I took my car into Sears the other day to get it alligned and when it was finished the guy said my caster was +1.5 each side to start (non adjustable) and at the end of the allignment he adjusted 1 side to 0 and the other whent to 1.4. it doesnt pull hard either way and the camber is about .4 FD and .7 FP minor pull to the left though and the camber is offset to "compensate" but according to the sheet I should not be driving ina straight line...

needless to say this alignment SUCKS!. but because the caster is not adjustable how can I fix this. Also what could cause it to be so misplaced and how can I fix this. Any adjustable caster kits for 98 ek I already have omnipower front adjustable uper controllarms and Skunk2 rear camber kit?

 

Caster is not adjustable, yet he adjusted it?

The only way to adjust caster on your car (to my knowledge) is to shift the subframe. This should be obvious if it was done if you look at the subframe mounting bolts, as they were painted after original install.

Normally, caster out of spec is an indication of bent parts.

 

or two left shoes --- errr two upper control arms that are the same side (left left or right right)?

kuz if you have them on the opposite side, you gain caster.

 

I had negative caster on my ITR when it was brand new. Don't worry about Caster unless you think something (knuckle, LCA/UCA/etc.) is bent.

 

Ok so I should check to see if anything could be bent/damaged before finding ways to fix it? The main thing is trying to line them up evenly I assume? so 0 caster on both sides or if its going to be -/+ they should be the same.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Caster is not adjustable, yet he adjusted it?
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yea I was as confused as you are about that.

 

You are able to adjust caster on a Honda by shimming the radius rods......good luck

 

Yeah, well most Honda/Acura models don't have radius rods post 1993, 1994.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DB2-R81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, well most Honda/Acura models don't have radius rods post 1994.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's 2008 and my Prelude still has Radius rods!



-Chris

 

What's Honda's spec for caster? I doubt it's zero. If anything you want more caster, it's desirable to a certain extent. Can't understand why he'd remove any.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vinuneuro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's Honda's spec for caster? I doubt it's zero. If anything you want more caster, it's desirable to a certain extent. Can't understand why he'd remove any.</TD></TR></TABLE>

For the EG and DC, its +1* of caster stock. For the EK, I don't know but its probably close to that.

And you don't necessarily want to just add caster without considering side effects in terms of suspension geometry. I run +4* of caster in my DC2, but my bumpsteer suffers as a result. Caught me off guard first time I drove it home, hit a very large bump with only 1 front wheel and was nearly in the next lane...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For the EG and DC, its +1* of caster stock. For the EK, I don't know but its probably close to that.

And you don't necessarily want to just add caster without considering side effects in terms of suspension geometry. I run +4* of caster in my DC2, but my bumpsteer suffers as a result. Caught me off guard first time I drove it home, hit a very large bump with only 1 front wheel and was nearly in the next lane...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand that you don't want to run excessively high caster. My Prelude is already close to 5*, and that's the stock spec.

Just checked the EK service manual. The caster spec is 1*40' +- 1*. His caster was fine going in, whereas now one side's at 0*. Alignments are only as good as the rack and the operator. This is a fine example of why to only go reputable alignment shops, dealer and/or diy (toe). I wouldn't trust the rack calibration of one at Sears, Firestone, et al either.

OP should go back and have them put the caster back to how it was.