as stated, looking for some suggestions on good buffers that can easily be used at home without a lot of experience and produce decent results. Any suggestions appreciated.

also, whats everyones stance on ebay buffers?

 

I would stick with Makita or DeWalt.

 

ok. what features am i looking for and what price range?

 

Either of those will most likely run you about $175 - $200, those are the only buffers I've ever used, so I don't have much input on any others. As for features they all should be pretty much the same.

 

porter cable 7424 or the ultimate detailing machine!

 

well, not to sound unappreciative, but my only hang up is that I've heard if your not careful, you can really screw up a good clear coat with those things if your not trained. im looking for something a little less professional and more affordable that will keep me from screwing up the paint.

but thanks for input. any other is appreciated!

 

Any kind of buffer not used correctly will burn through your paint wether it's professional or not. Technique is involved in buffing, granted it's not all that much, but if you don't know what you're doing you can burn through the paint.

 

that just answered my question then. thanks man. i will probably try to get some instruction on buffing then before i attempt to do anything else. thanks to all who helped!

 

practice on ur grandma's beater the first timed i buffed my hood i burnt the clear...its all in technique

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Kevin. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">porter cable 7424 or the ultimate detailing machine!</TD></TR></TABLE>

NO

that **** is useless. I have one and all I use it for is glaze and wax.

get a GOOD rotary, makita would be my choice. I have a Milwaukee but it is on the heavy side. but Milwaukee products literally last forever.

keep the RPM's under 2k, dont hold it in one place and always do in up down side to side motions and you shouldnt have to worry about burn thru

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

NO

that **** is useless. I have one and all I use it for is glaze and wax.

get a GOOD rotary, makita would be my choice. I have a Milwaukee but it is on the heavy side. but Milwaukee products literally last forever.

keep the RPM's under 2k, dont hold it in one place and always do in up down side to side motions and you shouldnt have to worry about burn thru</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same here, Makita's are pretty smooth too.

 

3 reasons i personally like the DeWalt:
1. it has a handle that you can put on either side, instead of the hoop on top.
2. when you pull the trigger it doesn't wind up like the makita's do.
3. it lists the RPM's on the dial, instead of a chart.

BUT, the makita is lighter and seems to be a bit quieter. (i got a new DeWalt and it sounded like a jet for about a month)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pockets &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3 reasons i personally like the DeWalt:
1. it has a handle that you can put on either side, instead of the hoop on top.
2. when you pull the trigger it doesn't wind up like the makita's do.
3. it lists the RPM's on the dial, instead of a chart.

BUT, the makita is lighter and seems to be a bit quieter. (i got a new DeWalt and it sounded like a jet for about a month)</TD></TR></TABLE>

the hoop on top is better IMO. my milwaukee has the handle on the side that can be put on either side, but it is kind of akward when buffing the sides of a vehicle, the hoop on top like the makita is more convienent IMO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

NO

that **** is useless. I have one and all I use it for is glaze and wax.

get a GOOD rotary, makita would be my choice. I have a Milwaukee but it is on the heavy side. but Milwaukee products literally last forever.

keep the RPM's under 2k, dont hold it in one place and always do in up down side to side motions and you shouldnt have to worry about burn thru</TD></TR></TABLE>

who wants to take a bet he burns through the paint his first time using it. If you know the pads and compounds/polishes you are using then you should have no problem correcting paint with the UDM or the PC. I have the PC and use a LC orange, yellow, and white pad. I have had no problems as of yet and have done a few cars. I prefer the optimum line also, I feel there products are supurior.

I by no means am a professional detailer, but like yourself I wanted something cheap and easy to use that gets the job done and those that i mentioned will do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Kevin. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

who wants to take a bet he burns through the paint his first time using it. If you know the pads and compounds/polishes you are using then you should have no problem correcting paint with the UDM or the PC. I have the PC and use a LC orange, yellow, and white pad. I have had no problems as of yet and have done a few cars. I prefer the optimum line also, I feel there products are supurior.

I by no means am a professional detailer, but like yourself I wanted something cheap and easy to use that gets the job done and those that i mentioned will do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I started with the PC but I was unhappy with the results, I mean its fine for light polishing but for any kind of paint correction, youll spend 3x the time opposed to a rotary.

I never used a rotary before when I bought mine, I just read up how proper technique and I have never had a problem

the key is to always keep it moving. also using a product like optimum which has like an unlimited work time helps as well.

hell ive even done things like use the edge of the pad on certain tight spots with no ill effects.

*shrug*

but I guess if you are preety inexperienced and dont really have the concept of it down, you can do some damage.

but honestly I was pretty dissapointed with the PC. the 1st time I had a job where I had to correct some major swirls, after that job I knew it was time for a rotary

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


but honestly I was pretty dissapointed with the PC. the 1st time I had a job where I had to correct some major swirls, after that job I knew it was time for a rotary</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true and everyone has a different learning curve. As far as the PC I would say it depends on the paint. If he is working with Honda paint I don't think he will have a problem correcting swirls. Maybe doing a corvettes paint you may have an issue with the pc since the paint is so hard. Nissan's paint was fairly easy to correct for me also.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Kevin. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Very true and everyone has a different learning curve. As far as the PC I would say it depends on the paint. If he is working with Honda paint I don't think he will have a problem correcting swirls. Maybe doing a corvettes paint you may have an issue with the pc since the paint is so hard. Nissan's paint was fairly easy to correct for me also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats very true. a PC wont do **** to vette or german car paint. Hondas he can work with.

 

The only places he should really be concerened about breaking through are edges, like spoilers, door edges, body lines..... Learning the pads, and compunds are just as important too.

 

start with the good porter cable 7424, get the hang of it, learn its limitations, then jump to a rotary like dewalt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fventura03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">start with the good porter cable 7424, get the hang of it, learn its limitations, then jump to a rotary like dewalt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

6 hours to compound a car FTL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-Rok &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

6 hours to compound a car FTL</TD></TR></TABLE>

it really is an all day thing, compounding isn't all you need to do...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fventura03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

it really is an all day thing, compounding isn't all you need to do... </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, the 6 hours would just be for the compounding

 

holy jesus, i thought this was done with a while back.

as I'm to understand it, there is no cheap solution (as with anything to do with cars), and i need to just save the pennies that I'm trying to pinch and buy something decent. having a teacher probably wouldn't hurt either.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Kevin. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
who wants to take a bet he burns through the paint his first time using it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats negative talk right there buddy. thats what I'm trying to avoid(screwing up the car). if any of you gents has a good link to some learnins for da buffin, I'd really like to take a look at that.

again, to clarify, should i decide to go with a good buffer, i need to look at a higher quality rotary such as dewalt or makita? thanks guys

 

you should look online at videos, that'd be the best way for you to see how it's done, instead of trying to read it online.

check youtube.com search for porter cable 7424.

also check meguiarsonline.com they have A LOT of helpful information, and also a lot of good videos of classes where they show people how to detail.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Convert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">holy jesus, i thought this was done with a while back.

as I'm to understand it, there is no cheap solution (as with anything to do with cars), and i need to just save the pennies that I'm trying to pinch and buy something decent. having a teacher probably wouldn't hurt either.

thats negative talk right there buddy. thats what I'm trying to avoid(screwing up the car). if any of you gents has a good link to some learnins for da buffin, I'd really like to take a look at that.

again, to clarify, should i decide to go with a good buffer, i need to look at a higher quality rotary such as dewalt or makita? thanks guys

</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you decide to get a rotary, get the makita. as everyone has posted, you have to be more careful with one opposed to a PC.

PC's are alright if you dont have to do extensive paint correction