Zen_Life

Alright... So I've found a fairly cheap k20 for 800 dollars. On a scale of 1-10, what's the difficulty on doing the actual swap and what does the transmission normally go for? Would I need to do a fuel cell upgrade to counter having to swap the fuel pump to a better one? Where could I get the motor mounts for it as well since I know it won't bolt straight to the stock d15 mounts that are in the car presently? I need to know these answers before I make my decision on what swap I'll be doing. Putting 220hp to the front wheels sounds a little better than 140, especially since sourcing out parts will be easier to find, even though they will be a little more expensive.

doctorake

1 to 10 from what I have seen it is an 8 or so in terms of swaps. You will also need to buy a ton of parts.

doctorake

I found this parts list on k20a.org


ENGINE/TRANNY (All gaskets/seals are considered "known to be needed" items)
----------------
K-series engine(K24/K20)
K-series tranny(Type-R/RSX-S/RSX Base)
K-series engine harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series charging harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series Alternator(For Engine of Choice)
K-series Starter(For Engine of Choice)
K-series ECU(RSX PRB 02-04) Plus Hondata K-Pro(Or JDM K-series ECU)
CRV Passenger side engine mount(needed for non-CRV K24 swaps)
Header(R-crew/DC/SSR)
Clutch/Flywheel(RSX-S)
RSX Type-S Oxygen Sensor(Primary)
RSX Type-S Knock Sensor(Only if not using RSX-S engine, Or repin stock Knock sensor)
RSX Type-S Clutch Slave Cylinder
RSX Type-S Halfshaft
RSX BASE Axles(For EG only, Swap inner joints) Or...
RSX-S Axles w/ B-series Outers(For EG again, Also rec. swapping inner joints)
RSX Type-S Throttle Body(Or Accord throttle body, depending on engine/intake)
RSX-S Intake Manifold(Or RBC/TSX/Accord)
Karcepts Throttle Body Adapter(only if using RBC)
Engine Mounts(Hybrid/Avid/Hasport)
Harness Conversion(Hybrid/Hasport/Sparkks)
Clutch Line(Hybrid Racing)

RADIATOR/COOLING (This is for using stock radiator)
-----------
Hasport Billet Hose Adapter(For Stock B/D series Fan switch/coolant temp sensor)
Perma-Cool PRM-19120 11"x10" Fan
TOP Rad Hose - RSX Type-S Top Hose(for EK/EG)
BOTTOM Rad Hose - 99-00 Civic Si Top Hose(for EK/EG)

SHIFTER PARTS
-----------
Karcepts Shifter mounting kit
RSX Type-S Shifter Box
RSX-S 02-04 Shifter Cables
Shift Parts to Connect Cables (OEM, easy)

EXHAUST PARTS (Must be custom welded, Can substitute for 2.5")
-----------
Kteller 3" Stainless Piping
3" in/out Muffler
Catalytic Converter if you choose to use one.

FUEL SYSTEM PARTS (Using stock fuel rail, minimum costs)
------------
(www.summitracing.com)
EAR-991945ERL - Converts OEM fuel filter to -6 AN fitting
EAR-165056ERL - Converts OEM fuel rail to -6 AN fitting
RUS-610020 x 4 - Straight -6 AN Hose couplers
SUM-220166N x 3 - Straight cut -6 AN to -6 An hose, Ports on FPR.
RUS-610160 - 90 Degree -6 AN Coupler from fuel filter to FPR.
RUS-632070 - 10 feet -6 AN Hose
AEI-13109 - Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Walbro 190/255lph Fuel Pump(It's cheap, and worth it - www.hybrid-performance.com)

IF REMOVING POWER STEERING(with no A/C)
-------------
EP3 Idler pulley/bracket
Manual Steering rack, Or Loop P/S rack
K24 = 52" Serpentine Belt(works perfectly on mine)
K20 = 50.5" Serpentine Belt

IF KEEPING POWER STEERING (No A/C - With a current P/S rack)
-------------
K20 PS Pump
Jackson Racing Pulley - P/N: 052-154 (This will clear an EG hood with K20 swap, no hole...only cutting.)
52" Serpentine Belt(only for K20 - K24 = Unknown?)
02-04 RSX High pressure hose
3/8" I.D. hose
Oil cooler from Perma-Cool Industries P/N:1007 (for P/S fluid return line)

