Spring rate setup question
I have been autoxing for the past couple of years on my tein basic dampers. They are not the best choice, but they are actually not to bad at all. The thing is I bought them before I really got into autox. This year I started using R-comp tires, it helps me compete in SM. I think with the stickier rubber and the fact that my car is no longer a daily driver I am ready to step up to some stiffer springs. I am also going to be doing some HPDE events this year so I want a setup that is going to be pretty stable at higher speeds as well as lower autox speeds. I know I am asking the impossible, but I want the best comprimise. The stiffer springs are to hold me over until next year, when I think PIC is comming out with a setup for my car. I am driving a EM2 with a Kswap (a bit more weight in the front). My current setup and potential options are as follows:
Spring rate/Stroke
Basics that are on the car now:
Front-6k/118mm
Rear-8k/90mm
Option #1
Front-9k/111mm
Rear-14k/82mm
Option #2
Front-10k/110mm
Rear-14k/82mm
Option #3
Front-9k/111mm
Rear-12k/84mm
I thought maybe someone could help me look at my options and come to a conclusion as to what may work best for what I want.
Spring rate/Stroke
Basics that are on the car now:
Front-6k/118mm
Rear-8k/90mm
Option #1
Front-9k/111mm
Rear-14k/82mm
Option #2
Front-10k/110mm
Rear-14k/82mm
Option #3
Front-9k/111mm
Rear-12k/84mm
I thought maybe someone could help me look at my options and come to a conclusion as to what may work best for what I want.
I don't think that you do http://picperformance.com/stor...t=192, I know I checked at some point earlier in the year and whoever responed to my email said that they would be out next year. Anyway I am looking at installing a quaif and rebuilding a tranny this year, so it will have to wait until next if it is out, unless you guys will hook me up with a set to test out
.
Since you guys have obviously tested these things time and time again, do you think you could help me select some springs that will hold me over until I install PICs next year??
.Since you guys have obviously tested these things time and time again, do you think you could help me select some springs that will hold me over until I install PICs next year??
Well what setup were you looking for? The only coilover product that we've been working on that will not be released for a while are the remote-reservoir coilovers. If I were you, I wouldn't hold my breath for those unfortunately.
As far as springs, I'm not sure what to tell you. Firstly, are you positive those are your current rates? Secondly, whats the car doing now that you think needs improvement?
As far as springs, I'm not sure what to tell you. Firstly, are you positive those are your current rates? Secondly, whats the car doing now that you think needs improvement?
I am looking for the springs for the type S/01-04 Si/01-05 civic chasis.
Right now I just think that if I went stiffer it would hold a bit better. Honestly the car is pretty neutral, just a bit unpredictive at times. The times that are the worse is under hard braking, which I think can be worked out by putting a more aggresive pad on the front. I just feel now that a stiffer setup would provide better cornering traction. Most of the guys with my setup that are serious are using some INSANE springs on the rear, as in 1400+lb springs. IMO this would create something that is way to unstable, which is why I am thinking about a more balanced setup.
Right now I just think that if I went stiffer it would hold a bit better. Honestly the car is pretty neutral, just a bit unpredictive at times. The times that are the worse is under hard braking, which I think can be worked out by putting a more aggresive pad on the front. I just feel now that a stiffer setup would provide better cornering traction. Most of the guys with my setup that are serious are using some INSANE springs on the rear, as in 1400+lb springs. IMO this would create something that is way to unstable, which is why I am thinking about a more balanced setup.
just wondering how auto xing your car is. Next season im looking to auto x and hpde my ek coupe with a k20a, with a simmilar setup as yours. So since you have first hand experience, id like to here how competetive it is, and everything. By the way ill be watching this thread to see what spring rates you go with, and please what ever you choose, post your thoughts.
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It works out pretty well, SM is a difficult class with whatever you are driving. At local events I can stay competative, but you deffinately need R-comp. tires. I am putting in a LSD this year and I think it will make a world of difference. To compete at the national level, I think I would have to make it a dedicated autox car, and install a supercharger or a fairly aggressive cam setup.
Do you honestly think you need more power? if so why? Even with lsd i cant picture needing or wanting around 300whp from a supercharger on such tight courses, cams i can understand though. Even though i am just going to begin autoxing, i think i am going to jump straight to a r comp, contrary to what people say to do, just because i picture me spinning and spinning comeing out of turns on street tires. So your class is street modified? What do you think i would be placed in running r comps, k20ar, and a fully gutted interior with maybe a roll cage/roll bar? BTW im very interested in what spring setup u go with, because i am looking to not only doing competetive auto x, but i also want to do some hpde, so i also want something stable at high speeds. Also what are the specs on you cars suspension now, as far as sway bars and everything go?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chairwitharmrests »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even though i am just going to begin autoxing, i think i am going to jump straight to a r comp, contrary to what people say to do, just because i picture me spinning and spinning comeing out of turns on street tires. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't you think that if everyone suggests you not use R comps your first time out, theres some reasoning behind that?
