My $50 rustoleum paint job
#27
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Originally Posted by street_ride14
How long did you wait in between coats ?
How long did you wait to cut/polish after your last paint coat ?
How long did you wait to cut/polish after your last paint coat ?
I let the paint dry for a day prior to wetsanding between coats, and let it dry for about a week prior to the final cut and buff.
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#29
Re: My $50 rustoleum paint job
Looks good, I want to try the roll on but I've already sprayed it once and had awesome results.
I would make a thread but I painted a bike with it and used clear coat as we'll and 3 stages of buffing.
Don't mean to steal your thread but here's the gas tank of my bike after I was done buffing it.
Sorry for a big pic, phone doesn't let me resize it
I would make a thread but I painted a bike with it and used clear coat as we'll and 3 stages of buffing.
Don't mean to steal your thread but here's the gas tank of my bike after I was done buffing it.
Sorry for a big pic, phone doesn't let me resize it
#32
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Re: My $50 rustoleum paint job
Hey,
I am doing the rear quarter of my eg hatch right now.
I sprayed it instead of rolling it.
Had some rust that I had to bondo to the front of the rear taillights (I guess this is a common rust area? Both sides are rusted exactly the same)
I will take pics and post tonight.
My question is,
Is it okay to wet sand the basecoat? I had a couple of bugs land in it while drying...
I was thinking of wet sanding then applying another coat?
Then letting it sit for a day or two then applying the clear?
then wet sanding from there.
anyways, I will post up pics of my progress
I am doing the rear quarter of my eg hatch right now.
I sprayed it instead of rolling it.
Had some rust that I had to bondo to the front of the rear taillights (I guess this is a common rust area? Both sides are rusted exactly the same)
I will take pics and post tonight.
My question is,
Is it okay to wet sand the basecoat? I had a couple of bugs land in it while drying...
I was thinking of wet sanding then applying another coat?
Then letting it sit for a day or two then applying the clear?
then wet sanding from there.
anyways, I will post up pics of my progress
#33
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Re: My $50 rustoleum paint job
I only used rolled on paint so I'm not sure how to work with sprayed on paint.
I'm not sure why you're posting about sprayed on paint in this thread I made about a roller job. If you have questions about rolled on paint ill try to help, but you might want to make another thread for sprayed on paint. I'd like to keep this thread clean if possible.
Also, I'm pretty sure when people say they've "sprayed" rustoleum they mean through a gun, not a can.
I'm not sure why you're posting about sprayed on paint in this thread I made about a roller job. If you have questions about rolled on paint ill try to help, but you might want to make another thread for sprayed on paint. I'd like to keep this thread clean if possible.
Also, I'm pretty sure when people say they've "sprayed" rustoleum they mean through a gun, not a can.
#35
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Re: My $50 rustoleum paint job
Not to mention the added costs of a standard paint job you ommitted: a gun or two and a large compressor to run the guns. Total cost around $1k.
This thread is about how to get a good looking paint job for minimal money, not about a different method that costs 10x as much.
Please remove yourself from this thread if you dont have anything positive or constructive to add.
This thread is about how to get a good looking paint job for minimal money, not about a different method that costs 10x as much.
Please remove yourself from this thread if you dont have anything positive or constructive to add.
#36
Re: My $50 rustoleum paint job
umm that is constructive you shouldn't be painting cars with paint that is suppose to be used on outdoor furniture...
For your information I am a ASE Certified Auto Body Technician with over 20 years painting cars and luxury airplanes
Maybe people do this for proof of concept but it is a bad deal.
The cost of the paint is close to Acrylic Enamel with a Urethane Hardener and to correct the application of this paint will mean stripping the whole car.
You can get a gallon of acrylic single stage with a hardner for $65 and paint it with a $16 HVLP gun from harbor freight. I have seen it done and it works out great.
For your information I am a ASE Certified Auto Body Technician with over 20 years painting cars and luxury airplanes
Maybe people do this for proof of concept but it is a bad deal.
The cost of the paint is close to Acrylic Enamel with a Urethane Hardener and to correct the application of this paint will mean stripping the whole car.
You can get a gallon of acrylic single stage with a hardner for $65 and paint it with a $16 HVLP gun from harbor freight. I have seen it done and it works out great.
Not to mention the added costs of a standard paint job you ommitted: a gun or two and a large compressor to run the guns. Total cost around $1k.
This thread is about how to get a good looking paint job for minimal money, not about a different method that costs 10x as much.
Please remove yourself from this thread if you dont have anything positive or constructive to add.