Fluid NEEDS:
-------
POWER STEERING FLUID - 2 Bottles
DOT3 Brake fluid - 2 Bottles
Coolant 50/50 Mix - 2 Bottles(3 to be safe/cover leaking or spillage)
MTF - 3 Bottles
OIL - 6 Quarts

RANDOM HOSES (Not totaly acurate for ALL swap configurations, keep in mind O.D. and I.D. measurements)
-------
10' 3/16" I.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)
10' 1/4" I.D. Hose
10' 3/8" I.D. Hose
5' 3/4" O.D. Hose
5' 1" O.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)

MISC BOLTS/Parts (This is mainly used if you buy Engine/Trans apart from one another)
-------
90034-P10-A01 X 6 clutch bolts
90011-PNA-B00 x 8 flywheel bolts
22103-PNA-003 pilot bearing
95701-12060-08 x4 tranny bolts
95701-12085-08 x 2 starter bolts
90027-PND-A00 starter bolt long
90025-PNA-000 bolt
95701-08055-08 x 2
90008-PNA-000 x 2 alternator bolts
90008-PPA-000 bolt
21351-PNB-000 cover for tranny to connect k24a with k20a2 type s tranny(only K24)
95701-06012-08 x 3 bolts

doood

iTrader: (1)

What k20 did you get for $800?

Eddie

This.

Is there something wrong with the motor? High millage possibly?

Zen_Life

Nothing wrong with it. Just a long block with the extra stuff.

List of parts included:

Complete Engine
- Cylinder Head
- Intake Manifold
- Block
- Sensors
- Exhaust Manifold
- Fuel Rail
- Injectors
- Throttle Body
- Alternator
- Ignition Wires
- Pulleys
- Valve cover
- Oil Pan

doood

iTrader: (1)

lol you got the crappy a3

Zen_Life

i didn't get anything lol i research before i buy lol

Zen_Life

and also... it's a JDM K20A... Not USDM.

Zen_Life

doood

iTrader: (1)

it's the jdm equivalent to the usdm k20a3 out of the base rsx.

short and sweet:

- vtec only on intake side
- not even real vtec. think of it as the old vtec-e system, but in a k. "vtec" engages at 2200 rpm and opens all 16 valves, before that it only runs on 12 and is intended for fuel economy. not performance oriented.

sorry to burst your bubble but i hope you didnt think you got an awesome deal on anything special.

MiNeSEK

Good luck!

stayontrack

For 800 you might be able to find a k24a1/4/8. The vtec works the same as the k20a3 (and the motor you posted) the way doood described but it has more torque.

Zen_Life

just to clarify things, I DID NOT purchase the motor. I found it and was wondering what the difficulty would be to do the swap. I'm actually interested at a MUCH later date to do a K20 swap and source out the AWD components to do a AWD K20 Turbo'd. Just clarifying that. Thank you.

H.Veras

The swap itself is not hard once you get all the parts needed and if you know what you are doing. As for getting all the parts and everything, contact Hybrid Racing, they sell everything you need and they have a guide that can walk you through the whole process. Do your research before you buy because some serious money is involved in doing this swap. I would estimate around $5K to do this. Hope this helps.

TommyEp3

K-series FTW

maui808ek9

Good luck

Lilbro

That thing is going to be a lil beast once you get everything up and running.

J-RAD

do not go through the trouble of putting the k20a3 or "jdm k20a" equivalent in your car. You will be disappointed. Use the money to save for a k20a/k20a2 or k24 block to slap a k20a/k20a2 head on later.

Fliptard

it may not be the best engine, but at least it's a cheap start to do the swap. Once everything is swapped in and running right, I would look for a better engine.

doood

iTrader: (1)

why do the job twice and spend twice the money?

Fliptard

cheap motor to do the swap and make sure everything works. While beating on shiity motor, find a better one and build it till the cheap one blows

doood

iTrader: (1)

your logic is flawed. maybe it's just me, but spending more money than i have to just doesnt make any kind of sense.

Fliptard

well, he already bought the motor, unless he can find a better one cheap, might as well use it.

pogeeboy27

iTrader: (3)