dose anyone know of a diy on building a splitter i want one but dont know where and how to mount it or cut it out

 

http://www.specialprojectsms.com

look in "technical".

 

search under my user name, i did a little write up a while back

 

There's a complete story in the November issue of Modified Mag of how Andrew from Auto Analyser Racing and I built a front splitter for me EG hatch, but here's a link to my own site that'll at least show you the basic steps in photos (no real instructions). In the February issue of Modified I'll be covering how we mount the splitter to the chassis as well as discussing some other aero bits and pieces I've attached to my EG.

http://homepage.mac.com/planet....html

If you can't find a November issue of Modified and want to check it out, shoot me an e-mail and I'll try to mail you a copy of that issue.

Here's a few pics of the car with the splitter in place, along with the C-West front bumper and J's Racing rear wing...

 

Very nice work shown on your web site. I would like a copy of the Modified mag article as I want to make the same type of splitter as you did for my ITR. Send me your e-mail address via an IM so I can contact you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's a complete story in the November issue of Modified Mag of how Andrew from Auto Analyser Racing and I built a front splitter for me EG hatch, but here's a link to my own site that'll at least show you the basic steps in photos (no real instructions). In the February issue of Modified I'll be covering how we mount the splitter to the chassis as well as discussing some other aero bits and pieces I've attached to my EG.

http://homepage.mac.com/planet....html

If you can't find a November issue of Modified and want to check it out, shoot me an e-mail and I'll try to mail you a copy of that issue.

Here's a few pics of the car with the splitter in place, along with the C-West front bumper and J's Racing rear wing...
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow wow good job! Where'd you get the materials? Local? Has the bottom rubbed the ground....if so how is it holding up?

I feel like making something now lol

good stuff


Modified by 89civicdx at 12:49 AM 11/15/2007

 

That's really nicely made, but if you're serious about transferring that load to your chassis mounting it to the bumper isn't a great way to do it. Because it's urethane or whatever it's going to deflect alot more than mounting it to the frame.

There is a convenient hard point where the tow hooks mount, you can make some L-plates that replace the tow hook mount and bolt the splitter to the bottom of the L-plate. I would even consider attaching turnbuckles and some rod ends to the front of the splitter and attach them to the bumper support to keep it from deflecting under load. Remember, sheet carbon isn't that great under bending loads!

 

who said anything about mounting it to the bumper? That would be a complete waste of a good splitter. We welded on four posts to the frame rail down each side of the engine bay using square bar and have a slightly larger diameter square bar post fixed to the splitter so it slips over the posts welded to the frame rails. With then run a bolt thru each mated pair of square bar posts to secure them, resulting a a splitter that's directly attached to the chassis. We also have some high density foam along the underside of the bumper cover to seal it to the splitter, plus I cover up the seam with racer tape to ensure a good seal.

All supplies were bought by Auto Analyser Racing from Canada Composites in Toronto if I'm not mistaken. The kelvar outer skin has rubbed on the track and it's proven to be extremely tough. As you may know, kevlar is a lot more puncture-resistant than carbon fiber (which is why it's used in bulletproof vests), so it's better able to deflect the blows from rumble strips/alligator stripes/curbs at the track than is CF. It's surface is very durable and slippery, where carbon is quite prone to grabbing tha pavement and getting torn up. The only downside to using kevlar is that it doesn't like to take a shape as easily as the CF and it doesn't like to bonded to CF all that much, but so far our splitter still looks like new after a half dozen track days including a pretty dramatic off at VIR in the uphill esses.

descartes, I'll shoot you an IM now...

 

Mad props on the splitter. Very good work. By the way, could you feel a difference on track? I also race a EG in ITA/H4 but I'm running with nothing.

 

The overall aero package I added to the EG this year definitely helped lower my lap times at my "home" tracks where I'm able to really feel the difference the most due to track experience on these circuits. The combo of the splitter, the C-West body kit, and the J's rear wing increased my mid-corner MPH a lot around Mosport and made this short wheelbase car feel a lot more stable on corner entry, something that really helps the confidence around a very high speed circuit like Mosport that has a bunch of big sweeping corners with elevation and camber changes. I'll see if I can overlay some track data from my G2X from last year and this year around Mosport so you can see the difference the aero made.

 

Andrew and I are going to use the template you guys created to build a splitter for my dc2 shortly. This will be in addition to the wing I've budgeted for next year. Hopefully there won't be too many modifications to be made for the splitter to fit. I'm wondering if the addtional downforce is substantial enough to overcome some of the tender spring problems I encountered this year?

