Outrun

I actually do mine around every 7500 miles, since that's what Honda says in the owner's manual.

1158

I have trouble believing the HAMP filters I use on the teg would last that long, even without the engine being forced induction.

Suppose I could be wrong. I run my oil a little longer in the teg but I change the filter halfway through the oil cycle. I also have somewhere just south of 7 quarts in the teg.

...esteban

njn63

A lot of the Honda service schedules say to replace the filter every other oil change (or 1 year):

As long as you're buying a quality filter I wouldn't worry too much about it. Filter capacity is pretty high.

I'll have to talk to our filter guys tomorrow because they actually had a decent estimate for how much filter capacity is used during an average oil change interval. I remember the number was much lower than I expected.

...esteban

Every 40k he replaces the engine?

Outrun

I've forgotten to do oil changes a few times and have gone 10-12,000 miles (about 6 months of driving for me) without one. And I also use ARCO gas and my car has 445,xxx miles and counting.

I also found this, and it made me feel so unintelligent.
Understanding Engine Oil Bypass Filtration

Outrun

Understanding Engine Oil Bypass Filtration
Jeremy Wright, Noria Corporation
Tags: oil filters, contamination control
Machinery Lubrication (8/2012)



Is your engine’s oil filter performing to your expectation? Do you even know the performance of your filter? Most people don’t, and if they did, they would be appalled.

Some of the best full-flow engine filters on the market perform at a capture efficiency of 50 percent at a particle size of 10 microns and above. That’s a beta ratio of 2 for those of you keeping score, and these are considered “good” in terms of full-flow engine filtration. In comparison, a beta ratio of 1,000 would be considered “good” in terms of industrial hydraulic filtration. Why is there such a performance difference? The following factors contribute to the variance:

Physical Size

Often limited by physical size, engine oil filters are relatively small when compared to their industrial counterparts. This small size coincides with less filter media surface area through which to pass the lubricant.


65% of lubrication professionals use bypass filtration systems at their plant, based on a recent poll at machinerylubrication.com

Pressure Differential

The pressure differential is the change in pressure from the inlet to the outlet side of the filter. If the pressure differential is too high, a valve will open, allowing the oil to bypass the filter. All engine oil filters or heads are equipped with a bypass valve. This valve is needed so the engine does not become starved of oil as the filter clogs with debris.



The Beta Ratio Test

Oil filters can be tested in a variety of ways, but one of the most common methods is the beta ratio test. This test incorporates online particle counters positioned upstream and downstream of the filter, a continuous flow of test contaminant into the main system reservoir and oil flowing through the filter.

The beta ratio is calculated by dividing the number of particles larger than a certain size upstream of the filter by the number of particles of the same size downstream of the filter. For example, you may have a beta ratio or a beta sub 5 (meaning particles larger than 5 microns) equal to 10. This means 10 particles upstream of the filter would be divided by 1 downstream of the filter. In other words, for every 10 particles coming in, one gets through.

If you have a higher beta ratio, say a beta ratio of 100 or a beta sub 5 equal to 100, for every 100 particles coming into the filter larger than 5 microns, one makes its way through.

Every filter will have multiple beta ratios. There could be a beta ratio for 2 microns, 5 microns, 10 microns, 50 microns, 100 microns, etc.




You can also use the beta ratio to calculate capture efficiency, which is the average performance over the filter’s life, with the following formula:
((Beta – 1)/Beta) x 100
As an example, a beta ratio of 10 would yield a capture efficiency of 90 percent:
((10 – 1) / 10) x 100 = 90 percent
Therefore, 90 percent of the particles larger than 5 microns are removed by a filter that has a beta ratio of 10.

Flow Rate

In most engine designs, oil must flow through the filter before entering the engine components. Therefore, the filter must be able to handle 100 percent of the flow rate needed to feed the moving components of the engine.

Media Pore Size

The media pore size is the major determinant in how efficient and how small of a particle the filter can remove.

When these factors are combined, a problem arises. The physical size is usually constrained by design. The filter can’t be too large because of all the other components that we are trying to fit under the hood. The flow rate must be high enough to feed all the lubricated components. This means you can’t make the pore size too small or it will raise the pressure differential and the bypass valve will open, effectively rendering the filter useless.

There are a few things you can do to remedy this problem. Enter bypass filtration. Bypass filtration systems take 5 to 10 percent of the flow that would have gone to feed the engine and cycle it through an ultra-efficient filter and back to the sump.

With bypass filtration, the flow rate can be greatly reduced, allowing for a much smaller pore size while retaining a normal pressure differential. The result is much cleaner oil being returned to the sump. Smaller soot suspension and polar insolubles that are not controlled by the full-flow filter can now be taken out of the system. When combined with a full-flow filter, bypass filtration offers the benefits of lower wear generation rates, lower oil consumption, higher combustion efficiency and longer oil life.

In a case study performed by General Motors and published by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), it was determined that engine service life could be extended eight times when 5-micron filtration is implemented vs. the standard 40-micron filtration.



