ok so i let my wife borrow the em for a day and this is what i get in return my em lip with a serious curb rash spot. no i want to know how can i got about in fixing this i know body shop but i don't have that kind of money right now and i want to see if i can learn how to fix it my self.
i was thinking of just sanding it down till it gets smooth and just repaint it up again.
but my friends says that they make a sealer to fix plastic is he right?

 

your friends are right to a point you can A. sand it down but then in return make it a weak spot. or B. alot of big companys make a plastic repair, lord fuzor comes to mind off the top of my head, thats used just like plastic filler (aka bondo) but if used right and build up feather it out, prime, sand numerous times using a guide coat, then seal and respray base and clear. Plan b is always the best. no pun intended.

 

Thank u for you response but when u say a guide coat what do u mean exactly

 

A guide coat is a mist coat of (usually black) paint used to keep track of what and how much has been sanded. It's most commonly used when wet-sanding primer. You spray a light mist of paint just over the surface and let it fall, creating an even layer of tiny flecks. Let the paint set briefly and then start wet sanding. Once you have removed all of the black paint, you know the entire surface has been completely sanded.

You'll be fine with some quality body filler. The curved corner of the front lip is pretty rigid and shouldn't cause the problems associated with using filler on more flexible plastic parts. Plus, the area is small and the scratches don't look too deep. Plastic weld (Fuzor) is most often used when an area of a plastic part has been weakened and more than cosmetic repair is needed, or when filling holes/crevices in plastic and building up the surface prior to further bodywork. Body filler is still used to level and smooth the surface after grinding down the plastic filler.

 

let me make it easy for you...
treat it just like a regular dent... with a few minor differences.

sand that area with 180 or 220.. get plastic adhesion promoter, and plastic specific body filler. BAM BOOM.. DONE. fill sand, primer, paint.

 

So let me get this straight add the filler first then start sanding with water till I get it smooth and then primer it paint it and I won't have to kill my wife !!!

 

I'd say the last part is optional

 

Guide coats also are meant to show low spots in the painting surface.

 

Do not wet sand filler. Filler is a very porous surface until it is sealed.


Heres what you need to do to fix that.

1. pull the lip off of the car.
2. Get 80 grit sand paper and sand that patch semi smooth.
3. Get a plastic adhesion promoter or flexible plastic filler that is made for plastic repair.
4. Apply a semi heavy first coat of filler and let dry.
5. Sand first coat with 80 grit until it is smooth and then sand with 180 and see where you are at. Judge how many more coats of filler you will need.
6. Apply the second light coat of filler (depending on how good your first coat was this could be your last) and sand with 180 until smooth. Sand with 320 grit until very smooth. Feel with your hand for waves and etc.
7. Apply a sandable primer and guide coat and let dry. (if your second coat was good enough)
8. Wet sand with 400 grit sand paper. ( Note: Black spots are low spots filler bleed through are high spots once sanded with 400)
9. If the panel work is 100% fine and smooth and matches the contour, prep the panel for sealer.
10. Get a red scuff pad and scuff the whole lip. Make sure the scuff pad is wet.
11. Clean the panel with wax and grease remover and a tack cloth. Spray the sealer down.
12. After the coat or 2 of sealer apply your base coat.
13. After your coats of base are dry apply the clear coat.

Once the panel is dry, you may notice little specs of dirt in the paint or a run or you may not have any of that.

If there is dirt or a run get 1200-1500 grit sand paper and wet sand the imperfection (make sure you dont burn through) and then buff and polish the panel.


Hope this helps.!!!

 

maybe the picture doesn't show how deep the scratches are, but if it's plastic, and was just scraped, you might not have to use filler at all. What matters is that the shape is still consistent.

 

While using 80 grit paper works great for metal panel repairs to give a nice rough surface for body filler to adhere to, it is usually too coarse for bare plastic. Sanding with a heavy grit will create little plastic fibers and cover the surface of most plastics with a fuzz that can stick up to and over the level you are aiming for with the finished surface. When blocking the filler, the plastic fibers don't sand the same as the filler around them, making it almost impossible to smooth the surface properly. As Gorillafart mentioned first, 180 is about what you'd want to use for sanding bare plastic.

 

thats one of those "damn woman" how did you do that kind of responses.
Id forgive her and limit any driving she does with your car.

 

I agree but disagree. I always use 80 before the first fill on a plastic gouge just to ger tid of the rough edges and then i go with a 180 sometimes before filler but most of the time i just do 80 then blow off the panel and then fill it.

 

Just take your time ,dont take shortcuts ,make sure everywhere is givin a good sanding through all processes ,and make sure to finish the filler before primer with 180 then move to 240 then 320 ,leaving no trace of repair