I never really looked at your car closely this year. Is you bumper cover attached to the splitter and if so, how easily do the pieces come off so that you can load the car onto your trailer? I was thinking of attaching the bumper cover/splitter to the car with dzus fasteners to make removal and attachment quick and easy. Obviously I'd still include the frame rail posts like you did to ensure the frame takes the load.

 

nope, the bumper cover and splitter aren't connected. In fact, I take the bumper cover off first just so the splitter is easy to remove, since the bolts that secure the posts together are easier to get at this way. The only "connection" between the bumper and splitter is the racer tape I run along the seam where they press up against each other, just to ensure a good seal.

Dzus fasteners for the bumper cover is a great idea. Wanted to do that myself but never got around to it, so we're just using stock fasteners for now.

Overall it's a bit more work before I can put the car on the trailer since now I have to jack up the front of the car and remove the front bumper cover and splitter, but it's worth the effort given that to go fast at Mosport you need downforce! We got down into the 33's and that was with no testing time at all on the new suspension.

I doubt the aero will fix the tender spring problem. FYI at VIR we ran a long main spring and no tender spring and the car was much improved. So I think the trick for us will be go with a single spring setup. This is what Kensai uses and they're not slow The crazy thing is that with the Motons they seem to like A LOT more spring rate than my old Tein RA's could handle, so next year we'll have to play around a lot with spring rates to find the sweet spot.

 

Thanks Maxi - good feedback about the tenders.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> We got down into the 33's and that was with no testing time at all on the new suspension.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have no doubt you will be A LOT faster once the suspension is sorted.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
FYI at VIR we ran a long main spring and no tender spring and the car was much improved. So I think the trick for us will be go with a single spring setup. This is what Kensai uses and they're not slow The crazy thing is that with the Motons they seem to like A LOT more spring rate than my old Tein RA's could handle, so next year we'll have to play around a lot with spring rates to find the sweet spot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Were you running 7" springs? I've been thinking of throwing my 1,250 springs up front and putting 1,700 in the rear since my front would dive substantially under hard braking.

 

Dave,
Quick question. I don't see any brake ducks on your car. Do you have brake cooling? I'm asking because a lot of track here in the Southeast, you need cooling in order for your brakes to last the whole session.

Also, what kind of rear sway bar are you running. I'm probably going to run the ASR bar with a JDM 23 bar. It sounds like the best for the money on our cars.

Thanks for the info

 

Maxi, what kind of times were you running at VIR, just out of curiousity?

And TPB, 1700lb rear springs on an Integra seem absolutely ludicrous. What shocks are you using?

 

AC, yeah I think the main springs were 7'' but let me double check that. When I order up some more mains, I'll order you some too. I think 1200 front 1700 rear is a good starting point on the Motons with our cars. I'll probably end up with something similar...maybe a bit softer given my car's weight. On my old Tein RA setup I would never dream of running this much spring, but the Motons seem to like a lot more spring rate that we're used to thinking about with more consumer-oriented shocks. You'd think with this much spring rate the car would feel like a cement truck, but with the Motons it's still really compliant and composed over big bumps and curbs. I'm telling you man, Motons change everything! Haha...

BGRacing, no duct on the brakes at the moment. The tracks I run on aren't that hard on brakes and being in the northeast means we don't have the severe heat you guys do down south. I've got AP calipers and 12'' rotors up front along with Hawk DTC-60's and Motul brake fluid and never have any issues with brake fade. Out back we run stock ITR calipers with a very mild pad since the rear tends to lock up really easily if we go with a real race pad...presumably because the hatch is very light in the rear, especially under braking.

Swaybar choice on my car varies from track to track. On tighter tracks where I want more rotation, I run JDM 23mm but at Mosport I run no bar at all (but I think for '08 that'll change since the Motons are so composed). I also have the ASM rear subframe brace dealio and would like to try one of their custom hollow bars at some point to see how they work, or maybe a custom Hotchkis blade swaybar setup with cockpit adjustability

At VIR I did a 2:10.6 or .7 in practice, went a tenth slower during the actual Time Attack (GT Live) because I scared the crap out of myself going off in the uphill esses I've only got maybe 20-30 laps of experience at VIR though, so I'm sure the car with an experienced VIR driver would go much faster. I'd wager it's good for low 2:09's or maybe a bit more if we really got the car dialed in for that track, which is damn fun but also really challenging from a setup and driving standpoint IMO. Love VIR...so much fun, so much speed to be found in the rollercoaster section down the hill, that deceptively fast blind apex downhill lefthander after the big esses, man what a track!

 

That's pretty impressive. Is there a page anywhere covering the development of the car? I looked through that link above, but that looks like just pics.

