Ok, im trying to replace my rotors with stock replacments, and i cannot remove the screws that are holding the rotor onto the hub
and tricks/suggestions?
Thanks
Joe

 

impact screw driver... or a drill

the screws are ~$0.50 each..... and are not reqired for the car to drive.

 

you need to get an impact driver. neat little tool that looks like a thick driver with assorted bits, that when you set going either tighten or loosen, and hit it with a hammer, it pushes the driver INTO the screw as well as TURN the screw so you dont strip it. if youve already stripped the screw, you can either use a screw extractor, or use a sharpened flat screwdriver or chisel and bang the screw radially to get it loose.

 

thanks for the help guys
ill give it a whirl later
(happy with pads and fluid for now )

 

Also shoot the little bastard with PB Blaster and let it soak.

Warren

 

i had this problem too. mine were quite rusted and the screw heads just crumpled. so i drilled the out and didn't replace them. i didn't think it was a big beal not replaing the screws. should i?
ps-hey warren, is that ur car in the background in grm this month on page 140?

 

Shouldn't be a problem with drilling the screws out. I know at least a couple of us have just left the screws out period. Makes rotor swapping a little easier. So long as the rotor doesn't get hung up on the hub when you're putting the wheel on, the force applied through the wheel by the lugnuts will keep the rotor positioned properly. Subaru follows the same philosophy on the WRX and probably a bunch of other models.

 

Hehe, yeah, that's me. I was supposed to have a bigger picture, but I guess they noticed the different mirrors or something

As for the screws, you can leave them out. Audi/VW doesn't use them, and they even use lug bolts, which makes life really hard when the rotor, hub, and wheel holes are all misaligned

I leave my screws in, but I coat it in antiseize. Even the angled area, which is usually a no-no for a fastener.

Warren

 

Yea I drilled my screws out....another stupid item Honda threw in to make the car more granny-proof. They are there so that when you are changing pads, the rotor dosent tilt and get in the way of the operation. It has never been a problem for me. If it is, all you have to do is screw on 2 lug nuts to hold the rotor in place while you change pads or whatever. Impact didnt work for me,,so I said SCREW IT!

 

lol i may just leave the screws out then.

 

that makes the screwdriver a bit harder to use.
it l00bs the gripping point and the screw driver slips out easier.

 

I use an impact driver along w/ PB Blaster. Haven't had it strip.

Warren

 

update: 2 days after the pad install i got my hands on an impact wrench, rotors came right off (one took a little gentle love from a mallet, but it came off)
i already like them better (dont know why)
anyway, i think there is 1 problem. it sounds like somthing is dragging on the rotor. like once a revolution. i think this is just the pad wearing onto the new rotor but any suggestions on what this is would be helpful
if it still happens a day or 2 from now ill pull the pads and see whats going on.
thanks

 

What pads did you install? I know with most race pads, especially P+ they drag like a mug...just happens. The wear is trivial as well when this happens.

 

axxis ultimate

 

if it persists, the rotors were not installed correctly and theyre not straight. say after 200 miles i would take them off, check the backside of the rotor and the hub surface for anything in the way. but at first it shouldnt be an issue since things are just bedding in.

 

thats what im thinking
because the braking on the car is FINE. its solid and smooth

 

How could you not install the rotors on straight.... the wheel wouldn't be on straight either.. and you would have MAJOR wobble...

check your pads make sure they are installed propelly in the channels.. and that lube was applied to the pins and the channels.. I also put some on the backing plate betweent the pad & backing plate.. this helps with squeel.


if you *wanted* you could check the run out on the rotors since they are new.. it should be damn near zero
.. but if they are warped you will feel the wobble in the steering

give them a day or two of breaking in.. and then check them


[Modified by Crazydave, 8:50 PM 6/24/2002]

 

its only take a couple hundredths to not be straight enough to hear dragging. wouldnt affect the wheel

 

well, looks like I noticed that thread a little late... oh well, in case it may help anybody:
what has worked VERY well for me in the past is to use the rounded end of a ball-peen hammer on the screw and whack the flat end with a BFH (Big Fu...ing Hammer; I use a 3lb sledge ). That will loosen up the thread and "break" them loose (not break them). The screw then comes out pretty easily with a screw driver. You might have to whack it 2 or 3 times. As empirical evidence that this works, one of my stock rotors had not been removed from the car since the factory installed it, and at 75,000 miles, I took it off in about3 minutes, using this trick on the rusted screw. Hammers rule.