the5

Hello,
I recently purchased an 1992 Interga endurance car.
The car looks to have been sitting for 2 years.
I would like to go through the entire car and freshen everything up from Engine to Suspension. The plan is to do a 24 Hour Race at VIR!

So far I have my list of-
-Fresh Fluids
-Fresh Ball Joints
-New Raxles
-Fresh/hubs and Wheel bearings
-Spark Plugs

What else should I add to the list? Thinking Distributor plus more...
(Disclaimer I usually work on newer Stuff with Coil on Plug so most of this stuff is new to me!)
Thank you!

Kaan

iTrader: (3)

I'm assuming this is a B18A powered car? you can do coil on plug, but you will want to build a cradle to hold the coils down on the head. the only design I could come up with was to run a bar across the top and then two "straps" from the acorn nuts front/rear of the valve cover. You will want to weld it all together and you might even want to put some padding on each of the coil tops to make sure there are not issues.

when you do hubs, don't forget to do your wheel studs.

I spent a lot of time reviving my chassis... and tap and died every chassis bolt/hole. That being said, you'll want to make sure you examine every bolt you put your hands on. I found some with severe corrosion and rounding heads. sure those bolts might not fail, but if you have to work on it track side you want to make sure its "easy" to work on.

ross2004

I assume this is the old "Beast Mode" Integra that was for sale? That car was well put together from what I remember. I wouldn't worry about going too deep on the parts refresh at this point; but the items you listed would be a good idea. Use quality parts- old OE beats new China. We've had great luck with OE axles repacked with good grease.

The 24 hour is brutally fun. Bring as many spares of as many things you can get your hands on. At a minimum 6 fresh tires, 8 would be better. Plan on rotating them about half way through. Use race-spec brake pads, they should last the entire race. A lot goes in to being successful at that race that has nothing to do with the on track action... Oh, and run good lights- VIR gets dark at night.

the5

Yes the Old Beast Mode car. We have ran the race before and Won our class and . 20th overall in a stock Spec Miata in 2017.
This year we are bringing an S2000 and now the Integra and try to go for the overall.

What wheel/tire size do you guys typically use? Looks like 15x7 and a 205.

Anything else to look out for On the car that needs to be replaced? Or Necessary spares?

ross2004

I gotcha, so you're not new to ChumpCar. Winning that race overall is no joke, and quite the achievement for anyone that can do it. That said, Simon Says won it 3x straight (I think) in a b20 powered DA Integra.

15x8 and a 225 RS-4 would do you well I believe. Of course the Re-71r will be faster, but you'll be replacing fronts about every 8 hours.

Looks like that car was entered in last year's 24 (even though they say it wasn't raced since 2016), and turned a 2:14 lap. Looks like they had a good race going then something happened that took them off for an hour. That car's very quick, plenty of speed to compete for the win...it's just a matter of putting a complete race together.

Spares: all your normal stuff you'd try to take to a race, but Honda specific would be a distributor. Try to find an OEM one if you can.

Kaan

iTrader: (3)

If you keep the distributor, add another ground from the chassis to the distributor mounting bolt. This extra ground helped extend the life span of my distributors for some reason. An old firehawk driver told me to do it because they had issues back in the day with their distributors back in the day.

2:14 is moving pretty good in a chump car. that's a top 5 pace for a H2 car at VIR...

as was stated before, go with a 15x8... my 225 and 205 RRs on 15x7s don't have a measured difference between them width wise. the extra tire did help with heat but not width.

the5

Thanks! I bought their "old car" but still a 92 integra B18, their new car had Aero I might add.
The re71r only come in 205 while the rs4 has a 225, I know the Rs4 will last easily but I wonder which will be faster.

What are my options to upgrade from the distributor?

ross2004

Anything you do to move away from the factory distributor will be points, so make sure you know where you are and can “afford” it.

the5

Looks to only be 20 points so not bad, Cams in the engine are 50 tho!

Kaan

iTrader: (3)

Hondata/Burton Coil on plug... some of the Honda challenge guys have an external coil (mostly MSD) if they kept their distributor.

I had a lot of luck with the extra ground... but that was AFTER I was neck deep in the new motor and committed to coil on plug.

ross2004

Probably pretty close. I've run the re71r and rs4 in the same size, and the Bridgestone's are magic. If money were no concern, I'd come with 6 225 rs4's for the dry and a set of the 205 re71r's for when it rains. The Bridgestone's are awesome in the wet, the RS4's not nearly as much. The RS4's will be very forgiving of the August heat, however.

the5

https://www.ebay.com/itm/92-93-ACURA...-/360148602488

This looks like the ticket?

ross2004

The MSD coil is prone to make the Ignition Control Module (ICM) fail faster. Have two good OEM distributors and just be prepared to swap them if need be. Have both marked in a fashion to where you can put them in and have the timing be correct. You can swap a distributor within a normal 5 minute pit stop if you have everything ready.

the5

Will do, I guess I could install it, time it, mark it, then take it off

spoolin2bars

I like this coil better. Had this style on my turbo crx for the last 10 years no problems.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-01-ACURA....c100752.m1982

killerpenguin21

at this point i dont think theres a reason to buy anything but the burton kit. i think external coil is a waste of time

Kaan

iTrader: (3)

FYI some of the MA folks are chasing down a top end break up with the Burton kit... at least thats all that changed and now they have a issue at high RPMS.

killerpenguin21

hadnt heard/havent experienced yet. i think weve all seen issues with the hondata kit though. my only issue is a whacked out ycp sensor, my timing goes full advance as soon as you touch the gas...we had to build it into the tune.

Kaan

iTrader: (3)

In my research that hondata issue was "solved." you have to have a capacitor in your ECU in a certain spot.... 90% of the Honda ECUs came with it... Its now in their instructions to make sure you have an ECU with that cap installed. Mine went in without a hitch and the car runs great.

Colin

iTrader: (1)

Looks like some of what you want to do was already done: https://forum.champcar.org/topic/185...tegra-racecar/
- already has a new distributor, but good to have a spare or at least a spare coil and igniter which may already be in your spares bin based on the above post
- already has new ball joints

A couple things I'd recommend as I've been a G2 owner for 20yrs
- The clutch cable is a failure point on these older cars. Would be good to have a spare unless you know the one in the car isn't old. They last a long time and aren't fragile but these cars are old so the old ones are going to fail at some point. These are no longer available from the dealer
- Pedal "stoppers" for the switches on the pedals. There are tiny "stoppers" that flip your pedal switches (clutch safety switch, brake light switch). These things break and cause pesky problems.

Based on the for sale post it looks well prepared.

the5

I actually had bought their Older car and that is their newer car. So No ABS or Aero.

I had the car out at the track at VIR this weekend, Was able to Click off a 2:19.

From what I see the car needs ABS or better brake proportioning, Has anyone ever added ABS or a Prop Valve?

ross2004

A prop valve wouldn't be hard, it just takes some brake line plumbing. ABS would be more involved with the wiring and sensors. Depending on what problem you're trying to solve, you may be able to accomplish it with a pad compound change.

Dublocivic

I have a Chase Bays adjustable proportioning valve-kit on my car and it works pretty good. It does take some fine tuning to get it right. Once the tires are warm, just adjust it to the rear until they start locking during threshold braking. Then back it off about a half turn and you maximize your F/R brake bias with the tire compound you are on.

killerpenguin21

mk60 abs shouldnt be difficult to fit

the5

Know anyone that has done it?