so i bought a 95 si for a couple hundred with SOME rust or so i though..... well im gonna have to weld in quarter panel patches on both sides those are easy to find and are pretty cheap along with new rocker panels. But im also gonna have to weld in a new piece in the wheel well so i was wondering if anybody sells a panel for that or if im going to have to make one of my own to fix it? any help would be appreciated. ive been looking but can find anything.

 

How about fiberglassing it, or donor car?

 

i would rather make one myself then use fiberglass honestly, i wanted to keep it as clean as possible but if thats what its gonna take then i guess thats what i got to do.

 

fixmyrust.com I've used their panels and they are pretty inexpensive

 

Have you looked on ebay motors?

 

how is the fit on those?

 

on a hatch perfect... a friend of mine ordered hatch rear quarters for his coupe on accident, but he still managed to chop em to perfect fitment...

 

yeah looked on ebay and all i can find are the quarter panels but no the wheel well, i did find a whole wheel well new for 174 but no way im gonna pay that to cut a little piece off haha

 

on fix my rust I wanna say it was like 80 bucks shipped for the full rear quarters

 

Then replace the whole wheel well and insure that there's no rust remaining.

 

With rust you want to repair everything at once or else you'll keep coming back and doing more and more. Fiberglass isn't a bad option because it doesn't rust, just make sure the metal its attaching to is clean and rust free.

 

well i was also wondering what parts on these hatches is structural and what isnt because there is also rust that u can see on the inside between the door and the wheel well and then there is a rust hole in the bottom rear corner of the passenger door area right above the rocker panel that is about an inch and a half in diameter

 

This. Standard philosophy for all rust repairs

This. Standard philosophy for all rust repairs x 2

inside between door and wheel well? Your talking about rockers...?

As mentioned above if you see rust its best to eliminate it before it returns.

I have ALOT of rust on my Del Sol and the parts I know I'm not welding, I'm applying Anti-Rust Paint (Picked it up from Princess Auto, but I should have gotten Por-15) after prepping it (using a angle grinder/iron bristle brush and brushing/wiping dust away).

Show some pictures. It will help in the learning process.

 

nah im talking about on the interior of the car there is a sloping piece of metal that goes from the wheel well to behind the seatbelt that i was wondering if it would be okay to cut out and weld a new piece in? i can get any pics of it atm cuz i lost the cord to my camera haha

 

pictures would really help us help you bro!

 

okay i finally got some pictures, the first two are of a hole after it has been cleaned up a bit and the third is of the inside of the wheel well, and the forth is the sloping piece of metal i was talking about that goes from the wheel well to the area behind the seatbelt
[IMG][/IMG]

 

Losing battle I think. You could probably find a good shell for what it will cost you to fix this.

 

well the thing is this is really the only rust on this , the underside is super clean, really wanna get it fixed and willing to put the money into it, plus i can do all the work myself, im just gonna fiberglass the wheel well and use a replacement panel and weld some new patches in where they are needed, dont wanna just let the car die, will be able to order parts next week and will make sure i post pics of the work for others to learn

 

That depends. My assumption is he plans on doing all the work. If he does the job properly, purchases required materials on sale/used he has a chance to break even and possibly less than a clean shell. The most valuable of this whole experience is the learning factor.

Well, I'm in the processing of repairing some rust. https://honda-tech.com/forums/paint-body-84/honda-del-sol-quarter-panel-repair-3039287/

From advice on here, other boards, research and friends. I've found the best method(opinions vary I guess) to use on a hobbyist's budget/tools is to sand/grind/brush as much rust off as you can.

Here's my process

-Used an Angle Grinder (paid $30 + 120 grit attachment $12) and grinded down all the rust as much as I could till it was back to metal or black premature rust
-Brushed off loose debris(used Iron Bristle Brush($5) and a paint brush ($1)).
-Spray Anti-Rust Paint (I went with Princess Auto Black Anti-Rust Paint. [$4 a rattle can on sale.] POR-15 would have been a better choice) and let sit overnight.
-Used an iron bristle brush and went over the areas I sprayed. Brushed debris and applied another coat of the paint. I let sit overnight and then applied a coat of Primer over the painted areas.

I have the same problem with the wheel well as you. I haven't begun on those sections yet. But for smaller holes I'll just toss on some JB Weld. For larger gaps I'll decide weather to use a Mig welder and put in new metal, or use Fibreglass and Bondo.

 

You aren't supposed to put real primer over rattle-can paint. POR-15 is fine because it is a MCU, but "princess auto black anti-rust paint for indoor and outdoor use on metal and wood" is not a suitable substrate (and likely doesn't prevent rust very well.)

Aside from that, your best best is removing as much of the rust as you can and welding new sheet into the spots. Using a weld through primer is a plus and using a nice MCU or rubberized uncoating on the back side of the panel prior to redoing the body spotwelds isn't a bad idea. Small disk angle grinders/air cutters work well for chopping out of body panels. fixmyrust.com is reputable, I got new quarters from them for 80$ shipped and the metal is of good quality.

 

Yea, so far the rust paint is holding up. But then again its only been two weeks. I got lots of things to keep me busy with this car. So if I'm not liking the outcome in the next two weeks (i.e. increase in bubbling or rust poping out of the paint)I'll just re-grind/brush out the paint and any build-up of rust and use POR-15.

Hey Joe what is a MCU?

Rubberized undercoating is an excellent idea! Thanks for the tips bro.

Fixmyrust.com seems to be a very customer oriented company. I called them and even thought they could not sell me what I wanted, they we're very friendly and these guy gave me lots of suggestions/advice of where to look and how to fix my car.

 

i cut my rust out then you get an idea of how much metal/glass you will need.

in one of your early posts you say you dont like fg but hell its easier to work with than thin gauge sheet metal and ive never seen fiberglass rust has anyone lol!

 

I've seen it swell, separate, rot, crack from thermal expansion, crack the paint around it, ect...

 

MCU stands for moisture cured urethane. It's a type of paint that cures by air drying (well actually form moisture in the air.) They generally are ULTRA hard 1 part paints. POR-15 is an MCU, as are many of the true rust stop products. I've had bad luck with any enamel/lacquer stopping rust for long periods of time. MCU paints don't "Breath" like enamel air-dries do. No moisture is gonna get in.

Just be careful with your anti-rust paint (the princess-auto stuff) as it can be rusting underneath and you won't even see it until you get a rust through. Can't tell you how many times I've seen that happen!

 

Any idea where to get rockers for a Del Sol? I cant find them anywhere!