Undrgrndhaqer

92 civic VX w/ 95 b18c1...
Still throwing code for H02s. Me and DropSquadCivic did the o2 rewiring and the car still throws the code. I got a 4 wire o2 from a friend of his and we repinned the vx harness so the 4 wires would line up when plugged in together. We used a chiltons manual for the vx that had the wiring schematics and a shop manual for the gsr that has everything in it. So, I know we aligned the wires right. I'm thinking that maybe the connectors arn't sending enough continuity to the ecu or the o2 is bad.
Situation & Process:
Got the bosch 4 wire o2 from his friend but the wires were cut between the plug and the actual o2. So what I got was an o2 with 4 short wires sticking out. The actual wire was silver in color. I took the original o2 and cut the wires between the actual o2 and plug. Then, we connected the new o2 with the cut wires to the plug with cut wires. We connected them with "telephone" connectors.(they look clear with a big round red button on top that you pinch to connect the wires that you slip in the hole. They also have gel inside the connector for continuity issues...anyways) We then repinned the engine harness plug from 7-wire to 4-wire. Then, we connected the plugs. (I know we repinned and lined up correctly because we had the two books and "VtecVillian" old vx-gsr o2 document. So, that is the situation. The check engine light did go off for about 10 seconds but came back on. I did allow the motor to warm up for activation of o2, but still nothing. We double checked the ecu for codes and it still came out to be code 41 only... Anyone experience this problem? I heard we should check with voltmeter, but don't know what to check.
Thanks to anyone who can help. I have been dealing with this "running rich" issue since I did my swap a year and a half ago.

Ugh

PHiZ

What wires on the O2 sensor, do you have going to what pin on the ECU, or elsewhere (i.e. drawing 12v).

Where did you tap for 12 volts.

Remember, the signal off the O2 sensor is very delicate, and sensitive to interferance. It is a signal going from 0-1 volt, very little margin of error. You need to replace the vampire/splice (telephone) connectors, the gel is for water absorption, not conductivity ( I believe)

I had a very similar problem, replace the connections with a better connection method. Butt conectors worked for me, but soldering is ALWAYS best.

Quick trick, tin (get solder on) one wire, do the same to the other wire, press them together and then put the iron on the joint, they'll fuse.

Post that info, just so we can double check you're wiring, it shouldn't be hard.

-PHiZ

Undrgrndhaqer

Alright, here we go:

D14 (org/blu) at o2 plug (engine harness side) - wht (4 wire o2 plug)

D22 (grn/wht) at o2 plug (engine harness side) - grn (4 wire o2 plug)

A6 (yel/blk) at o2 plug (engine harness side) - blk (4 wire o2 plug)

There are 2 blk wires and either one can make either connection. The second blk wire needs to be connected at B1 or A25 (12v). The easiest thing to do is unpin D16(blue/grn) at the ecu and tap it into B1(yel/blk) or A25(yel/blk). Then on the engine harness side o2 connector, connect the org wire to the blk o2 wires.

Ugh

92b16vx

Here is a link ot a write up I did after I did mine. It is from a B16A into a VX, but it should be the same as far as the power supply. It sucks but the VX has this little unique glitch, but since I re wired it no problems what so ever.

http://www.hondaswap.com/forum...14242

VTECVillain

Here's a write up I did a while back. If you do it right, you should have no problems

Converting 1992-95 VX to 4 wire O2 using VX engine harness

All wires are present except for the power input, but all wiring can be done using the existing wires in the engine and cabin harness. The following wiring will trace the wires, color-coded, from the engine harness side of the shock tower plug to the O2 sensor you are wiring. Most all wires have color changes at each junction.

D14 - ORG/BLU at O2 plug (engine harness side) - WHT (4 wire O2 plug)
D22 - GRN/WHT at O2 plug (engine harness side) - GRN (4 wire O2 plug)
A6 - YEL/BLK at O2 plug (engine harness side) - BLK (4 wire O2 plug)

There are 2 BLK wires and either one can make either connection. The second BLK wire needs to be connected at B1 or A25. The easiest thing to do is unpin D16 (BLU/GRN) at the ECU and tap it into B1 (YEL/BLK) or A25 (YEL/BLK). Then on the engine harness side O2 connector, connect the ORG wire to the BLK O2 wire.

DropSquadCivic

^^^^we tried that^^^^
still not working.....i guess we can wire it straight to the ecu, and if that doesn't work we can check the connectors...

Undrgrndhaqer

I say we just use a voltmeter, check what we have from there, and change those "telephone" connectors out. After that, then we can look into something more drastic.

