how do i turn my high beam lights into daytime lights?? i have a 94-97 GSR.

 

resistors... to reduce the voltage from 12 to something lower...

and a relay that allows for normal operation...

thing is this circuit could get very hot...

why do you want drls? other than insurance purposes.. and the ability to be more easily seen in glare...

they really have no purpose...

 

no resistors required, no heating up of anything.
two relays total, one to route the ground of one bulb to the power of the other. The second to supply power to the two bulbs.

result, two filiments in series, 6V across them, reduced power to each. See early 00 saturn cars for this setup.

I recommend this setup because there are no parts getting hot like the resistor method.

 

hmm any more suggestions??

 

My 06 Accord has a setup like this where it uses high beams for DRL idk how they do it though.

 

still need someones advice whos done it before and it worked perfectly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no resistors required, no heating up of anything.
two relays total, one to route the ground of one bulb to the power of the other. The second to supply power to the two bulbs.

result, two filiments in series, 6V across them, reduced power to each. See early 00 saturn cars for this setup.

I recommend this setup because there are no parts getting hot like the resistor method.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aside from cheap bulbs suffering discoloration from running low voltage for extended periods, this is probably the cheapest, easiest, and closest to correct way to do DIY DRLs.

A proper DRL setup, uses the high beam pattern, but with a reduced power output. A more correct way would be to send pulsed power (square wave) to both bulbs, to reduce output. But running them in series will simply drop them down to 6VDC and also provide low enough output.

Just be certain that you retain normal highbeam functionality, and that they correctly turn off when the normal low beams are powered on. Blinding people, even with a lower output lamp, is not cool after dark, and high beams are designed to aim high enough that they will blind oncoming traffic.

 

damn..this sounds really confusing to me. lolz. any easier way and more understandable directions??

 

http://www.daytime-running-lights.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.daytime-running-lights.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

turn signal DRL's are nifty I think, but I don't know if the plastic turn signal housing can withstand the heat from the 21-watt filaments being illuminated all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

turn signal DRL's are nifty I think, but I don't know if the plastic turn signal housing can withstand the heat from the 21-watt filaments being illuminated all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the bulb holder is the part that takes the abuse. When I first started at this I made it so my park lamps turned on the tuen signal filiment. Bright as all hell with clear corners and piaa hyper white bulbs. After the second set of bulb holders went bad I switched it back to the stock setup with amber corners.
I used to get people high beam flashing me with just my park light on... But (at night) I very seldom got gut off and people almost never pulled out in front of me. Which happens a lot around here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turn signal DRL's are nifty I think, but I don't know if the plastic turn signal housing can withstand the heat from the 21-watt filaments being illuminated all the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The site offers DRL kits for turn signals, headlamps, and fog lamps.