 

Oh man, I'd need more than a page to cover the thousand stages of "development" this car has gone through. I bought it back in '99 to be a autox/track car and its slowly evolved over the years to the point it's at today (and there's still lots left to do!). Currently I use the car strictly for the Canadian Touring Car Championship and some Time Attacks since that's good magazine type stuff

It's had stock D-series, built D-series, stock B18C's, built B18C's, stock K20, mildly built K20, and this year we built a monster K24 for it but blew that up before VIR so we ran a stock bottom end K24 with Skunk2 cams instead. With that monster K24 the car would definitely run sub 2:10's...maybe 2:08's! Who knows...hope to find out next year!

If you want I'll post up a current spec sheet for the car.

 

Yeah, a spec sheet would be great.

 

Ok, here you go Trogdor...

'07 VIR GT Live specs:
'93 Civic CX hatchback
C-West N1 body kit
JDM NSX 'Lime Green Metallic' paint by Discovery Auto Collision
custom Auto Analyser Racing carbon-kelvar front splitter
J's Racing/Voltex rear wing (requires a JDM SiR hatch spoiler for mounting)
8-point roll cage (2150 lbs without driver)
K24A2 engine, stock block, Skunk2 Stage 1 cams
customized (moved the ports) Fluidyne DC2 aluminum radiator
K20A2 transmission with 5.0 CRV final drive and JDM ITR 4,5,6 gears
Exedy Hyper Single clutch kit including chromoly flywheel
Axle System driveshafts
HAsport mounts
Hybrid Racing wiring harness
shorty intake with bigass K&N cone filter
DC Sports 'K-swap' header
3'' Vibrant cat-back
DC2 5-lug conversion
AP Racing two-piston front calipers and 12'' rotors and Hawk DTC-60 pads
DC2 ITR rear brakes, El Cheapo rear pads
Goodridge SS brake lines
Motul brake fluid
SSR Competition 17x8'' wheels with 235/40-17 rubber (Toyo RA-1, R888 or BFG R1)
Moton triple adjustable shocks
Eibach ERS springs
Skunk2 front upper camber-adjustable arms front and rear
ASR rear subframe brace/sway bar system with 23mm JDM ITR rear bar
AiM Pista dash/data acq. (used to run a MSD G2X, which is an excellent product too).

Over the winter I'll be installing:
Built K24 that'll be good for 275whp or so, I hope
Vibrant CAI with a BPi velocity stack and K&N filter with a custom enclosure
Shock sensors so we can set up the Motons more scientifically
Revised Eibach spring rates
Orijin front camber control spherical bearings/bushings
J's Racing roll center adjusters
PCi rear trailing arm spherical bearings
Adjustable rear sway bar and a ITR front sway bar
redoing the front half of the roll cage to make it safer/stronger
redoing the seat mounting system and lower the steering column for a better seating/driving postion
Some cleaning up of the interior with carbon trim and such, plus maybe a carbon hatch and doors to take more weight out of the car.
It never ends!!!

 

Yep, sounds pretty nice Strong Bad

Couple questions related to your setup:
-Have you considered a better header? I know the K-swap DC Sports one is a bit of a bottleneck, I'd think even moreso on a built K24.

-Just FYI, the CF hatch only loses you about 1 lb, probably not worth the $300. If you pull out the latching mechanism and use some other kind of securing thing (you know what I'm talking about I'm sure, a variety available from any race parts company), you'll get the stock hatch down to almost within that pound. Pick up a stripped stock one for yourself, it's surprisingly light.
&lt;--- Was briefly considering a CF hatch for the same reason, then found that out.

 

Would love to get a blingy HiTech header or something like that, but the DC header was good for almost 280whp on our built K24, so I'm not actually convinced it's all that much of a bottleneck. Theory was that the DC header would be a bottleneck at around 230whp when it first came out, but there really wasn't any sign of it holding our big K24 back. I'm sure a better header might pick up some power, but who would have thought we'd make 278whp with this little $250 header?

Interesting that the CF hatch saves so little weight. Good to know! Thanks for the tip.

 

if the splitter is coming into contact with the track surface often have you thought about how have the solid mount system you have would led to cracking and braking of the splitter?

The championship auidi team (descartesfool has pictures) along with a lot of other teams have a soft/flexible mount system because there splitters often come into contact with the track surface.

 

Nice list of parts. you should add some $ signs to each line. It might make you feel better!

That is a very good time at Mosport since it is only about 3 seconds off of the best ever World Challenge Touring Car pole by P.D. Cunningham in his Nissan a few years back (1:29.9 I think). Their WCTC cars are a few hundred pounds heavier than yours, but it is amazing how fast you can make that little Honda go!

 

Special Projects Motorsports & MLR Motorsports have a complete splitter kit for sale. It is very user friendly it can be removed from the car in less then 2 minutes.

http://specialprojectsms.com/i...ID=30