K24Z1 Block Build. Worth Using?
Hi guys,
So I have a 2009 Honda CR-V RT-4WD (USDM) with the original K24Z1 in it that has 135k miles, and I want to turn it into a big turbo sleeper because I can. This build is gonna be fast, reliable, but not cheap.
I tried to look up info on the engine itself and couldn't find much, only that on Z blocks you have to relocate the oil filter and seal an oil port. You also have to change the pistons to fit a K20 head. And no way to fit an oil cooler (not sure if this is true)
I'm not sure how much power I want, but for now 550-600whp on pump E85 would be nice as long as I can gap Mopars. I'm planning to fully build the block myself with rods, pistons, sleeves, supporting mods and fully build and maybe port the K20Z3 head. And of course I'll be doing other stuff to the car like building the 4WD system and wiring. I know I can easily make 800whp+ with a fully built engine but reliability is very important to me.
I also have some more questions:
- If I want to use any other K24 block, will the OEM motor mounts interchange with any K24 engine? That was a concern as I don't want to make custom motor mounts.
- How much power can a bone stock turbo'ed K24Z1 take? (with only pistons, rods, and upgraded oil pump as I'm putting a K20Z3 head)
- What ECU options do I have for a K24Z1? Hondata?
- How much money in USD will the built engine and head cost? (considering both will be built by me. Under 10k? :D)
- What compression should I use?
- Is closed deck conversion mandatory for 550-600whp? 800whp?
- How much power can stock sleeves hold?
So the main question is should I use the Z1 block and fully build it? Or ditch it for a K24A2 block and fully build that?
So I have a 2009 Honda CR-V RT-4WD (USDM) with the original K24Z1 in it that has 135k miles, and I want to turn it into a big turbo sleeper because I can. This build is gonna be fast, reliable, but not cheap.
I tried to look up info on the engine itself and couldn't find much, only that on Z blocks you have to relocate the oil filter and seal an oil port. You also have to change the pistons to fit a K20 head. And no way to fit an oil cooler (not sure if this is true)
I'm not sure how much power I want, but for now 550-600whp on pump E85 would be nice as long as I can gap Mopars. I'm planning to fully build the block myself with rods, pistons, sleeves, supporting mods and fully build and maybe port the K20Z3 head. And of course I'll be doing other stuff to the car like building the 4WD system and wiring. I know I can easily make 800whp+ with a fully built engine but reliability is very important to me.
I also have some more questions:
- If I want to use any other K24 block, will the OEM motor mounts interchange with any K24 engine? That was a concern as I don't want to make custom motor mounts.
- How much power can a bone stock turbo'ed K24Z1 take? (with only pistons, rods, and upgraded oil pump as I'm putting a K20Z3 head)
- What ECU options do I have for a K24Z1? Hondata?
- How much money in USD will the built engine and head cost? (considering both will be built by me. Under 10k? :D)
- What compression should I use?
- Is closed deck conversion mandatory for 550-600whp? 800whp?
- How much power can stock sleeves hold?
So the main question is should I use the Z1 block and fully build it? Or ditch it for a K24A2 block and fully build that?
Okay fair enough, but I already knew some of the questions that I was asking, just asking for other people's opinions. And there aren't specifics there, like what compression to use and do all K24's hold 500whp on stock sleeves, or does it depend on the model? But here is some info I found.
https://www.k20a.org/threads/for-tho...inside.192770/
Sleepy Ep3 K24Z1 / K20Z3 Turbo Build SSM
And the other info is already typed. That's all I found. I also found some YouTube videos that were helpful, but not K24Z1 specific.
The first and second link is the best info I could find of someone using this block. No other examples unless you want me to search for hours. I just came here to see If I can get some quick and better info.
The second link had all engine parts listed. He said he was planning to make 450-500whp with that setup on a Precision 6266 turbo, with also a stock K20Z3 head. So I'm not suprised with what it can do built, I mean tbh it should work just fine like any other built K24 so I'm only expecting minor differences. I will probably end up sticking with it, but that's why I'm asking here to see anyone's opinion on it.
But seriously, there aren't much people running K24Z1 blocks that I could find. Everyone seems to use K24A's.
https://www.k20a.org/threads/for-tho...inside.192770/
Sleepy Ep3 K24Z1 / K20Z3 Turbo Build SSM
And the other info is already typed. That's all I found. I also found some YouTube videos that were helpful, but not K24Z1 specific.
The first and second link is the best info I could find of someone using this block. No other examples unless you want me to search for hours. I just came here to see If I can get some quick and better info.
The second link had all engine parts listed. He said he was planning to make 450-500whp with that setup on a Precision 6266 turbo, with also a stock K20Z3 head. So I'm not suprised with what it can do built, I mean tbh it should work just fine like any other built K24 so I'm only expecting minor differences. I will probably end up sticking with it, but that's why I'm asking here to see anyone's opinion on it.
But seriously, there aren't much people running K24Z1 blocks that I could find. Everyone seems to use K24A's.
It's a platform that is used by old ladies and has little to no aftermarket support.
The Z stuff moved the crank sensor to the flywheel end and changed the timing cover bolt pattern making the PCMs from earlier engines incompatible. They also added CAN bus for communication between PCM and the body making it incompatible with traditional engine swaps.
Hondata only covers the Z7 in the 9th gen SI and ILX. They don't offer anything for the CR-V.
So you are kind of down to using a standalone ECU to do anything with this platform. That means reverse engineering the CAN bus to make the instrument cluster work, and the AC, and the cruise control, and VSA, and ABS, and so on. It will be an uphill battle to do anything with the silver hair shuttles.
You also have an automatic, 2006 was the last of the manual transmissions in a CR-V. You should just quit now. That automatic isn't going to hold any additional power and there is nothing out there on the aftermarket to control it.
