I turned over the CRX today after installing a longacre 4 post switch...no dice. I get the "door ajar" beeping with the key in the ignition, but it won't turn over at all. I busted out my trusty light probe to check for power at every point in the circuit and sure enough I wasn't getting any power through the smaller two posts which I have connected through the ignition (the big posts carry the main power). I was getting power through the big posts and to the hot side of the small posts, but not through to the other side. With the test light still connected to the powerless post, I flipped the switch to "off" and the light flickered. I switched it back to "on" and the light flickered. I jiggled the switch a little, turning it about 10% of the way to off and the light came on. In this position, the car turns over. I'm going to bypass these posts and try again when my battery is charged to see what kind of current I'm getting through these posts, but it's still concerning obviously. Is there any kind of switch adjustment that I can do, or should I just send it back? Or does it sound like something else?

 

sounds like you got a defective kill switch...literally killing the car from the get go....

should be able to just hook stuff up to hot and lead....my switch only has 2 posts....

 

Travis:
Sounds like a DUD to me. You can check continuity with a 12 volt test light. There are no adjustments for the switch that I am aware of. If the switch is OK the test light will glow if connected from ground to either terminal in the ON position. If the switch is bad-you will have current flowing thru the lamp-thus lighting it in the ON position. Another test you can try is to bypass the 2 small terminals.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jc836 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Travis:
Sounds like a DUD to me. You can check continuity with a 12 volt test light. There are no adjustments for the switch that I am aware of. If the switch is OK the test light will glow if connected from ground to either terminal in the ON position. If the switch is bad-you will have current flowing thru the lamp-thus lighting it in the ON position. Another test you can try is to bypass the 2 small terminals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, I bypassed the two smaller terminals and it started just fine. I removed my bypass wire and it stayed running. Then I flipped it to the "off" position and it shut down just like it's supposed to. So basically, it looks like there's a weak connection between the smaller posts in the "on" position, which sometimes works when you jiggle it...that's no good

chad,

Yes, I jumped the wires from the small posts to the large posts and it works as it should. Guess it's time to order another one, and another one for back-up, and maybe another one for back-up back-up.

 

hey travis, i just realized my longacre 2 pole switch is causing a problem in my electrical system as well. without telling the whole story, basically the switch across the smaller terminals which my alternator is connected to is sucking up a large amount of voltage. who else is or had problems with these crappy longacre 2 pole switches? mind you i use this on a daily driver.


heres the long story:

2 days ago and previously i had charging issues with my battery dieing. well, after recovering my car a few weeks ago, i had to get a new battery since it wouldnt hold a proper charge, so i replaced it and thought that was the source of my electrical problems.

then 2 days ago i was driving at night and the lights were dim and my alt simply wasnt giving any charge, but no charge warning light. i got off the freeway just in case but then it suddenly got bright inside and everything seemed fine. one the way back home that night, the alt again wasnt charging and my car died, i happened to pull into a kragens parking lot, but at 1am. anyway, i get the battery charged in the morning take it home. i only got around to checking the voltage out of the alternator and its giving me 16V. didnt wanna change it because it was raining and im tired. but today i check it again, and its giving me 14.5... so i check the switch, and i see the insulation on the wire from the alternator is slightly melted and the source of the slight burning smell, which i only now connected. i check the voltage across the two terminals and looks like im losing 1.0-1.2 V! its been cold lately so im frequently using the heater, defroster and headlights at the same time. perhaps its too much current draw for these crappy switches. im gonna butt the alt lines since i dont need the kill switch to work properly at the moment (not racing). but still not sure if the voltage regulator on the alternator is currently reliable. however, this is like the 3rd or 4th alternator in the past 3 years.

 

I have had more master switch failures over the years than engine, transmission, clutch, or other major system failures combined. Different brands, some old, some new - doesn't matter.

K

 

Tyson:

As I explained to Travis-the best way we have found to use the Longacre switch is NOT to wire the Alternator itself into the smaller pair of terminals. My setup is so simple (actually K&E designed it) and has NO adverse effect on the electrical system.

It is a simple matter to break the connection coming out of the MAIN Fuse panel underhood that goes to the IGN switch (50 AMP line) and run it across the small pair of terminals. You will not need anything else other than this minor wiring change. The reason some switches do not hold up is that they are not rated for the load when switched. The smaller terminals will hold the current for a number of switching cycles. Also, keep in mind that the switch is a sacrificial part of the car. BTW: The engine does shut down clean using our wiring method.
Drop me an e-mail for more detail if you need it.

 

yeah, this problem occuring makes me believe that the small terminal on the longacre switch really wasnt intended for the the amount of live current going through those small terminals. anyway, ill worry abotu it later when i have to get teched again, but for now im just gonna butt the alt line together.