This thread is about how to get a good looking paint job for minimal money, not about a different method that costs 10x as much.
Please remove yourself from this thread if you dont have anything positive or constructive to add.
#37
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Originally Posted by CrxChicken
umm that is constructive you shouldn't be painting cars with paint that is suppose to be used on outdoor furniture...
For your information I am a ASE Certified Auto Body Technician with over 20 years painting cars and luxury airplanes
Maybe people do this for proof of concept but it is a bad deal.
The cost of the paint is close to Acrylic Enamel with a Urethane Hardener and to correct the application of this paint will mean stripping the whole car.
You can get a gallon of acrylic single stage with a hardner for $65 and paint it with a $16 HVLP gun from harbor freight. I have seen it done and it works out great.
For your information I am a ASE Certified Auto Body Technician with over 20 years painting cars and luxury airplanes
Maybe people do this for proof of concept but it is a bad deal.
The cost of the paint is close to Acrylic Enamel with a Urethane Hardener and to correct the application of this paint will mean stripping the whole car.
You can get a gallon of acrylic single stage with a hardner for $65 and paint it with a $16 HVLP gun from harbor freight. I have seen it done and it works out great.
This thread is about how to do a roller paint job and have it turn out good. It isn't about other painting methods. You're comparing apples to oranges. Blah
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#38
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Re: My $50 rustoleum paint job
-The $50 paint job is good if your car won't be going anywhere but the junkyard once you are done with it and you don't plan on keeping it for more than another few years.
-The rustoleum will fade, especially if you live in a state with lots of sun
-There's really no way to clear it for extra protection that will turn out well for you in the long run.
-It's actually more work to do than a regular automotive paint job because of how much wet sanding you have to do in between coats
-To do it right it will easily cost $100-$150 for all supplies
-In the long run it will take a lot more work and supplies to maintain a rustoleum paint job over a normal automotive paint job
-You can't repaint your car with anything but rustoleum after without dropping lots of money to have it stripped properly.
#39
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Re: My $50 rustoleum paint job
Ryank327,
- It's irresponsible to make a thread like this without addressing the many negative effects of the $50 paint job otherwise someone could see this thread and think it was an awesome idea without knowing the disadvantages of it.
-- This is probably the seven millionth thread across the net about the "$50 paint job." Pretty sure almost everyone who does this to their car understands the downsides to this method. Saying I am irresponsible for making a thread about this painting method with some sort of warning or disclaimer is ridiculous.
-The $50 paint job is good if your car won't be going anywhere but the junkyard once you are done with it and you don't plan on keeping it for more than another few years.
-- You can re-do it or strip it to throw some traditional paint on it for minimal cash.
-The rustoleum will fade, especially if you live in a state with lots of sun.
-- And then I will add another couple coats, wetsand, and buff for a grand total of $20 to restore the finish to its show quality, fast and the furious, make 'em say ughhhh shine.
-There's really no way to clear it for extra protection that will turn out well for you in the long run.
-- Doesn't matter when you can re-do the finish for around $20 like I said above.
-It's actually more work to do than a regular automotive paint job because of how much wet sanding you have to do in between coats.
-- I've painted one car through a gun with regular auto paint and I've done this once. In my opinion this is less work. There was a similar amount of sanding because I wasn't able to lay smooth paint with my harbor freight gun and under-powered compressor (which was $400 by the way). The thing that is nice about this is it is a lot less messy and you can theoretically do it outside without a garage....and you don't have to own a compressor.
-To do it right it will easily cost $100-$150 for all supplies
-- Less than $100 without a buffer; around $125-$150 with one. But then you'll have a buffer. If you go the standard paint route you'll need to spend around $1k to get everything you need. There is no way around getting a compressor that pushes enough cfm to power a paint gun, let alone a harbor freight gun that takes a crap ton of air to run.
-In the long run it will take a lot more work and supplies to maintain a rustoleum paint job over a normal automotive paint job
-- Yes, it will take more work but the supplies and cost to freshen up the paint is minimal. I've seen a couple threads where guys show the paint after a couple years and it still looks really good.
-You can't repaint your car with anything but rustoleum after without dropping lots of money to have it stripped properly.
-- $15 in sandpaper if you want to do it by hand or $50 in sandpaper and a harbor freight sander is not a lot of money.
Bottom line is this is honda-tech. Many of us drive cars that are worth a couple thousand bucks or less. My car cost $1,400 (prior to spending another $10k on track-oriented goodies) and it looks 100x better than it did when I bought it. We aren't talking about expensive cars that "deserve" custom multi-thousand-dollar paint jobs. Most people on this website want to know how to improve their car for the least amount of money. This is one option for people with less than desirable paint jobs.
