solo-x

Oh, one other thing. I found excessive side load and accelerated seal wear on my shocks with extended top hats. I went back to a standard height top hat and the seal wear was dramatically reduced. I've also found, as someone else noted, that increasing suspension stroke by more than 1" is unnecessary on DC and EG chassis'. If you do, the bump stop is no long effective and you start hitting the UCA against the strut tower, 23" diameter tires start to cut themselves on the fender seam, and so on.

JHall250

"You said that with "quite a bit of preload" your ride height was still lower then you'd like. You then said you could use more droop travel. It seemed to me that you thought that more droop travel would raise the car which would be incorrect. Increasing the extended length of your shock/fork combination would not increase your droop travel, but would increase your static ride height."

Gotchya. What I meant was more droop travel would have allowed me to retain the same amount of preload but have a higher ride height. Now that I've lengthened the effective shock body length by means of damper fork shims, I have a good amount both positive and negative travel with just a bit of preload at full droop. The setup seems a lot more happy.

brensonkoh

iTrader: (1)

is there a place that sells these as a complete coilover package?

revalved HD bilsteins to suit springs like 600 F / 800 R with a coilover
the required eibach springs
ground control coilover conversion kit
required bumpstops
top mounts

for a 99 EK hatch?


the only one i see is here
http://www.ground-control-store.com/.../II=825/CA=167

which is sold with a koni shock absorber...

i know www.fatcatmotorsports.com has kits like that for the miatas, but cannot find anything online for the hondas..

any help would be appreciated! thanks in advance.

liam821

I bought new Bilstein and dropped them off at Bilstein for a revalve right away. Then I bought the tophats, springs, and sleeves from ground-control. And then put it all together myself. It ends up costing similar to the link you have above.

shane(showtime)

iTrader: (1)

Dont deal with this guy http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=5139838

I had mine sent to him and never got them back. So many peaple have had issues with him.

brensonkoh

iTrader: (1)

is there anyone at bilstein i can talk to?
and do i need to tell them any specifications when i ask to do a revalve?

thanks

howl

iTrader: (3)

You can try talking to their service dept:

AFTERMARKET & MOTORSPORTS HEADQUARTERS - WEST
ThyssenKrupp Bilstein of America
14102 Stowe Drive
Poway, CA. 92064
1-858-386-5900


As for having it revalved, the link below is the sheet you fill out with specs you want then ship it over to them.

http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/...04-2011_01.pdf

liam821

I happen to live just down the street from Bilstein so I dropped my shocks off in person and talked with their tech there on what I needed. But, the short, is your fill out that paperwork, ship your shocks to them, and they'll revalve them to whatever you want. Make sure you do your research on what you need done or talk to them, as you'll only get back what you ask for.

I'm extremely happy with my re-valved Bilstein shocks though, they're fantastic!

JHall250

There really isn't anyone to talk to, their customer service for tuning is practically useless since the previous tuning service guy passed away.

brensonkoh

iTrader: (1)

thank you everyone for all the replies.

i will get in touch with them

exgr

What is the cost to have Bilsteins re-valved?

howl

iTrader: (3)

Depends on the shock, starts at $65 a shock.

http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/s...e/service.html

exgr

To OP: where did you get your Bilsteins from? How much? Are the ones you have identical to what's listed below with the front pistons being 36 mm and rears are 46 mm:

Part Number: 24-016049
Setting: B6 (HD)
Position: Front Right
Old Part Number: F4-B36-1604-H1;F4-B36-1604-H2


36mm Monotube Shock Absorber (click for more info)


Part Number: 24-016032
Setting: B6 (HD)
Position: Front Left
Old Part Number: F4-B36-1603-H1;F4-B36-1603-H2


46mm Monotube Shock Absorber (click for more info)


Part Number: 24-016056
Setting: B6 (HD)
Position: Rear
Old Part Number: F4-B46-1605-H2

liam821

I got mine from http://www.shox.com/ I think. I used Bilstein B8 Sport for an Integra TypeR, model numbers 24-023405 FR. and 24-023412 REAR. Once I got them I took them directly back to Bilstein to be revalved for my needs.

