I own a 94 GSR that i want to run a 600lb f and 800lb r spring rates what kinda shock will keep up with this setup?

 

You could revalve used Konis to handle that spring rate. That would be the cheapest. GC Advance Designs, also. What rules are you governed by?

 

I run SM @ SCCA events

 

I use revalved Konis. I know one teg that had success with Advanced Designs with those rates. Just out of curiosity, how'd you come up with those rates?

Some pics of my car in action:





Good luck in SM.

Mike

 

looks good

[QUOTE=RacerMike]I use revalved Konis. I know one teg that had success with Advanced Designs with those rates. Just out of curiosity, how'd you come up with those rates?

I called GC and asked and thats what the said I should run. what's your opinion? please help!!! I finished 1st in SM last year and know there is alot of better drives and cars coming this year. I felt the car could handle better with stiffer spring rates since I use a H&R cup kit now which use a progressive spring rate (H&R sport springs), they do use a Koni shock which I though of revalving to handle the higher rates or use AD shocks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondamanwill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks good

[QUOTE=RacerMike]I use revalved Konis. I know one teg that had success with Advanced Designs with those rates. Just out of curiosity, how'd you come up with those rates?

I called GC and asked and thats what the said I should run. what's your opinion? please help!!! I finished 1st in SM last year and know there is alot of better drives and cars coming this year. I felt the car could handle better with stiffer spring rates since I use a H&R cup kit now which use a progressive spring rate (H&R sport springs), they do use a Koni shock which I though of revalving to handle the higher rates or use AD shocks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

hows your money situation?
it might be more cost effective to sell the whole shabang and buy someones blown konis, then have those revalved(which will repair them and revalve them at the same time).
if your thinking about running linear springs, i'm guessign your thinking of 2.5id race springs?
those wont mount to the cupkit's, you'll need a threaded body coilover with a flat springperch.

 

At this point money is not a problem, being competitive is.

 

CRXLee on this board works for Koni and is usually more than willing to discuss shocks. I know Koni has quite a few options and they've had a lot of success at all levels of racing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondamanwill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At this point money is not a problem, being competitive is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If money is not a problem, then just go and get some Penskes or Motons.

 

I would be the other teg owner with those rates... 650F 800R. I used Advanced Design Shocks and was very impressed with the shocks performance. If my driving was as good as these shocks I would have come home with a trophy in Topeka this past year. In hindsight... I think you will be better off with 600 up front than the 650 I ran. My only complaint about them is the minimal compression adjustments (only 3).

Revalved Konis work well. I ran those for a season as well. I think I got a bum deal on those when I had them revalved at True Choice. Felt good but all four were blown in 6 months.

Some really small pictures...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondamanwill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At this point money is not a problem, being competitive is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If money isn't an issue get the Motons; they have a direct bolt-on for the GSR from between $4300 and $4900 depending on if you want double or triple adjustables. If I had the free cash I'd get the trips....

http://www.hrpworld.com/cfdocs...d=145

Mike

 

I think Moton are over kill for what I'm doing. autocrossing and Road events.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CRXLee on this board works for Koni and is usually more than willing to discuss shocks. I know Koni has quite a few options and they've had a lot of success at all levels of racing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can I just send props to CRXLee. I talked to him today and he really help me alot. I am going to send my shocks in to have them revalved to the 600/800 spring rates I'll be running. Now I just have to deal with GC, wish me luck.

 

I've had the re-valved Koni's and GC's for 2 years with no problems. I figure about 16,000 street miles along with autox and driving schools. I ended up with 800's on the front to prevent bottoming or using the bumpstops.

RacerMike, your name says "the original DSP Integra" When did you start running yours? I've had mine in DSP since spring '00, just curious.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mohudsolo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had the re-valved Koni's and GC's for 2 years with no problems. I figure about 16,000 street miles along with autox and driving schools. I ended up with 800's on the front to prevent bottoming or using the bumpstops.

RacerMike, your name says "the original DSP Integra" When did you start running yours? I've had mine in DSP since spring '00, just curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Feb of 2000 I took it to its first event in DSP trim at the Ft. Myers Pro Solo. Its more to distinguish between myself and the other BLACK integras that look like mine in race trim....freaking copy cats

Mike

 

Is this spring rate, 600 Front/ 800 Rear streetable?

 

I would say so, at least on a Honda. Coming from a WRX with 8k front/6k rear my car with 400f/500r springs feels downright cushy.

It won't be fun on bad roads, you probably have to be a certain kind of person to put up with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RacerMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Feb of 2000 I took it to its first event in DSP trim at the Ft. Myers Pro Solo. Its more to distinguish between myself and the other BLACK integras that look like mine in race trim....freaking copy cats

Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah.. I can't stand that guy either... what a jerk!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InfamousDC2FI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this spring rate, 600 Front/ 800 Rear streetable? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did it for 9 months. Wasn't too bad. Its much worse (less streetable) if your shocks are not properly valved.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiLooksStock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say so, at least on a Honda. Coming from a WRX with 8k front/6k rear my car with 400f/500r springs feels downright cushy.

It won't be fun on bad roads, you probably have to be a certain kind of person to put up with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you do realize that on a wrx with 8k/6k springs your wheel rates are only 448lb/in front and 336lb/in rear, right? compared to the civic/gsr with 600/800 which works out to around 260/440. for some reason i think a 3100lb car with 336lb/in rear springs _might_ ride a little softer then a 2400lb car with 440lb/in rear springs. just a hunch.

of course, dampers affect ride quality just as much as springs. unless both had the same dampers, subjective comparisons on ride quality would be difficult to quantify. and we haven't even covered sufficient bump travel and it's affects on ride quality...

nate - doesn't think dd'ing 800lb rear springs is too outrageous... unless it's february in Mass and the frost heaves are as tall as your car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Watkinsm3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did it for 9 months. Wasn't too bad. Its much worse (less streetable) if your shocks are not properly valved.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks For your opinion.

 

Yeah, I know about the difference in wheel rate, I was just being anecdotal for all our listeners out there in radio land.

 

this is off the top of my head buy i would say some revalved koni's. i have seen a lot of succesful stories about people in SM running koni's. but after reading a few of these stories, koni's getting blown after revalve, im not too sure i wanna revalve mine.

&lt;----- has had his for almost a year with no problems and autoXed daily

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toEknEEg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is off the top of my head buy i would say some revalved koni's. i have seen a lot of succesful stories about people in SM running koni's. but after reading a few of these stories, koni's getting blown after revalve, im not too sure i wanna revalve mine.

&lt;----- has had his for almost a year with no problems and autoXed daily </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard that across the board but the didn't have Koni revalve them

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toEknEEg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this is off the top of my head buy i would say some revalved koni's. i have seen a lot of succesful stories about people in SM running koni's. but after reading a few of these stories, koni's getting blown after revalve, im not too sure i wanna revalve mine.

&lt;----- has had his for almost a year with no problems and autoXed daily </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard that across the board but the didn't have Koni revalve them