- It's irresponsible to make a thread like this without addressing the many negative effects of the $50 paint job otherwise someone could see this thread and think it was an awesome idea without knowing the disadvantages of it.
-- This is probably the seven millionth thread across the net about the "$50 paint job." Pretty sure almost everyone who does this to their car understands the downsides to this method. Saying I am irresponsible for making a thread about this painting method with some sort of warning or disclaimer is ridiculous.
-The $50 paint job is good if your car won't be going anywhere but the junkyard once you are done with it and you don't plan on keeping it for more than another few years.
-- You can re-do it or strip it to throw some traditional paint on it for minimal cash.
-The rustoleum will fade, especially if you live in a state with lots of sun.
-- And then I will add another couple coats, wetsand, and buff for a grand total of $20 to restore the finish to its show quality, fast and the furious, make 'em say ughhhh shine.
-There's really no way to clear it for extra protection that will turn out well for you in the long run.
-- Doesn't matter when you can re-do the finish for around $20 like I said above.
-It's actually more work to do than a regular automotive paint job because of how much wet sanding you have to do in between coats.
-- I've painted one car through a gun with regular auto paint and I've done this once. In my opinion this is less work. There was a similar amount of sanding because I wasn't able to lay smooth paint with my harbor freight gun and under-powered compressor (which was $400 by the way). The thing that is nice about this is it is a lot less messy and you can theoretically do it outside without a garage....and you don't have to own a compressor.
-To do it right it will easily cost $100-$150 for all supplies
-- Less than $100 without a buffer; around $125-$150 with one. But then you'll have a buffer. If you go the standard paint route you'll need to spend around $1k to get everything you need. There is no way around getting a compressor that pushes enough cfm to power a paint gun, let alone a harbor freight gun that takes a crap ton of air to run.
-In the long run it will take a lot more work and supplies to maintain a rustoleum paint job over a normal automotive paint job
-- Yes, it will take more work but the supplies and cost to freshen up the paint is minimal. I've seen a couple threads where guys show the paint after a couple years and it still looks really good.
-You can't repaint your car with anything but rustoleum after without dropping lots of money to have it stripped properly.
-- $15 in sandpaper if you want to do it by hand or $50 in sandpaper and a harbor freight sander is not a lot of money.
Bottom line is this is honda-tech. Many of us drive cars that are worth a couple thousand bucks or less. My car cost $1,400 (prior to spending another $10k on track-oriented goodies) and it looks 100x better than it did when I bought it. We aren't talking about expensive cars that "deserve" custom multi-thousand-dollar paint jobs. Most people on this website want to know how to improve their car for the least amount of money. This is one option for people with less than desirable paint jobs.
#43
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Re: My $50 rustoleum paint job
wow so many haters when they dont even own the op's car lol. the way i see is it if your not paying for the the paint job then stfu.
#46
Re: My $50 rustoleum paint job
Paint looks good regardless of the method used to get to that point. Plus if that was the intent of the OP to do a nice roller paint job for 50 dollars then good on him. He took the time to do it right and it doesn't look tacky or cheap.
Keep doing what your doing and have fun!
Keep doing what your doing and have fun!
#47
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Re: My $50 rustoleum paint job
Naturally you'll have bodymen/auto paint techs chime in this because well, if everyone did it, then this industry of workers would all find themselves out of a job.
Even though they over-charge for paint jobs...
The hatch looks pretty damn good from the pics. Looks like a clean EG.
What I want to know is through all the layers of paint, how much is each coat in mm/cm? How much weight is the paint per coat?
Even though they over-charge for paint jobs...
The hatch looks pretty damn good from the pics. Looks like a clean EG.
What I want to know is through all the layers of paint, how much is each coat in mm/cm? How much weight is the paint per coat?
#48
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Originally Posted by habanerored06si
Naturally you'll have bodymen/auto paint techs chime in this because well, if everyone did it, then this industry of workers would all find themselves out of a job.
Even though they over-charge for paint jobs...
The hatch looks pretty damn good from the pics. Looks like a clean EG.
What I want to know is through all the layers of paint, how much is each coat in mm/cm? How much weight is the paint per coat?
Even though they over-charge for paint jobs...
The hatch looks pretty damn good from the pics. Looks like a clean EG.
What I want to know is through all the layers of paint, how much is each coat in mm/cm? How much weight is the paint per coat?
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#49
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I don't really think paint jobs are overpriced. Well at least not the good ones. It takes a TON of time to prep a car for paint.
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