BryanSprinkel

I've finally talked pop's into stiffer springs. Is there anyone in hear that has experience using 500 front, and 700 rear on an ITR. Right now we're using 400 front, 500 rear and it doesn't seem to be stiff enough. The car is still driven to and from the track, and occasionally on the weekends, so I don't want to go crazy with rates.

We are using revalved Koni's in the rear and off the shelf Koni's in the front, so 550 is probably as high as we want to go in the front.

Anyone recommend anything different?

500 - 600 ?
500 - 700 ?
550 - 700 ?
550 - 800 ?

Thanks!

ghettoracer

my 2 cents, FWIW.

on the rear, depending on tolerance, 750 or maybe 800 lbs/" is the limit for the back. we setup vtecvoodoo's eg6 with 600/800. how does that feel for the street ryan? IMO above about 600/800, the car will need a good cage. otherwise it is flexing a bit and the chassis absorbs a lot of the rates...

wai's car was like 20/18 kg/mm or something but it was obviously way too much for the non caged chassis.

YMMV.

krshultz

Bryan, I already spoke to George on AIM a bit about this, but anyway...

1. Which revalve spec did you go with? I got SPSS3 (the highest available for a single adjustable KONI yellow) and am good to 1200lbs. Apparently you guys are on the one just below that. Certainly talk to Lee but I'd guess 550/800 is a good place to be.

2. I ran 600lb rear springs on OTS KONIs in the rear of my car for a year and a half, they held up to it..underdamped though. I only know that it was underdamped now that I've got the revalve, and it's like...so THAT's what "not enough shock" feels like.

3. I've got two spare front Konis sitting in the garage that I"m looking to unload...2 seasons on them. Perfect candidate for a shortening.

My car is currently 600/1000. I've raced it once (didn't do well, but the car felt fantastic) and autocrossed it once (car was again fantastic). With the revalved shocks damping the thing, it's not near as wild as you'd imagine.

VTEConly

People get away with 500-600lb spring rates on OTS Konis in the rear, for a little while, because each corner in the rear only weighs 450-500lbs. I just got my GSR cornerweighted and in the rear, one corner was around 480 and the other like 460.

Wai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhettoRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wai's car was like 20/18 kg/mm or something but it was obviously way too much for the non caged chassis.</TD></TR></TABLE>

F20K R16K actually.
Honestly I'm not yet experienced enough to feel the excessive flex on the chassis. The car actually felt pretty good to me. But I've already contacted someone on this board who is selling an Autopower 6-pt cage. Hope the deal would go through. Then I'd start getting harness and full bucket seat.

RR98ITR

Wai,

If you bang some curbing in a fast 3rd or 4th gear corner you ought to be able to feel the steering column move around enough to really catch your attention. My cage cut that way down, but still when I'm just moving the car around on uneven surfaces I can put my fingers up between the halo and the top and feel flex.

Scott, who's glad you're doing the 6-point, seat, harness thing...

6ghatch

On my EK chassis with an Autopower 4pt rollbar I'm running Tein RE's with 10kg front (559lbs.) and 14kg rear (783lbs.) I've run this at VIR full, Lime Rock, and Summit Point and find it neutral to loose but easy to handle on slow to medium speed corners. As the speeds increase the car feels quite a bit looser so be ready. I'm still a bit timid on turns like SP T4, VIR Hog-pen, ect.

Jaker

A bolt in cage will not help you guys much (if at all). It needs to be welded in, and braced to the chassis around the top part of the cage (if the rules allow it).