AV8TER

Just ordered up some ITR Bilstein Sports from Neuspeed and it was only $486 shipped. Assuming they get here with out problems, I believe that it is a great price. $60 cheaper than allshocks.com

Still up in the air if I want to do ground control yet.

exgr

You got the B8's? Are they 46 mm pistons front and rear?

racerdud17

which is cheaper on rebuild cost? i noticed with the Koni's it would b cheaper to just buy new shocks each time instead of having the re-valved. i have no idea cost on bilstein's. or performanc wise which is better... with gc setup 600# all around

koni yellow sport is 120
koni race 213
bilstein sport 138

Ecugrad

I am pretty sure Koni's SHOCKS are $120/ea to rebuild and Bilsteins are $60/ea to rebuild. Struts are more expensive

AV8TER

Not sure? I got the sports; BE5.2341 for the ITR rears, and BE5.2340 for the ITR fronts.


Edit: Yeah, just looked them up on Bilstein's page, B8, 46mm front and rear. Seems like a got a good deal. Got the cheapest price on the web and Neuspeed needed to order them from Bilstein so I am getting them direct from the manufacture(fresh).

http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mmid=1378885

AV8TER

Got mine in the mail this morning. They look awesome. Even include new bump stops and dust shields. Can't wait to throw them on. I still need to decide on a spring or coilover to pair with it though. Just mainly street drive the car but involve lots of spirited driving. I either use 195/55/15s or 215/40/17. I dont desire to lower the car too much, usually have 1-2 finger gaps on all the corners.

AV8TER

Finally got around to installing my ITR spec Bilstein Sports along with ITR spec H&R sports on my DC4. Added JDM ITR sways at the same time also, both front and rear(25mm/23mm).

Coming from stock LS sways and 4 year old Tokico Illuminas and Tokico Springs, the improvement is uncanny. I will admit though, the ride is very rough but I have less than 100 miles on them so far. I need to swap out front control arm bushings and the RTA bushing also and that might help, but I'm already looking for a softer spring(guess I might need to revalve the Bilsteins too then, damn).

Something worth mentioning though, the front struts do not have any attachment to secure the brake lines with. I have them zip-tied to the bodies for now but I'm currently looking into better solutions for that.

JHall250

Regarding the ride quality:
how low is your ride height
do you have extended top hats
did you use the stock bump stops or the bilstein stops (did you cut whichever one you used)

AV8TER

-1.5" in front, -1.3" in back, just the standard drop with H&R ITR sport springs. The bilstiens are set to their higher perch, not the ones that lower the ride height. I am using the standard bumpstops that bilstein includes, and I am running the stock top hats because of the shorter shaft lengths featured by the bilstein sport B8 series shocks.

The ride height is lower than I would like at this height and it does seem like the shocks are on the verge of being over dampened for the H&R's spring rate.

I'll give them a little more time to make sure they just don't need to be broken in, but I plan on giving Bistein a call to see if these can be revalved to perform optimally with just a set of the standard issue 250lb front and rear ITR springs.

JHall250

The issue I had with the Bilstein bump stops is the front is not substantial enough so when the front end bottoms out it's very violent because the bump stop is tiny. The rear was too large both in circumference and length which caused the rear end to feel very "bouncy." A good way to improve the ride would be to remove the rear bump stop, cut about 1/2 inch off the top portion and reinstall.

Also another thing to consider is the tuning for the ITR version of the Bilstein shocks is a good deal more aggressive especially in compression damping which is a huge ride quality factor in the rear end of the car. I would try trimming those rear bump stops and see if that helps you out some.

lib

Im using the ITR sport Bilsteins on a gsr as well and I had to take off the brake mount off the stock shock. They provide a tool to insert the bracket on to the new shock. I felt the overall package with the new bumpstops and boot was awesome. I'm using ITR springs and have the the shock on the lower position which lowers another 0.5". The ride and the drop is great but I will be upgrading to GC and a revalve in the future.

Glad to see more people with Bilsteins on Hondas!