I just got my Koni Yellow\GC combo in with the preset rates (350f 250r). The springs are the exact same dimensions, so switching the front and rear wouldn't be a problem. I've talked to a few people about putting the 350's in the back to get the car to rotate a little better since the DX's didn't come with a rear sway bar, but I cant get a consensus. Some say it'll be really oversteery and others say it will be fine. What do you think?

 

seeing how youre not running any rear sway bar, you should be fine. It will oversteer more than what youre used to. Drive slowly, until you can auto-x it or find a large empty parking lot. Keep in mind the different rates will have an effect on how the car sits. Moving the softer springs up front, will cause the front to sit lower. Just make sure you get it aligned afterwards.

 

keeping the more firm spring in the front could also make the car oversteer. I'm unsure of the factory spring rates, but if the change would result in the back lower than the front it would cause the car to oversteer. It would also make the weight transition to the front more perdictable. Also that may be too soft to put in the front with all the weight up there. Many people running a stiffer spring in the back are in the 600-1000 range. Everything is case specific i guess tho, but it is a few things to think about.

 

ha you guys are talking about oversteer with that low of spring rates?? Your joking right? The car will still plow like a 88 Oldsmobile.

on a previous setup I had 650 fronts and 850 rears with a GSR sway bar on a 95 Civic Cpe and the car still plowed. You have to be trying hard to make the car oversteer by driving like an idiot or completely have a screwed up alignment.

I currently run the new Skunk2 ProC coilovers on 550f/450r rates with 21mm rear sway and ASR subframe brace. The car feels pretty neutral but still understeers a lil bit but turns pretty darn good for daily driver spring rates.

If you want the car to be more neutral, go ahead and swap the rates or keep them like they are and get a ASR brace and ITR 22mm sway bar. Get an alignment with ZERO toe front and rear.

Then when you get use to that, get some stiffer springs.

 

I have the adjustable spring perches, so I can keep ride hight even in the front and rear.

Keep in mind that the CRX is alot shorter and lighter than most civics, so 350 is going to be pretty firm.

I mainly do track days with my car, so high speed stability is the biggest concern. I've spun it before because I lifted, so its definatly possible on stock suspension. I just want to keep nice and balanced, no too touchy.

I'm doing my own alignment using the string method. I was planning on running 0 toe for tire wear purposes, so it will serve dual purpose.

Thanks for the replys, keep em comming.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Voodooboy520 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just got my Koni Yellow\GC combo in with the preset rates (350f 250r). The springs are the exact same dimensions, so switching the front and rear wouldn't be a problem. I've talked to a few people about putting the 350's in the back to get the car to rotate a little better since the DX's didn't come with a rear sway bar, but I cant get a consensus. Some say it'll be really oversteery and others say it will be fine. What do you think?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rear-biased roll stiffness will reduce understeer for a few reasons, however you shouldn't do this if you intend to swap the 250 lbs-in spring to the front. 250 lbs-in just is not enough spring for the front end of the car if it is lowered from stock height at all - it will be constantly into the bump stops, which means understeer and unpredictability.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6spdKEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ha you guys are talking about oversteer with that low of spring rates?? Your joking right? The car will still plow like a 88 Oldsmobile.

If you want the car to be more neutral, go ahead and swap the rates or keep them like they are and get a ASR brace and ITR 22mm sway bar. Get an alignment with ZERO toe front and rear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's pretty much what i was getting at in my first post. when i said this is typically done on cars with rates from 600-1000, pretty much where you fall into. Also i don't think he should swap the springs I agree with targa, again what i was getting at in my OP. Also i thought if you gave a slight toe out you could get more initial "bite" into a corner decrease the understeer which would help oversteer to neutralize the car. Especially low speed auto-x.

 

I really discourage running a significant amount of toe-out on a street driven car. More than 1/16" total will result in excessive wear on the inner shoulder of the tires.

Toe-out does help turn-in sharpness, but comes at the expense of braking stability particularly in the rear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Rear-biased roll stiffness will reduce understeer for a few reasons, however you shouldn't do this if you intend to swap the 250 lbs-in spring to the front. 250 lbs-in just is not enough spring for the front end of the car if it is lowered from stock height at all - it will be constantly into the bump stops, which means understeer and unpredictability.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think thats exactly right. I'll put the stiff ones up front and when it turns more into a track car maybe I'll buy some used stiffer springs.

 

stay heavy springs front. Get a sway bar in the rear. Zero Toe but put it on a rack preferrably! Change out any worn suspension bushings.

1.) DON"T LIFT IF YOU FEEL THE REAR END GET LIGHT!
2.) Get on the gas slightly before you turn in.
3.) Don't try to brake real hard and deep when you first get out there. Overbraking hurts you in more ways than one but the main thing is SMOOTHNESS! Brake your heart out but what it really comes down to is being smooth and having good corner exit speed.

get some sticky street tires and have fun!

 

Glad you guys put him on the right path since I'm sure it will be my butt in the passenger seat again next year. V-Monster just get some R comps.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6spdKEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stay heavy springs front. Get a sway bar in the rear. Zero Toe but put it on a rack preferrably! Change out any worn suspension bushings.

1.) DON"T LIFT IF YOU FEEL THE REAR END GET LIGHT!
2.) Get on the gas slightly before you turn in.
3.) Don't try to brake real hard and deep when you first get out there. Overbraking hurts you in more ways than one but the main thing is SMOOTHNESS! Brake your heart out but what it really comes down to is being smooth and having good corner exit speed.

get some sticky street tires and have fun! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you

 

You better have a huge perch wrench if you want to run 250's up front. Get a bar and run the springs the way they are.

 

A rear sway bar will always make the car more neutral. 250 front springs is not too light on a crx for light track use as long as your not too low. I'm running ITR suspension with 250f 250 rear with ITR sways on an integra, and I can whip the *** end out on command at the track. What the hell are you guys doing out there to make your 500+lb springrated cars plow? I had a DA which is still heavier than a crx, and ran 350f 280 rear springs. It was fine for competetive track use. I wouldnt run the world challenge guys down with them, but you dont need 600+ front or rear springs to make a car behave properly.

Also, Im fairly sure lowering the front of your car will take away understeer due to the weight transfer forward under braking, rather than the other way around.