ok, im about to my brake job (pads, rotors, fluid) and well the fluid part is giving me a headache already.
im running lord what knows fluid in my car right now (probably pep boys dot4) and i have a litre of ATE superblue in front of me. and ive heard you cant mix brake fluid (like ate superblue and motul 600, wich i also have a half litre of)
anyway, here is the question

IS this the correct way to remove all fluid from the system.
have someone pump the brakes and just bleed them till nothing comes out?
do this on all 4 corners?
then just add fluid and do a standard bleed till all the air is out of the lines?
Thanks again guys
-Joe

and 1 litre of the stuff should be enough right?

 

actually, it is quicker than you think:

1- remove as much of the old fluid as you can out of the reservoir using an old turkey baster
2- re-fill the reservoir with the new fluid.
3- go bleed one caliper until you can only see the new fluid. That's where having the ATE Blue stuff is good, you will KNOW that it is all new fluid 'cause it'll go from yellow/brown to green to blue.
4- make sure there is still enough fluid in the reservoir, top off as needed. Make sure you don't run out, otherwise you will bring air into your lines and will have to bleed a whole lot longer.
5- repeat steps 3 and 4 for each caliper.
6- done
6bis - bleed the ABS

Notes:
(a) refer to the Helms manual for the proper brake sequence (you are supposed to bleed the brakes in a particular order, and I can't remember off the top of my head)

(b) refer to https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=211704 for the ABS-bleeding steps


HTH.


[Modified by SJR, 4:17 PM 6/21/2002]

 

thanks SJR
ill do it that way

 

every garage must have one.

 

hell yea, i have 2

 

ATE can mix with regular fluid... just don't mix the Motul. Best way to do this is to use a Turkey Baster to remove as much fluid as you can from the reservoir... You don't have to remove it all. Then add ATE to the reservoir to fill up. Then bleed each brake caliper until you see the new blue fluid come out... while making sure to keep the reservoir full... don't let it run dry while bleeding.

 

and next time, buy the ATE Yellow (Type 200, they call it) - it's exactly like the Blue, only it's yellow so you can still benefit from the color difference...

 

multi colored brake fluid RULES
i cant wait to 'pop my cherry' at my first autocross next weekend.

 

oh man. i'm ****** addicted to auto cross.
you're gona love it.

 

I think the order is:
Right rear
Left front
Left rear
Right front

Although I've heard its best to start with the caliper furthest from the MC and work your way in.

 

I thought it was passenger rear, passenger front, driver rear, driver front.

Zach

 

my helms says right rear, left front, left rear, right front.
worked fine

 

Proper Bleeding Technique
Slowly pour fluid into the master cylinder so as not to aerate the fluid.
BLEEDING BRAKES IS NOT DONE WITH PRESSURE, IT IS PURELY A FUNCTION OF MOVING FLUID THROUGH THE SYSTEM. THE OBJECT IS TO DISPLACE AIR, NOT TO SEE HOW FAR FLUID CAN BE SHOT OUT OF THE CALIPER!

Enlist someone who will help you bleed the brakes. Make sure they also read these instructions carefully (so they understand the goal).

For systems which are essentially dry front and rear, start by filling the master cylinder with proper fluid.
Next, at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder attach the clear plastic bleed line to the bleeder and open it, VERY SLOWLY stroke the brake pedal by hand or foot until fluid comes out. Now close the bleeder.
ACTUAL BLEEDING SEQUENCE:
Have your partner very slowly, with modest pressure (approximately 25-30 ft/lbs), stroke the pedal ONE TIME until hydraulic resistance is encountered. Ask your partner to hold at this point with the same modest and even pressure and notify you that he is, “holding.”
Open the bleeder, letting the pedal go to the floor or until it stops using the same modest level of pressure, close the bleeder, notify your partner, “the system is sealed.”
Repeat BLEEDING SEQUENCE (never stroke the pedal more than one time), until all signs of air are purged (no bubbles) from fluid. IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY, be sure to check fluid level after every third bleeding sequence or sooner if reservoir volume is very small.
Move to the location which is the next furthest from the master cylinder and repeat the procedures previously outlined. Continue until all calipers have been bleed. You are now 75 % complete with the bleeding process.
Now, take a small block of wood or a plastic hammer and carefully tap the calipers to dislodge any additional air bubbles that may be trapped.
Before re-installing wheels and placing the car on the ground, we recommend you carefully wipe clean all caliper surfaces, hose joints and fittings making sure they are all dry and free from seeping. If not, inspect and tighten appropriately. Spray all rotor surfaces with Brake Klean® or a similar product to remove all dirt and oils from your hand that may have been transferred to the rotor during assembly. Also remember to remove the nut which has been holding rotor in place, before attempting to re-install the wheel.

For street use, as with any time you open the brake system, it may be advisable to repeat the bleeding procedure after driving the vehicle for a day, as driving the car may dislodge some additional air bubbles. For competition cars, we recommend repeating this procedure directly after at least the first two sessions the car is on track and at the beginning of each race weekend thereafter.

Even if your pedal is high and firm and additional bleeding is deemed unnecessary, always inspect the calipers, hoses and fittings after the first outing for signs of any fluid seeping and correct immediately.


sorry it's long...........but this works

 

Is this the correct process? I was told this as well (by my father actually). The reason I ask is that... well semi-short story first:

I am having a problem with my brakes after an hour at the track Saturday. (Hallett) I had recently installed brand new Hawk HP Plus pads all around, and had my honda brake fluid flushed with new Valvoline SynPower by a local mechanic (I didn't know how to flush at the time)... Anyway, the brakepads and/or fluid combo was great at the track, I shaved 2 seconds off my previous best time and it felt great the whole day, never faded! But then, just like the last track event with all-stock ITR pads/fluid, today my brakes are mushy and don't have that wonderful bite to them any more.

Okay, the reason I said all that on this thread was this - I watched the mechanic start the flushing process before I had to leave and I noticed after he put the bleeder hose on the nipple, he pumped the brakes multiple times instead of doing it the way described above. Is it possible some air got into the brake lines during this flush? Or is it possible I actually boiled that SynPower fluid on the track? I was doing 100mph to 25mph braking in some hairpins. If I just boiled it, is this just something I'm going to have to live with, having to flush/bleed (which?) after each event, or do I need something like Motul 600? Is there a possibility I just toasted my pads? Surely not.

any help greatly appreciated. ....oh yeah, those stupid shims on the Hawks almost came off, they were melted when I pulled my pads to inspect them this afternoon. Is that any indication to how much wear I put on the brakes this weekend, or is that normal? I removed them...




[Modified by uncleben, 8:53 PM 6/24/2002]

 

Unless the drain hose if present goes under fluid into a jar, you'll suck air right back in while the bleeder is open on the return stroke. Proper technique is for the stroker to call 'floor' for the bleeder to close the screw after the squirt before the pedal release.

If the brakes were good on the track, then you either faded the pads or toasted the fluid or something.

 

Having a set of Speed Bleeders makes this job SO MUCH easier. Best $20 I've spent.

 

where get? autozone work?

 

http://www.speedbleeder.com/