I wetsanded ...applied compound..and polished

Now I see swirls and lines at certain angles. Is there anyway I can remove this? I got rid of the orange peel, but now have swirls and and surface scratches everywhere.

Should I have buffed it out more with the compound?

Can I reapply compound again to remove swirls and lines? FYI the car is freshly painted ( 5 days ago to be exact)

Thanks

 

You should try Meguair's scratch X.
http://www.meguiars.com/?auto-...atchX

 

what grit sand paper did you use... if your paint was recently laid on you may have not waited long enough for the paint to harden.

also, what compound did you start with and end with in succession?... i WOULDN'T use the scratch-x but rather use a final glaze fine rubbing compound.

 

ok to make things clear, scratch X is a very very very very light abrasive polish. To give you an idea of how light, I use it on woodgrain trim on dashboards. With that said, it won't do the job. The original poster knows it too.

As for the wetsanding marks, I'm going to assume you followed proper technique (even application of wetsanding paper is hte most important), and on a clean surface with lots and lots of water.

What machine are you using to buff? Are you using a rotary, and D/A?

Are you using wool pads or foam pads?

You will not remove the wetsanding marks with a D/A (like a Porter Cable 7424, or Ultimate Detailing Machine). You will be able to with a rotary machine and wool. It CAN be achieved with foam pads if wool is not accessible.

here's a link to some great videos on finishing after wetsandinng: http://autopia.org/forum/detai....html

^make sure you watch all the videos!

what kind of compound are you using, what pads or wool?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kv_sir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok to make things clear, scratch X is a very very very very light abrasive polish. To give you an idea of how light, I use it on woodgrain trim on dashboards. With that said, it won't do the job. The original poster knows it too.

As for the wetsanding marks, I'm going to assume you followed proper technique (even application of wetsanding paper is hte most important), and on a clean surface with lots and lots of water.

What machine are you using to buff? Are you using a rotary, and D/A?

Are you using wool pads or foam pads?

You will not remove the wetsanding marks with a D/A (like a Porter Cable 7424, or Ultimate Detailing Machine). You will be able to with a rotary machine and wool. It CAN be achieved with foam pads if wool is not accessible.

here's a link to some great videos on finishing after wetsandinng: http://autopia.org/forum/detai....html

^make sure you watch all the videos!

what kind of compound are you using, what pads or wool? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used a wool type material to buff with the compound and a microfiber pad to apply the polish.

The machine I sued is called "rockford" and its from wal-mart so, i know I went wrong there. I am a true beginner to this so, I dont know the difference between a rotary and a D/A.

I used turtle wax compund with wool.

I hope I didnt completely screw up my paint. Is this still fixable or am I too late? The swirls and lines are only in certain areas and not all over the car, but it is extremely noticeable under the sun.

Thanks guys and any more info would be great.

 

here's a tip stop trying do things on ya own because u make autobody techs like me look like we're not needed. All u had to do is take it to the shop now u have to either work harder to fix it or spend more money than u should! LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Saga Boy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here's a tip stop trying do things on ya own because u make autobody techs like me look like we're not needed. All u had to do is take it to the shop now u have to either work harder to fix it or spend more money than u should! LOL </TD></TR></TABLE>

U know what, I just bought the Mothers Clay Bar pkg and it worked!

Thanks guys again Honda-tech ftw!

 

you should also try the chroma 1500 polish from presta. it seems to get way more off than the claybar, and removes more of the larger swirls.

i have used it after a 1500 grit wetsand and it really works well.

 

i agreee with typer#0427

after use some 3m hand glaze and maybe mothers quick wax. i work at a shop this is what we usually use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solbrothers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THERE IS A PAINT/BODY FORUM</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry about that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ej sick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agreee with typer#0427

after use some 3m hand glaze and maybe mothers quick wax. i work at a shop this is what we usually use.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Will definitely have to get something like that. Thanks!

 

What the hell are you guys talking about?

A clay bar will not remove scratches. it's made for pulling bonded contaminants off your paint to make it smooth again and prepare the surface for compounding or polishing, or paint protection if you aren't going to do any paint correction.

If you start buffing your paint without claying, the dirt will just mix in with the polish and cause more swirls. Think about it...the abrasives in polishes and compounds are meant to break down and eventually become nothing when its exposed to heat and friction, but dirt particles do not breakdown so they keep rubbing into your paint causing swirls and other beautiful nastiness.

Also, these scratches you are talking about...do they look like this.......



Or do they look like this....notice the lines going from left to right....

 

3M makes a 3 stage process for after paint buffing. The clay bar is not taking out your scratches, and please do not use any wax on the car yet you will scratch it even more.

Go to an auto body paint supply store and they will give you what you need. Now it is not cheep but this way you will have the right stuff.


And to tell someone not to do it them self's because it puts you out of work is your own problem, we all have to learn somewhere and the bad part is you sometimes have to mess up in order to learn.