The Z stuff moved the crank sensor to the flywheel end and changed the timing cover bolt pattern making the PCMs from earlier engines incompatible. They also added CAN bus for communication between PCM and the body making it incompatible with traditional engine swaps.
Hondata only covers the Z7 in the 9th gen SI and ILX. They don't offer anything for the CR-V.
So you are kind of down to using a standalone ECU to do anything with this platform. That means reverse engineering the CAN bus to make the instrument cluster work, and the AC, and the cruise control, and VSA, and ABS, and so on. It will be an uphill battle to do anything with the silver hair shuttles.
You also have an automatic, 2006 was the last of the manual transmissions in a CR-V. You should just quit now. That automatic isn't going to hold any additional power and there is nothing out there on the aftermarket to control it.
Okay, but first of all these guys managed to figure out the wiring with their swap, so it's doable. Second of all I'm going to swap in a 2nd gen CR-V 5-speed in it. And third of all I took your advice and did some more research.
Reengineering the CAN bus is the only thing outside of my comfort zone, but all the other electrical stuff like physical wiring, sensors and the jumper harness doesn't look too bad to me. All the metal fabrication like clutch pedal assembly and custom transmission mounts also isn't too bad.
So if I do figure out how to translate the CAN bus coding from the OEM ECU to standalone, I'll at least translate in the bare minimum to get the car to work safely. After all I'll be taking a programming class soon.
Reengineering the CAN bus is the only thing outside of my comfort zone, but all the other electrical stuff like physical wiring, sensors and the jumper harness doesn't look too bad to me. All the metal fabrication like clutch pedal assembly and custom transmission mounts also isn't too bad.
So if I do figure out how to translate the CAN bus coding from the OEM ECU to standalone, I'll at least translate in the bare minimum to get the car to work safely. After all I'll be taking a programming class soon.
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It's a platform that is used by old ladies and has little to no aftermarket support.
The Z stuff moved the crank sensor to the flywheel end and changed the timing cover bolt pattern making the PCMs from earlier engines incompatible. They also added CAN bus for communication between PCM and the body making it incompatible with traditional engine swaps.
Hondata only covers the Z7 in the 9th gen SI and ILX. They don't offer anything for the CR-V.
So you are kind of down to using a standalone ECU to do anything with this platform. That means reverse engineering the CAN bus to make the instrument cluster work, and the AC, and the cruise control, and VSA, and ABS, and so on. It will be an uphill battle to do anything with the silver hair shuttles.
You also have an automatic, 2006 was the last of the manual transmissions in a CR-V. You should just quit now. That automatic isn't going to hold any additional power and there is nothing out there on the aftermarket to control it.
The Z stuff moved the crank sensor to the flywheel end and changed the timing cover bolt pattern making the PCMs from earlier engines incompatible. They also added CAN bus for communication between PCM and the body making it incompatible with traditional engine swaps.
Hondata only covers the Z7 in the 9th gen SI and ILX. They don't offer anything for the CR-V.
So you are kind of down to using a standalone ECU to do anything with this platform. That means reverse engineering the CAN bus to make the instrument cluster work, and the AC, and the cruise control, and VSA, and ABS, and so on. It will be an uphill battle to do anything with the silver hair shuttles.
You also have an automatic, 2006 was the last of the manual transmissions in a CR-V. You should just quit now. That automatic isn't going to hold any additional power and there is nothing out there on the aftermarket to control it.
Can make these crv look amazing but forget any kind of performance without dropping enough to just get same year rdx that start with 240 hp. It's why I've given up hope of upgrading my crv. To think they gave the k24a2 and 5 spd to the shoebox element but the much better looking crv got crap.
Pair that to the 4 speed automatic and you have a dangerously slow vehicle. I know because I own one. On the up side the low power and soft transmission with AWD makes for a killer snow and ice machine.
It's a platform that is used by old ladies and has little to no aftermarket support.
The Z stuff moved the crank sensor to the flywheel end and changed the timing cover bolt pattern making the PCMs from earlier engines incompatible. They also added CAN bus for communication between PCM and the body making it incompatible with traditional engine swaps.
Hondata only covers the Z7 in the 9th gen SI and ILX. They don't offer anything for the CR-V.
So you are kind of down to using a standalone ECU to do anything with this platform. That means reverse engineering the CAN bus to make the instrument cluster work, and the AC, and the cruise control, and VSA, and ABS, and so on. It will be an uphill battle to do anything with the silver hair shuttles.
You also have an automatic, 2006 was the last of the manual transmissions in a CR-V. You should just quit now. That automatic isn't going to hold any additional power and there is nothing out there on the aftermarket to control it.
The Z stuff moved the crank sensor to the flywheel end and changed the timing cover bolt pattern making the PCMs from earlier engines incompatible. They also added CAN bus for communication between PCM and the body making it incompatible with traditional engine swaps.
Hondata only covers the Z7 in the 9th gen SI and ILX. They don't offer anything for the CR-V.
So you are kind of down to using a standalone ECU to do anything with this platform. That means reverse engineering the CAN bus to make the instrument cluster work, and the AC, and the cruise control, and VSA, and ABS, and so on. It will be an uphill battle to do anything with the silver hair shuttles.
You also have an automatic, 2006 was the last of the manual transmissions in a CR-V. You should just quit now. That automatic isn't going to hold any additional power and there is nothing out there on the aftermarket to control it.
You are sort of correct about 3rd gen transmissions, 2006 was last yr of manual transmission for usdm, can find manual transmissions from other countries and import them, also level 10 transmissions in NYC makes a $600 kit for the stock auto good for 300hp and $5000 fully built transmission good for 500hp.
The rest of your info is spot on.
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ejeffone
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Nov 12, 2019 08:12 AM




