need a quick help to locate a problem...if it's possible to locate at all

running 1/4 total toe out in front (used sort of a toe plate style..but measured from the rim and not the tires)

running a little over 1/8 total toe in in the rear (can't run zero because toe adjustment for passenger rear is messed up...doesn't allow proper movement...but that's another story)

went on a test drive the car pulls to the right...especially after hitting bumps and what not...the steering wheel litterally moves to the right with the tires

so to my understanding, even if the front two sides are uneven, they will straighten themselves out once i start driving..the steering wheel will just be crooked...right?

so is the problem caused entirely by the rears then? would this mean my passenger rear has more toe-in than the driver's rear?

thoughts? comments?

<---has measured and remeasured so many times...but doesn't want to drop $100 for a shop to do it..

 

bumpsteer and caster affect straight line ability, camber too, but noe as much as caster. Toe of course has a alot to do with direction. How much camber are you running in the front? Rear?

Either that or you have worn inner tie rods or tie-rod ends or other suspension components.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azian21485 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&lt;---has measured and remeasured so many times...but doesn't want to drop $100 for a shop to do it..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats probably your best option. Even though the tires have the right alignment relative to the other tire on the same end fo the car, they could all just be pointing to the right or left.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chrisw85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bumpsteer and caster affect straight line ability, camber too, but noe as much as caster. Toe of course has a alot to do with direction. How much camber are you running in the front? Rear?

Either that or you have worn inner tie rods or tie-rod ends or other suspension components.</TD></TR></TABLE>

front camber is around -1.5 - -2...rear camber is about -.5

i haven't adjusted caster as i don't have a caster measuring tool...maybe it could be the problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats probably your best option. Even though the tires have the right alignment relative to the other tire on the same end fo the car, they could all just be pointing to the right or left.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i totally agree...but i'm gonna mess around with it a little more and if i can't fix it, allignment guys got a lot of fixin to do lol

 

Continuing to fugg with it wont help you any - you need to get it on the rack and make sure the wheels agree with the centerline of the car.

 

measure from a fixed point on the chassis, such as the frame rails, or suspension pickup points (assuming your frame is straight) to determine of the wheels agree with the centerline of the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">measure from a fixed point on the chassis, such as the frame rails, or suspension pickup points (assuming your frame is straight) to determine of the wheels agree with the centerline of the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's still a high probabilty for error, and it doesnt guarantee that you're measuring from the centerline of the car unless you get out the body shop manual and find it.

IMO, you should get the car on laser rack for the first alignment, and then make adjustments from there with tape measure, string and camber gauges. Once you know its straight, its easy to adjust.

 

i agree, take it to someone and have it done. but if you insist on piddle-******* around with it, you need to get a fixed point on the car to measure from to make sure all you're wheels are pointed the same way.

you don't have to measure from the centerline, but measure from a point that should be equidistant from the centerline on each side, such as lca pickup points.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tnord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you don't have to measure from the centerline, but measure from a point that should be equidistant from the centerline on each side, such as lca pickup points. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think thats just more likely to make things worse than before - there's no guarantee those are not within 1/16" of each other on each side.

 

in theory they should be exactly the same. but, ya know.....

"in theory marge, communism works," -homer simpson