CRISTON

So i have a 98 Honda Ex which apparently tuned on a chipped ECU but it Idles crazy sometimes upwards of 2k. So i was wondering to either go with a P75 chip or P28 wit bin for a B20. It is an all motor setup.

n*werk

making no sense. more detailed information would be nice. Example: what ecu are you running now? are you running a jumper harness ecu? engine mods? thanks

CRISTON

Sorry, its a P28 and yes its jumped

CRISTON

Has intake and headers as well no Cams as of yet but thinking about changing them.

n*werk

no check engine light? with the mods you have, i suggest buying or finding a stock 96-98 ex ECU. No need for a chip ecu, not worth the headache if running stock for now.

CRISTON

None at all. But once i do change the Cams what would be a good ECU to start off with?

n*werk

are you running the stock d16y8 motor or is it swapped?

CRISTON

Its a swapped B20b

n*werk

i thought you were running a stock d16y8, it important to be really detailed on here so user can help guide you in the right direction. I was wondering why you want to put cam on a stock d16y8. Did you swap the b20 yourself or did it come like that? When did you the crazy idle start happening?

CRISTON

Bought the car in November and it starts acting up when its really cold but when he car has warmed up its ok somewhat.

n*werk

Ok i give you tech help, just wanna add post count. I had the same darn issue on my B20 swap for the longest time and was to lazy to look into it but finally i gave in and the problem was easy. Your fast idle thermal valve is located under your throttle body probably pop out of place. 2 8mm bolt on the side of the plate and screw it back in to place.

CRISTON

Oooo ok thank you so much. Will tighten and go from there.

n*werk

what the update?

CRISTON

That was it!!! Cleaned it while is was there too. Is this something that will constantly happen under heavy acceleration or normal wear?

n*werk

it happen once a month for me so i decide to switch throttle body out and used one that doesn't have FITV and that will fix your problem unless you want to buy a new FITV. If you have anymore question regarding your car please post them here and i try to help you, it look like you keep on jacking other people thread. Better if you have your own thread instead of looking like a troll. As far as your cam is concern, you would need to get spring and retainer, Chip Ecu so you can adjust fuel and timing, and whole bunch of other things. I hope you don't think its a simple drop in. A lot of factors to consider when upgrading parts, remember it suppose to be an upgrade not a degrade. What are your goals (HP)? You want a DD beast or an all out drag or maybe a competitive circuit car? things to consider when modifying your car and be sure to know what you want to achieve.

CRISTON

Thanks for the heads up. What would be a good throttle body to use since it came pretty much stock? And as far as build ii was thinking.
1. Crower stage 2 cams, springs and retainers
2. Skunk 2 cam Gears
3.Skunk 2 Manifold with throttle body
4. AEM fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator (maybe aftermarket fuel pump)
5. P75 chip
I want it to be a functional dd wit hp gains to about 190-200 horsepower.

JuggerNaut-CTR

If your going to remain stock CR I wouldnt go more than crower 403's
With what you've described you want to do, any changes to your fuel system at this point would be a waste of money.

Your going to need to throw a ton more money at it to hit your power goal of 190-200hp. Need alot higher CR, much bigger cams that work best with the high CR and tons of flow. Would be much easier to hit that goal if you went b20v.

CRISTON

Ok so givin i want to keep it non vtech (short on cash) what would be a good setup for descent hp gains. Only reason for not going b20v is because i know your r/s ratio will have to change plus sleeving and swapping alot more parts if i am not mistaken.

n*werk

You will not achieve your goal with those mods. 190-200whp on a b20 non vtec would require a ton of work. I would also get rid of number 4. and instead of wasting money on fuel rail and pressure regulator, i would get bigger injectors.

n*werk

its cheaper to go B20 vtec, then upgrading the parts on your stock b20 head if your trying to achieve 190-200whp. Plus with the b20vtec, your goal of 190-200whp is more likely to happen. You don't need to sleeve your block and there not much to it. Just grow some ***** and do it. B20vtec.com has tons of info on how to do the swap or you can search here on honda-tech.com for more info.

CRISTON

Lol Got it thats all i was worried about .