descartesfool

Time to post up the list again for 2010 because there are new products and some updated pricing since the last list.

Prospeed RS683 with a 683F has the highest dry boiling point and also the highest wet boiling point of 439F:
See: http://www.rs683.com/abc.html\
sold here: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecID=1036

A few other new players since the 2006 list: Motul RBF 660, Endless RF-650, FERODO Super Formula . Also PROSPEED GS610 is discontinued.

ARRANGED BY DRY BOILING POINT:

DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:???F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1C (new since 2006)
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551 ($12.799/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:536F -- WET:388F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200 ($9.95/1L)
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1 (pre 2006) ($4/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570 ($5.65/12 OZ)
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated ($6.27/16 OZ)
DRY:572F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600 ($21.49/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:590F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TBR-1 ($11.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF ($79.99/1L 0R 33.8 OZ)
DRY:593F -- WET:421F --- MOTUL RBF 600 ($17.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS ($26.75/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:608F -- WET:390F --- AP RACING PRF660 ($28.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610 ($11.95/12 OZ)
DRY:613F -- WET:424F --- ENDLESS RF-650 ($33.00/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:617F -- WET:399F --- MOTUL RBF 660 ($28.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:622F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TSR-1 ($17.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:626F -- WET:???F --- FERODO FSF050 Super Race Brake Fluid ($39.99/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600 ($20.25/0.5L 16.9 OZ)
DRY:635F -- WET:430F --- PROJECT MU G/FOUR 335 ($45.00/1.0L 33.8 OZ)
DRY:683F -- WET:439F --- PROSPEED RS683 ($39.95/0.5L OR 16.9 OZ)

ARRANGED BY WET BOILING POINT:

DRY:500F -- WET:???F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3 PM-1C (new since 2006)
DRY:590F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TBR-1 ($11.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:622F -- WET:???F --- TILTON TSR-1 ($17.95/0.25L) (new since 2006)
DRY:626F -- WET:???F --- FERODO FSF050 Super Race Brake Fluid (new since 2009)
DRY:401F -- WET:284F --- DOT3 MINIMUM
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- WILWOOD 570
DRY:570F -- WET:284F --- PERFORMANCE Friction Z rated
DRY:550F -- WET:284F --- FORD HEAVY DUTY DOT 3
DRY:527F -- WET:302F --- AP RACING 551
DRY:446F -- WET:311F --- DOT4 MINIMUM
DRY:527F -- WET:347F --- VALVOLINE SYNPOWER DOT3 & DOT4
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5.1 MINIMUM (GLYCOL BASE)
DRY:500F -- WET:356F --- DOT5 MINIMUM (SILICONE BASE)
DRY:536F -- WET:388F --- ATE SUPERBLUE/TYP200
DRY:608F -- WET:390F --- AP RACING PRF660
DRY:601F -- WET:399F --- BREMBO LCF 600 PLUS
DRY:617F -- WET:399F --- MOTUL RBF 660
DRY:572F -- WET:410F --- AP RACING 600
DRY:626F -- WET:417F --- WILWOOD EXP 600
DRY:593F -- WET:421F --- MOTUL RBF 600
DRY:610F -- WET:421F --- NEO SYNTHETICS SUPER DOT 610
DRY:613F -- WET:424F --- ENDLESS RF-650
DRY:635F -- WET:430F --- PROJECT MU G/FOUR 335
DRY:683F -- WET:439F --- PROSPEED RS683 (new since 2010)
DRY:590F -- WET:518F --- CASTROL SRF


Some fluids on the manufacturer's web site did not specify wet boiling point, so I used the relevant DOT 3 value.

Water absorption:
DOT 3: This brake fluid has a glycol base with additives. It is clear to amber in color. It is hygroscopic (meaning it absorbs moisture) and has a minimum dry boiling point of 401F (205C) minimum and a minimum wet boiling point of 284F (140C). It will absorb 1 to 2 percent of water per year depending on climate and operating conditions.

Castrol SRF remains as always the Wet boiling champ. I don't know of any other new ones.

Now of course boiling temp is not the only thing to consider, as compressibility, water absorption rate, recovery, viscosity index, etc all play a part. But without a brake dyno, that data is hard to get.

See some good info in the previous list thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...t=champ&page=3

Here is an interesting chart of brake fluid compressibility: http://www.hrpworld.com/client_image...pdf_4745_5.pdf



And if you know of any other ones...

RR98ITR

Thanks for the update Claude.

When I think about brakes and fruid, specifically the heat specs, I try to think about the whole system and what the goal is. For most of us, who needs the highest boiling point? If your brake system is developing and failing to shed enough heat, while sure you don't want to boil the fluid and wind up with no pedal, you are paying in terms of something else. The rotor life must be terrible. The wheel bearing life must be terrible. Your tire temps will be running higher as well. If you have to run fluid with a 500 degrees F wet boiling point, and you have to run a pad that still makes good mu at 1700+ degrees F, then maybe you don't have enough rotor diameter/mass and/or cooling.

Scott, who uses Motul and thinks that it's too expensive..."but it's more resistant to pad knock-back than other fruids"...

GI8U2racing

Very interesting, thanks!

smokin rubber

for me it is a once a season bleed the brakes, $20 a year is a very small drop in the bucket.

Ghetto Civic HX

I guess I was being overly cautious doing a full flush of RBF600 before every HPDE

wupike21

depends on the time between them

I typically flush every 3 months during track season, which works out to about 3-4 weekends per flush.

double wishbone

Great info, thanks!

civichb20

Great info thanks I <3 honda tech.

STN_Pat

By the way, i've spoke with Prestone (making the Ford oil rated at 550 and 500F).

They say the oil in the 500F bottle is the exact same as in the old 550F. Wich one is the right temp I don't know, but i've been using this oil with great success at 6$ a bottle. I bleed often whatever the oil.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

descartesfool

Brake "fruid" eh! We don't have any of that in Canada. Is that some kind of magic elixir enjoyed by druids? What a coincidence. I'm almost through my case of Motul. Been a few years...what will I buy next?? Wilwood EXP 600 is looking good for the price. More or less the same price as Motul, so why not.

And as for brake heat, an endless concern. Thinking of a fan solution.

RR98ITR

You do have more V-squared than most of us. Wheel fans - Yes. Drilling holes to mount them - Uhhhhhhh...

Scott, who is sure you can get good brake fruid in Canadia...

FerreiraCompetitions

I would like to know where do you get your tech info from.

Now the most bizzare thing is this quote ..."but it's more resistant to pad knock-back than other fruids" Who said this?

slammed_93_hatch

Sarcasm said it...


Castrol SRF is what i run, bleed the brakes every now and then...


I used to run ATE, worked great in the H4 car.

FerreiraCompetitions

LOL got it. Phew for a second I.... never mind!

SRF is the best but ATE is not far behind if you flush it often. If every race you start with a fresh bottle of fluid throughout you can get the same performance at a lower cost. The AP 600 is also very good so take your pick. The important thing is to always have fresh fluid because it spoils quicker than milk!

nsxtasy

I've used Motul RBF 600 for many years in my tracked cars, since it has a much higher dry boiling point than most other fluids, and it has always worked fine. This year I decided to try the Prospeed RS683 and it has worked fine too.

descartesfool

Ken,

any difference in feel of the brakes with the Prospeed stuff that you can notice?

Timmah!!

I HAVE to run SRF in the datsun or Im flushing fluid out every session. Might give the new stuff a try when its time to flush the system again.

nsxtasy

No, none.