Obviously, having cleaner oil is better for the reliability of the engine. There’s an old saying that oil doesn’t wear out; it just gets dirty. Although there is some validity to the idea that dirtier oil will “age” quicker than clean oil, the engine oil will have a finite life. It will need to be changed eventually no matter how clean you keep it.

While it’s true that a system can remove the majority of suspended soot, wear debris and dirt, the oil and additives are still being decomposed by oxidation and nitration. The depletion of these additives will ultimately be the reason for the oil change. The system should slow down the rate of this depletion, but it cannot eliminate it. Acids, fuel and coolant are just a few of the contaminants that bypass filtration cannot address. They too can shorten the life of the oil.

If you are shopping for one of these systems, it is vital that you do your homework. Not all bypass systems are created equal, and there is a plethora of marketing material out there to make you feel thoroughly confused. Keep in mind that while testimonials may seem impressive, they are not scientific proof. Make sure the manufacturer has SAE and ISO testing to back up its claims.

When installed and maintained properly, a bypass system can provide great benefits. Just be sure to ask all the right questions and have a firm grasp on the concept before settling on a system.

.

...esteban

So he filters the **** out of the oil, apparently.

...esteban

Dick.

Timmerrr

With the motor on my car being opened I always change the oil at a max of every 4K miles. Way less depending on whether I did it or if I'm at school and can't do it myself and take it to what ever shop has a special. I got the car back once and they never torqued the oil drain plug and it was leaking...

njn63

I would rather go 10k mile oil change intervals and do it myself than do 3k at a quick lube place.

1158

You sound like a VW owner.

Stance doesn't affect oil filtration.

1158

So out of curiosity I went and checked our vehicles to see what the filter intervals are.

2001 Impreza RS - 4500 miles
1998 Integra GSR - 15000 miles (the oil is listed as 7500 miles)
1987 Silverado - 7500 miles for oil and filter
1986 Mustang GT - 3000 miles for both oil and filter

So that's quite the range. Even in the 80s it was all over the place. GC 8 why you so low?

Tim2179

iTrader: (2)

Mazda 6 gets it every 5k even though the book says 7k.

My 63 Buick? I know I've never changed it...ever. But I've only put about 40 miles on it since I've had it. Pretty sure I had the mechanic change it before my wedding back in 2011. Drove it ~800 miles that weekend.

falcongsr

filter surface area / oil volume

1158

Verstappen: "I want to challenge for podiums next year"

Shouldn't be a problem I figure he will either take Kvyat's seat at RB or move to one of the other 2 top teams. Versenna in place of ROS?

Blue wood love that.

1158

What model?

Friend in high school had a 64 Wildcat. 401 nailhead...good lord the torque!

Tim2179

iTrader: (2)

63 Riviera with the 401. Can't really feel the torque b/c carb is fubared. Car rides nice if you drive it normally, but mash the gas and it falls on it's face. Probably for the best, as you can't really abuse the car that way. :-p

1158

Good old quadrabog for ya.

I had one in my Cutlass too. My friend had his rebuilt after it started pissing fuel out the front 1 day. That lasted a week. He ended up buying a remani and the car came alive. Thing would do posi burnouts for miles lol

I swapped my Rochester for a Holley 650 and never looked back. Best thing I ever did to that car. I really miss the car.

Those Rivera's are classic. Love the lines. Have to tell my friend next time I talk to him.

BauleyCivic

Tim, what's the deal with the $500 limit for chumpcar and lemons...I saw that there's a loophole where you can sell off parts of the car and that counts toward the end value. What's to stop someone from buying a $10,000 car and selling off $9,500 worth of parts?

Tim2179

iTrader: (2)

The two series don't use the same metric at all for determining the value of a car. Chump has changed it nearly every season, and currently they have assigned values to just about every car ever made. No need to prove purchase price. You have a set "point value" (point = dollar) of a particular car and then you have the difference to add upgrades up to 500 total points. When you go over that, then you start getting laps added. Sounds like a big deal but it really isn't.

It's not a loophole. Its in the rules for Lemons, and it happens quite a bit. The first race I did was won by a salvage titled 2000 Merc S500. The guy sold off all the interior bits, electronics and spares.

But I'm curious - why do you ask?

Tim2179

iTrader: (2)

To add to that, I have done both (and won awards in both I might add), and they each have their pros and cons. Really depends on what you're looking for out of a race weekend. Lemons offers a more laid back atmosphere and HUGE car counts (over 100 cars at most venues), while Chump has smaller counts, and racers who like to argue ad nauseum over the minutia of the rulebook on forums. Lemons races feel more like rush hour traffic IMO.

hungrygreen_gsr

So I finally got my car back this past Friday

From dis


To dis



I also had him fix the helldouche rear quarter panels. No more bacon fenders for me.

Tim2179

iTrader: (2)

:swoon:

1158

Looks purty. Did a hell of a job. Bet you are happy. Was it all PDR or was paint involved? I can't tell in the first pic if the paint is messed up.