R comps will hide your mistakes, and you should just try it out first and see how it goes. If your worried about spinning coming out of turns just be lighter on the throttle, roll into it. Once you get fast on street tires, then when you go to r comps you'll do great.
bgoetz, I'd swtich to the 10/14 of your three choices. A 9 kg is still pretty soft up front, and if you take it to hpde you might enjoy the slightly stiffer spring. The 10/14 stagger works pretty good on the track. What sway bar are you running?
Don't you think that if everyone suggests you not use R comps your first time out, theres some reasoning behind that?
R comps will hide your mistakes, and you should just try it out first and see how it goes. If your worried about spinning coming out of turns just be lighter on the throttle, roll into it. Once you get fast on street tires, then when you go to r comps you'll do great.
bgoetz, I'd swtich to the 10/14 of your three choices. A 9 kg is still pretty soft up front, and if you take it to hpde you might enjoy the slightly stiffer spring. The 10/14 stagger works pretty good on the track. What sway bar are you running?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chairwitharmrests »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Even though i am just going to begin autoxing, i think i am going to jump straight to a r comp, contrary to what people say to do, just because i picture me spinning and spinning comeing out of turns on street tires. So your class is street modified? What do you think i would be placed in running r comps, k20ar, and a fully gutted interior with maybe a roll cage/roll bar? </TD></TR></TABLE>
With the fully gutted interior you will be in a Modified class, I think E-mod, someone correct me if I am wrong. Anyway those modified classes are for full blown race cars, aloth of times with chasis setups that are not close to factory (i.e. suspension mounting points altered, etc.) If you do not gut the interior, and just remove the back seats and all associated equiptment (if the side pannels are not attached to the seats you cannot remove them) you will be in SM. I personnaly would put the cage in with the interior in cutting where you need to and just remove the rear seats to stay in SM.
While R-comps add grip they will not help if you apply more throttle while still having to much steering input comming out of a corner. Anotherwords if you are going to burn up street tires by spinning comming out of corners it will be similar with R-compounds, it will just be more expensive and destroy the tire faster. You just can't apply more % throttle than you are willing to give up in steering input.
With the fully gutted interior you will be in a Modified class, I think E-mod, someone correct me if I am wrong. Anyway those modified classes are for full blown race cars, aloth of times with chasis setups that are not close to factory (i.e. suspension mounting points altered, etc.) If you do not gut the interior, and just remove the back seats and all associated equiptment (if the side pannels are not attached to the seats you cannot remove them) you will be in SM. I personnaly would put the cage in with the interior in cutting where you need to and just remove the rear seats to stay in SM.
While R-comps add grip they will not help if you apply more throttle while still having to much steering input comming out of a corner. Anotherwords if you are going to burn up street tires by spinning comming out of corners it will be similar with R-compounds, it will just be more expensive and destroy the tire faster. You just can't apply more % throttle than you are willing to give up in steering input.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chairwitharmrests »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> So since you have first hand experience, id like to here how competetive it is, and everything. By the way ill be watching this thread to see what spring rates you go with, and please what ever you choose, post your thoughts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If this will be your first season auto-xing you will find out it has more to do with the driver than the car. Best to go in a bone stock car fist. I made the mistake of going out with my buddys evo 8. I got a lot better once i started driving a slower car.
If this will be your first season auto-xing you will find out it has more to do with the driver than the car. Best to go in a bone stock car fist. I made the mistake of going out with my buddys evo 8. I got a lot better once i started driving a slower car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suprmods »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
bgoetz, I'd swtich to the 10/14 of your three choices. A 9 kg is still pretty soft up front, and if you take it to hpde you might enjoy the slightly stiffer spring. The 10/14 stagger works pretty good on the track. What sway bar are you running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am running the stock sway up front and a H&R 22mm rear sway. I like your idea of the 10/14 combination. You don't think the 14s in the rear are going to be to stiff for the track do you, should I back down to 12s??
I know some of you guys track the type S, what spring rates to you guys find works best??
bgoetz, I'd swtich to the 10/14 of your three choices. A 9 kg is still pretty soft up front, and if you take it to hpde you might enjoy the slightly stiffer spring. The 10/14 stagger works pretty good on the track. What sway bar are you running?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am running the stock sway up front and a H&R 22mm rear sway. I like your idea of the 10/14 combination. You don't think the 14s in the rear are going to be to stiff for the track do you, should I back down to 12s??
I know some of you guys track the type S, what spring rates to you guys find works best??
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