K24a8 block build questions
#1
K24a8 block build questions
Hey everyone, im planning on building a k24 i just picked up. Im doing a complete top to bottom rebuild and i need help on picking a few things. I am planning on boost and hopefully making a lot of power out of this build. So first question is that i was wondering on which rods to pick. Now there are the skunk 2 alpha rods which i heard are relatively new on the market. They do however say they are good for 900+ but they are an H beam rod which i heard are not good for more then 500. I was also looking at the brian crower h beams. I've heard good things about them but they are still H beams. Should i go with one of these or should i just pay the extra little bit for an I beam rod? Any input is appreciated.
Also I had a question about pistons. I've really only looked on Real Street but i cant really find any pistons that are meant for just a k24 block and head. The only ones they sell are for k24 blocks with k20 heads which im not doing. Who makes and sells pistons that are for k24 blocks with k24 heads?
Also what will i be able to rev this engine to? I wanna get as close as i can to 9500 rpm's
Also I had a question about pistons. I've really only looked on Real Street but i cant really find any pistons that are meant for just a k24 block and head. The only ones they sell are for k24 blocks with k20 heads which im not doing. Who makes and sells pistons that are for k24 blocks with k24 heads?
Also what will i be able to rev this engine to? I wanna get as close as i can to 9500 rpm's
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: K24a8 block build questions
Many people make far more than 500 HP on "H" beam style rods without failures of the rod itself. You didn't mention sleeving the block, so I am not sure how much more than 500 HP you intend to make. If you want to play it safe, or if you intend to make more than 700 HP, spend the extra $$$ and get an "I" beam Crower Billet or Manley TT.
As for your piston choice, piston manufacturers give specific block/head combinations so that they can provide a reasonably accurate target compression ratio AND they have created valve pockets to accommodate the valve angle/position of the head being used. Using a different head than they have advertised means that the compression may be off by a bit (2 to 3 tenths of a point +/-) and you may want to clay the engine once assembled to make sure there is no valve-to-piston contact (as well as cam induced valve-to-valve contact depending on how aggressive your cam choice is).
As for your piston choice, piston manufacturers give specific block/head combinations so that they can provide a reasonably accurate target compression ratio AND they have created valve pockets to accommodate the valve angle/position of the head being used. Using a different head than they have advertised means that the compression may be off by a bit (2 to 3 tenths of a point +/-) and you may want to clay the engine once assembled to make sure there is no valve-to-piston contact (as well as cam induced valve-to-valve contact depending on how aggressive your cam choice is).
#3
Re: K24a8 block build questions
Well I was planning on running a block guard. I've seen guys make 900 with stock sleeves on k series and daily drive them. But if is it ok to chose these Pistons that say they are for the k24 block with k20 head? Or should I just look for others?
And I plan to run pretty extreme cams because this will be a summer spring and fall driving for car only.
And I plan to run pretty extreme cams because this will be a summer spring and fall driving for car only.
#4
Re: K24a8 block build questions
Many people make far more than 500 HP on "H" beam style rods without failures of the rod itself. You didn't mention sleeving the block, so I am not sure how much more than 500 HP you intend to make. If you want to play it safe, or if you intend to make more than 700 HP, spend the extra $$$ and get an "I" beam Crower Billet or Manley TT.
As for your piston choice, piston manufacturers give specific block/head combinations so that they can provide a reasonably accurate target compression ratio AND they have created valve pockets to accommodate the valve angle/position of the head being used. Using a different head than they have advertised means that the compression may be off by a bit (2 to 3 tenths of a point +/-) and you may want to clay the engine once assembled to make sure there is no valve-to-piston contact (as well as cam induced valve-to-valve contact depending on how aggressive your cam choice is).
As for your piston choice, piston manufacturers give specific block/head combinations so that they can provide a reasonably accurate target compression ratio AND they have created valve pockets to accommodate the valve angle/position of the head being used. Using a different head than they have advertised means that the compression may be off by a bit (2 to 3 tenths of a point +/-) and you may want to clay the engine once assembled to make sure there is no valve-to-piston contact (as well as cam induced valve-to-valve contact depending on how aggressive your cam choice is).
And I plan to run pretty extreme cams because this will be a summer spring and fall driving for car only.
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: K24a8 block build questions
Well, for the bottom end I can tell you that a blockguard would not be wise. Your better of with nothing. They do more damage than they help. If you want real strength for your cylinders then Cylinder Support System is what you need. Proven to well over 800hp long term.
I would also recommend I-Beam rods if you are planning to run over 700whp, just because breaking a rod will destroy everything in the bottom end so why not spend the extra money on that part.
I would also recommend I-Beam rods if you are planning to run over 700whp, just because breaking a rod will destroy everything in the bottom end so why not spend the extra money on that part.
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