Road Race engine builds
Do any of you guys do anything specific for road race engine builds that you might not do if you were doing street or drag engine builds?
I know its a really open ended question. I have done a few street builds before but never a looser road race build.
Didn't know if some things get more priority with these engines... like smoothing the casting on the interior walls of the engine or bearing coatings for example.
Matt
I know its a really open ended question. I have done a few street builds before but never a looser road race build.
Didn't know if some things get more priority with these engines... like smoothing the casting on the interior walls of the engine or bearing coatings for example.
Matt
Do any of you guys do anything specific for road race engine builds that you might not do if you were doing street or drag engine builds?
I know its a really open ended question. I have done a few street builds before but never a looser road race build.
Didn't know if some things get more priority with these engines... like smoothing the casting on the interior walls of the engine or bearing coatings for example.
Matt
I know its a really open ended question. I have done a few street builds before but never a looser road race build.
Didn't know if some things get more priority with these engines... like smoothing the casting on the interior walls of the engine or bearing coatings for example.
Matt
and you should shot peen everything...worth a few hp
What exactly are you shot peening? & HOW exactly is it worth ANY HP?
I can see shot peening Rods for strength, but then I would assume your running stock rods and then I would QUESTION, WHY ONCE AGAIN?
I see no HP gains physically possible.
Balancing the entire rotating assembly is something i do on ANY motor build for longevity, some people overlook this. As stated previously you build the motor for the class you want to run.
I can see shot peening Rods for strength, but then I would assume your running stock rods and then I would QUESTION, WHY ONCE AGAIN?
I see no HP gains physically possible.Balancing the entire rotating assembly is something i do on ANY motor build for longevity, some people overlook this. As stated previously you build the motor for the class you want to run.
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What exactly are you shot peening? & HOW exactly is it worth ANY HP?
I can see shot peening Rods for strength, but then I would assume your running stock rods and then I would QUESTION, WHY ONCE AGAIN?
I see no HP gains physically possible.
Balancing the entire rotating assembly is something i do on ANY motor build for longevity, some people overlook this. As stated previously you build the motor for the class you want to run.
I can see shot peening Rods for strength, but then I would assume your running stock rods and then I would QUESTION, WHY ONCE AGAIN?
I see no HP gains physically possible.Balancing the entire rotating assembly is something i do on ANY motor build for longevity, some people overlook this. As stated previously you build the motor for the class you want to run.
Building for reliability rather than max horsepower. Fine tuning and getting the most out of parts available for the class rules.
One 20 minute race is the same amount of run time as 100 12 second passes.
One 20 minute race is the same amount of run time as 100 12 second passes.
DAMIT ERIK! KEEP YOUR LIP SHUT!!!
Thats it tho. I've done all out 10/10ths builds and ran engines from jdm importers that were stone stock. i've had much better results with the stock ones. maybe one day once i get everything else figured out, i'll do another 10/10ths engine build knowing what i know now. but for now, throw an engine in with all the bolt ons and let it eat. i throw on a fresh oil pump, water pump and upgrade the valve train if im gonna rev it (9300 in this current engine).
Power isn't everything.
Thats it tho. I've done all out 10/10ths builds and ran engines from jdm importers that were stone stock. i've had much better results with the stock ones. maybe one day once i get everything else figured out, i'll do another 10/10ths engine build knowing what i know now. but for now, throw an engine in with all the bolt ons and let it eat. i throw on a fresh oil pump, water pump and upgrade the valve train if im gonna rev it (9300 in this current engine).
Power isn't everything.
Same as any other engine for the most part, we use alot more blue lock tight on things first off things tend to get loose due to more heat and vibration. Our engine of choice is D-series..ohh yes the underdog! a wrecking yard engine will only give about enough power to pass a clapped out Volvo or VW on the round'e round'ed. Unsuspecting to most you can make a D16 put out what a relatively stock GSR would put out. Here's a few things we do... Knife edge crank, looser bearings, oil cooler, ported oil pump, extra baffling in oil pan, higher final drives in the gear box. The tune is also a little more conservative, timing is a little less aggressive and fueling is just a little richer in high load areas. Overall alot of things are about the same when it comes to building a race car drag or road racing.. lots of time lots of money but lots more seat time if your road racing!!
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