In the process of adjusting my coilovers, corner weighting and alignment for the upcoming season, I recall a post a while ago about "tightening" or adjusting the/manual steering racks to remove unwanted play and to sharpen up the steering. A search has not helped. Can anyone discuss doing this adjustment.? How to.? and how to diagnose if the rack needs adjustment.

I have a 93 EG without power steering. lowered on Progress C coilovers to approximately 5.75 inches from the jack points to the ground on 15 inch wheels. TIA.

 

rodney should be able to answer this one for you...

 

George,
I think you are thinking of the discussion on changing out the bushing on the rack Andy Holis started and did a nice write up on how he fixed it. Here is the link:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=776901

Eric

 

Eric:

Thanks Eric...Good info. I also was interested in the pinion preload adjustment but you have also got me thinking I need to replace that bushing as well.

Anyone have info on the pinion preload adjustment.? Is this in the Factory service manual.?

 

George,

Yes, it is in the FSM, at least it is for the CRX. I would have to assume it is the same for your civic.

 

Eric:

Thanks again. I'll look for the pinion adjustment in the FSM. I assume its got to be in the steering rack related area.

BTW, when are we going to do the STS2 CRX.. Its time for yours to come out of retirement.

 

It is coming out of retirement, but not in ST, I am too addicted to the flywheel, hoosiers, and quaiffe. I am going to be running it locally in CSP this season.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crosser &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is coming out of retirement, but not in ST, I am too addicted to the flywheel, hoosiers, and quaiffe. I am going to be running it locally in CSP this season.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hot diggity...its about time. I think for old time sake you should throw on the old Thermal muffler..'xcuse me noise chamber.

 

I have been wanting to try adjusting my steering rack for some time, and I think you are thinking of the same thing.

There is a large (40mm I think) nut on the steering rack itself, and a smaller adjustment nut in the middle.

Honda sells a specific tool, but I will probably just end up welding one out of small lengths of steel.

Supposidly you loosen the nut outer large nut, then tighten the inner one.

 

I don't think my fillings could handle it any more. Besides, I think half the DC region is now hearing impaired from when I use to run it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StyleTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have been wanting to try adjusting my steering rack for some time, and I think you are thinking of the same thing.

There is a large (40mm I think) nut on the steering rack itself, and a smaller adjustment nut in the middle.

Honda sells a specific tool, but I will probably just end up welding one out of small lengths of steel.

Supposidly you loosen the nut outer large nut, then tighten the inner one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup that's what I heard about 'Teg. I will look in the FSM when I get home. See what it says about the tool and procedure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crosser &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think my fillings could handle it any more. Besides, I think half the DC region is now hearing impaired from when I use to run it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Huh...WHAT'D Y'SAY..?? YOUR GONNA HAVE TO SPEAK UP..(Thermal ringing in ears)..

 

george, it's in section 17-33 in the FSM. FSM says to tighten the guide screw to 2.9lb-ft then back off roughly 20 degrees. the locknut should only be torqued to 18lb-ft, so it shouldn't be too hard to get off/on. have fun getting a wrench in there though. i've looked at it a few times but i've given up on adjusting it each time.

nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">george, it's in section 17-33 in the FSM. FSM says to tighten the guide screw to 2.9lb-ft then back off roughly 20 degrees. the locknut should only be torqued to 18lb-ft, so it shouldn't be too hard to get off/on. have fun getting a wrench in there though. i've looked at it a few times but i've given up on adjusting it each time.

nate</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Nate...I bet I'll give up on it too.

 

George,

Jeff and I actually did this once. Use the spring scale to measure steering resistance with the wheels elevated like the pic shows.

A little adjustment, does nothing. But go too far and "Holy ****!" The steering either feels like it's going to fall apart in your hands OR it's so tight that turning a Peterbuilt without P/S on flat tires will seem easier.

Trust me, something like that really doesn't go out of whack. Leave it be.

Anthony "Mario" Crea

 

I just adjusted mine... What I did was have the car jacked up and well supported with the wheels ON. Then I stuck the key in the ignition so the steering wheel wouldn't lock. After that I adjusted the 14mm nut, then grabbed the tire (from underneath the car) and rotated it.

I first tighted the nut down so the rack was too tight. Then I loosened it up until the movement in the tires was still firm but it didn't sound like the rack shaft was "scraping" or had too much resistence. If you go too loose then your steering wheel turn way too easily with the car in the air. The steering wheel should turn easily but shouldn't have a "clank" when you go back and forth.

I'm not explaining it very well but I did my best. If you have the specs infront of you it should be much easier.

 

Thanks Anthony and rice, I probably will err on the side of lazy and jusst leave it. I looked at it last night and its too cold the space is too cramped and I don't feel like it..