Alright, I just installed a kill switch on the CRX. It's one of those nifty ones like this:



I installed the resistor on the "W" side of the kill switch. It's the one that's normally a closed circuit.

I hooked everything up today and tested it. I noticed that as soon as I kill the power with the switch the resistor gets extremely hot.

Is that normal? What's the dilly?

AJ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aahj &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, I just installed a kill switch on the CRX. It's one of those nifty ones like this:



I installed the resistor on the "W" side of the kill switch. It's the one that's normally a closed circuit.

I hooked everything up today and tested it. I noticed that as soon as I kill the power with the switch the resistor gets extremely hot.

Is that normal? What's the dilly?

AJ</TD></TR></TABLE>

No! Bad!



Resistor will get smokin' hot if it has 12V.

I hooked mine up without the resistor.

Big switch kills the battery
Small switch kills ignition, so the motor will die even with the alternator spinning. Legal enough, functional.

 

hey post some pics please

 

The big terminals (Normally closed) goes between your battery and the main fuse box.
1st little terminals (Normally closed) goes in line with the main ignition wire.
2nd little terminals (Normally open) is an added wire that goes from your alternator output to one side of the switch and the resister to ground on the other side.

when the switch is off: You are cutting the battery to car connection off, cutting the ignition off, and shorting the alternator to ground via the resistor.

To be completely legal you will also have to move the starter wire to go from the main fuse box battery input to starter, rather than from the battery to starter. This is because you should not have 12v anywhere in the car (even the starter), other than at the cut off switch if the switch is off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 577HondaPrelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The big terminals (Normally closed) goes between your battery and the main fuse box.
1st little terminals (Normally closed) goes in line with the main ignition wire.
2nd little terminals (Normally open) is an added wire that goes from your alternator output to one side of the switch and the resister to ground on the other side.

when the switch is off: You are cutting the battery to car connection off, cutting the ignition off, and shorting the alternator to ground via the resistor.

To be completely legal you will also have to move the starter wire to go from the main fuse box battery input to starter, rather than from the battery to starter. This is because you should not have 12v anywhere in the car (even the starter), other than at the cut off switch if the switch is off.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as he cuts the battery right at the "+" terminal of the battery, and kills ignition, it'll be legal. I didn't move any wires, just took the Battery + to the kill switch, and back to the original + lead. I tried it without cutting ignition, but that didn't work, the alternator did keep the car alive.

 

just as long as battery power goes though the switch before it go to the starter and the main fuse box you are legal. Some people leave the direct connection from the battery to the starter and if you get nit picky that is not legal per the rules because something in the car (the starter) still has electrical power. That's what I was trying to say before.

You don't really need to ground the alternator output via the resistor to cut the car off this is just to ensures you don't have any stray voltage potentials at any point in the car. This way if a tech inspector starts poking around with a volt meter, after cut off, you're 100% safe because every thing has a path to ground (other than the battery its self).

 

[Carlos Mancia retard voice]"Dun DaDahh"[/Carlos Mancia retard voice]

Fixed. Thanks for all the help. I'll have to post some pics soon because I think it looks pretty slick where I installed it.

AJ

 

I'm going through your old post AJ. I just bought a kill switch exactly like yours off of eBay. I installed it this weekend, wiring up just the + battery terminal. Have not tested it yet.
Post some pics!

 

here j00 go

 

 

read this and use the link to my 86 crx si wiring photos of schematics

http://itforum.improvedtouring...witch


Modified by tom91ita at 4:16 AM 3/28/2007

 

If my memory serves me right....(watch out...)....One of the main (race) techs at American Honda told me that you only need to interrupt the battery wire.....this proved true, when my battery wire came off, the car abruptly died.....also, if you should accidentally hook up your battery wrong, those fancy ones can fail internally, and end up not working at all, I know this because......oh well, good luck...........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrlegoman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I installed it this weekend, wiring up just the + battery terminal. Have not tested it yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It won't work!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOE BD-0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If my memory serves me right....(watch out...)....One of the main (race) techs at American Honda told me that you only need to interrupt the battery wire.....this proved true, when my battery wire came off, the car abruptly died.....also, if you should accidentally hook up your battery wrong, those fancy ones can fail internally, and end up not working at all, I know this because......oh well, good luck...........</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've run my car without battery connected. It didn't flinch, not one bit.

 

over on nasaforums.com in the HC section there is a really good write on how to do it.

I just had to re-do mine since it wasn't technically legal but would still kill the car when switched off.