maxogsr

I'm wondering if any of you could help me...

I did a rebuilt of the engine last winter and now this year I'm loosing my Vtec went i'm cornering very hard...

Here's my set up: B18c1 upgrade with ITR pistons and cams, skunk2 IM, SMSP header, all internal is fresh OEM ITR genuine part... Tune with Hondata S200.

Last yar the engine was stock and I had never experience lost of vtec...

I start loosing VTEC when the oil level get in between the 2 dot on the oil gage tip...

I thought it was a lost in oil pressure since I was using mineral oil for the break in but I have try different grade and things dosen't change...

I need to fix this ASAP!

STN_Pat

use a good oil

install oil pressure gage

Chris F

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxogsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I start loosing VTEC when the oil level get in between the 2 dot on the oil gage tip... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't let it get that low. Overfill it half a quart if you need to.

Also take a look at the Moroso road race oil pan (part# 20910 maybe, if I remember)

George Knighton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris F &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also take a look at the Moroso road race oil pan (part# 20910 maybe, if I remember)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you're onto something there. A built B motor might momentarily suffer from oil starvation if the pickup ends up with froth or air instead of good liquid when the car's in a high-G manoeuvre.

This is why the old Spoon and Mugen baffled oil pans were always such good sellers.

George Knighton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxogsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Here's my set up: B18c1 upgrade with ITR pistons and cams, skunk2 IM, SMSP header, all internal is fresh OEM ITR genuine part... Tune with Hondata S200.

Last yar the engine was stock and I had never experience lost of vtec... </TD></TR></TABLE>
You might not understand why I'm asking this, but what HP are you showing on the dyno? What RPM are you pulling in the corners? What kind of suspension do you have, and what tyres are you using?

A very high HP tune with an S200 might mean you should pull the #3 spark plug and have a look at it every once in a while. The S200 doesn't allow for individual injector tuning, and #3 tends to run hot if the tuner tried to extract the maximum HP by leaning it out.

If he did this, your car will fair haul, but its life expectancy might not be what you want.

This kind of build will appear to be quite solid (and in most ways it is), but part of building this way might be allowing for 9000 RPM (or even more) in third gear. This can exacerbate the #3 overheating issue, and it will also exacerbate your oil starvation problem if you don't have baffles because you're really pulling a lot of G's.

If you come off the cam in a corner at high RPM and pulling a high G load, it can make for very unpredictable handling issues as the car comes down onto the nose.

LOL....

Ask me how I know this.

maxogsr

I've read that overfilling could lead to windage, or could be hard on rings... True or false?

I must admit that I alwready start looking at the moroso stuff... I know they make a OEM style with baffle #20911... Would it be efficient enough? Or I really need the one with the kickout sump...#20910

GBRacing

I've been having the same problem on my D16z6. I'm mainly experience it at Daytona with the high banks. I believe oil level along with oil weight itself my help. I don't know if mugen or moroso makes a pan for D16s, which might help my situation.

George Knighton

Looking at 20911 with the blown up picture, it seems to be better/more baffled than the Mugen and Spoon oil pans, and both of those seemed to adequately solve the issue for the B motor cars that were experiencing the issues of which I spoke.

My guess would be, yes, it's likely all you need. That's a guess, though. :-) It looks better than the Mugen pan I was using on my B motor build, but I have never used a Moroso product.

STN_Pat

What is the maximum exhaust gas temp you should see on an EGT sending unit that is directly on the cylinder 3 exhaust manifold header runner (1 inch from the block approx.) ?

Mine stays around 11-12*100°F on the track...

Edit : the moroso road race is a good product in term of doing what it's meant to do (oil starvation problem), and it is great for oil temp with the 1.5L more oil...only downside I think is that is isn't as sealed from oil as the OEM...as if the OEM gasket was not working as good on aluminium...go figure, maybe it's just me or my installation...no oil drops problem, but it is a little humid from oil around the oil pan gasket.

Chris F

I used to get my EGT's around 1800 with the turbo, but 1550-1600 was a bit healthier than that. (Probably too rich / retarded, fuel still burning on its way out the exhaust.)

rotten

You're loosing oil pressure.


I'd recommend one or all three:

-Putting an oil pan with baffles.
-Installing an accusump (1 quart is plenty big enough)
-Keep the oil topped off

maxogsr

It's 191 whp@7500 and 137 lfb@@6000 so I usually keep it below 8200 as it dosen't pay to go over. Only if the sencond is too short... sometimes...



Personnaly I think that is could be cause first by the lost of oil pressure. Then when I get commited into the corner at 100-120mph, because the very hot oil is coming so liquid after a few laps, it stay in the windage tray, instead of coming donw into the pick up... It only arrived when I turn counter clock wise...

I want to know how to solve this the easiest way... I don't think that just by changing oil it will totally solve the prob... But i'ts true that when I overfill by a half quart it solve the problem until it burn it off...

acura1652

have u looked into getting a different oil pan that can help eliminate ure oil loss??