I just finished a swap and the motor turns on but with a bad idle and super rich! So rich that the hole back yard gets smote out and i think i smote a few squirles!

Either way, i checked the ecu (PR3) and as soon as i turn the ignition to the "on" position, the ecu's LED turns on steady, turn on the car and the LED stays on steady, at no point in time will it blink at all.

The check engine light on the dash also stays on steady.

What do you guys think this could be?
Here are the following things i checked so far and seemed to be fine:

-Ignition
-Fuel
-Injectors have been replaced, multiple times
-Injector resistor box was replaced
-ECU was also replaced (made no diffrence)
-Checked all ground wires
-Checked all sensors and connectors
-Every cyl is firing
-Don't see any wire grounding out

What would you pro's recommend?


[Modified by OldSchoolSwap, 1:39 AM 12/18/2002]

 

It also idles rough and won't rev past 3 k.

 

im willing to bet its your TPS sensor or your MAP sensor

your CEL light is on, you need to check the code.

 

First make sure you are making a good connection with the jumper wire. If it still stays on solid with no blinks, that means the ECU is bad. See if you can get another one from someone and test with that ECU and see what happens.

 

I got another ecu to test with and it does the same (steady on) no blinks.
The PR3 does not need to be jumped. The codes should flash through the ecu window.

 

I though about that too.... don't know how to test it at this point.

And how do i check for codes if it wont blink?

 

Update:
Well, looks like my injectors took a ****!
Yep! did i mention my injectors are taking a crap?

I'v replaced a full set allready and they go dead one by one untill non of them work and the engine won't start anymore unless i replace them again.

 

You have either a bad power or ground wire to the ECU. Was the car a DX?

brian g


[Modified by brian g, 6:11 AM 12/19/2002]

 

no no no
injectors dont just die one after another
i agree with brian, it sounds like a bad power/ground wire

 

humm......
I have an Lx-i http://vtecnos.tripod.com

 

which model, DX, CX, Si ... ?

have you check all your power (+12v) pins ? have you forced a c/e code ? like unplug your map sensor or IACV to see if it triggers.

greg

 

Like i said, i have an Lxi Accord with an SiR motor 1st gen non OBD B16

Yes, i tried that allready and no codes at all, just a steady no blink LED red light!

 

so you did all the wiring for it ? and you're using the LX-i instr cluster ? what year accord ?

 

No, i'm using PlaceRacing's Harness conversion. I have an 88 Accord Lxi
Yes, i'm using the Accord's cluster.

 

ok thats may be the problem ... I've seen many times there were problems with Place Racing's harnesses, you need to speak to them to diagnose it because 90% sure its the conversion harness as I've seent his happen at leat 3 times b4 but not with your application

greg

 

Ah! thats good to know.
Well, i called them and they said to try the civic resistor box first. If that didn't work, they said that they can take a look at the harness for me and redo it if anything is wrong.

I then started doing research on the 88-91 civic resistor box and found out that its the same specs as my 89 accord. Both have resistance between 5-7 ohms.

Fisically they look diffrent, but spec wise they are the same. I don't know if to try it at this point.

 

no its not the resistor box, send it back ...

greg

 

Well, just got the civic box and it does the same ****! Turns on but ******* bad idle under 250 rpm wants to turn off.
ECU still has the LED on without a blink. I guess i have no choice but to send it back.

 

your best bet is to try the car out with the stock accord ecu just to see if there are any codes ... although its a non vtec it should start ... I think the exh gas sensor is the only thing not connected.

instead of the PR harness make your own ... or goto locash@locashracing to have him make you a (proper) harness adapter

greg

 

Your car is running in limp mode for some reason... The ECU hasn't been chipped has it... In some cases if you miss even one of the pins on the ROM your car will run in limp mode just as it would without a ROM... ~3200 rev limit is no fun... Listen to CHEETAH tho, he knows what he's talkin about... Good Luck

 

Both of my PR3's are stock.
I thank you all for all your replies, it has helped tremendously. I wish i knew someone local in Miami that has this swap in a CRX or any 1st gen B16.
That would help me so much at this point

 

Question:
I found a chart http://members.fortunecity.fr/mcdo/i...da/pin-out.htm
shows each and every pin on the PR3.
Can i take out every pin and just keep the vital ones that will keep the engine running? Can i take out the following pins and try to turn on the car? I know it will probably throw a gazilion codes, but it'll be better than a steady "ON" no blink LED! (bad ecu code).
This could actually get me somewhere.

A8-VTEC Spool Solenoid Valve
B3-A/C Clutch Relay
B5-VTEC Pressure Switch
B8-AC Switch (ACS)
B16-Speed Sensor
B19-Knock Sensor
C5-Intake Air Temp Sensor
C7-TPS Sensor
C8-O2 Sensor
C9- Oil psi switch
C10-Brake switch

 

I do swaps for a living and can tell you as for jdm 1stgen b16 that we get 1out of 5 has injectors that are stuck so if it is stuck injectors then just tap them lightly on the side with a hammer and an extension while some one is cranking the car. Check for injector pulse by taking a small12v lightbulb like a sidemarker and connect it to the cars wiring for injectors thenlook for the blinking as you turn the ignition.check the ohms on the resistorbox ,ohms on injectors and finally contitunity on the injectors negative and the negative terminal on the battery.check the location on the ground by the thermostat housing.there are two places you can ground it and you may be in the wrong spot.Also check the tps if the outer wires have been placed in reverse.the yellow should be at the top the red in the middle and green at the bottom.test the map sensor too.

 

make sure that the plugs are at their corresponding sensor!! I did a b16 swap and had this problem too, my motor would not rev past 3Krpm's(sounded lik e it was hitting rev limiter). I had switched the IAVC and the TA sensor plugs by mistake.

 

Allright guys, i'll give all that a try tomorrow. Thanks