DropSquadCivic

that's fine....we can also check the continuity from the plug to the ecu

EE_Chris

#1. Don't use connectors....Solder instead.

#2. Using your voltmeter, measure the resistance between the two black wires on the O2 (disconnected from engine wire harness)...should read about 14-30 ohms.

Aside from making sure that the heater resistance is in spec, I'd move on to verifying wiring integrity.

white99gsr

i had the same exact issue in my cx/gsr swap. 41 is the HEATER ELEMENT, it has nothing to do with the O2 reading. the two wires that are same in color are the heater. it doesnt matter which one is grounded and which is 12v switched. i just ran them straight to the ECU (easiest) and grounded one to the MAP Sensor ground and the other to a 12v switched by the igniton (it was yel/blk, dont remember the exact pin #).

Undrgrndhaqer

Well, we tried for a long while to solder those wires, but the type of wire that is used by the o2 sensor doesn't take to solder. It just beads up and falls off. Different type of wire on those o2 sensors.
Also, white99gsr what year was your gsr? 99? they might have different setups, but your setup sounds pretty similar to mine. I guess we will actually have to run some wires straight to the ecu and back.
Thanks for the help fellas.

Undrgrndhaqer

Could you emphasize more on that white99gsr? I am confused at what you are trying to tell me. I believe we did the hookup right. If we did anything different, please point that out as it could be detremental to finally fixing my car.
Thnx

Undrgrndhaqer

Well, today, all day, we tried every imaginable possibility of making the car not run rich and it still did. Instead of just throwing a code 41, it now throws code 1 (bad o2) and code 14 (IACV). We tested each wire for continuity, we re-ran all the wires and soldered instead of using connectors and still nothing. Finally, we said screw it and ran the wires directly from the ecu like "white99gsr" suggested, and that is where we left off. Now, with the wires running directly from the ecu to the o2 sensor, we get those 3 codes and still runs very rich. Just to describle how rich it actually runs, the a/f gauge stays at one green bar at rich. It runs so rich, that it is beyond richness measuring as far as the a/f gauge goes. This problem is really becoming a nusense and I can think of nothing else to fix the problem. By the way, we tested the o2 sensor by using its 2 black wires for a power source, and a ground, then checked its voltage by measuring the other two exposing wires. It reads what its suppose to and the problem still remains. Any suggestions?
I am thinking of just getting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and turn it down a few notches and hopefully that would fix the richness problem... what do you think?

diycx

I kept getting code 41 and it drove me nuts for a long time. I finally tried doing a valve adjustment and it seems to have worked somewhat. I don't get any codes anymore and it runs within "stoic"(sp?) range but it doesn't rove back and forth in a closed loop. So I there's still something wrong but I don't get any codes and it runs better. Hope that helps. Good Luck

Undrgrndhaqer

Already tried that.

DropSquadCivic

I know we did it right but it still taps like ****!

2camsaam

QUESTION:
I have an EX w/ EX harness, EX chasis wiring, P30 ECU, and EX O2 sensor (not the O2 sensor that came w/ the swap because that O2 was throwing code # 1).
Why am I getting a code 41? Should I need to wire anything?

oldbeefcake

I have a 92 Vx with a 99 GSR, I use to have the same problem too, but I fixed by repining one of the wires, forgot which one. I remember I had to take one wire from one of the plugs at passenger shock tower and repin it to a different plug. Also make sure your O2 is working. They could be damaged easily. If you live in Orlando, I'll let you see my car. I used the GSR engine harness, I hope you are not using the VX engine harness.

Jonathan_ED3

code 41 freakin sucks.

I had it on my H22 swap, and I tried to rewire stuff and screwed up everything.

Now I've got code 41 on my BONE STOCK VX.

I don't get it....I'm not even going to mess with it though. I don't want to risk anything.

Undrgrndhaqer

I think im going to just try and buy an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and see if that fixes the problem. I thought about doing it a year ago when I first had the problem, but I thought a solution could be found in the fuel system. But, since I can't figure out the wiring and so forth, I am just going to try the regulator.
That is intriguing though that you had to change a wire on the main wire setup on the shock tower for it to work. It makes sense. SEe if you can't figure out which wire it was that you had to change out. That may just be the problem I am having.

92b16vx

I'm telling you, rewire that one wire in the link I posted, and it should go away.

Undrgrndhaqer

I did exactly that, and it didn't work. Finally, we just ran the o2 wires straight from the ecu to the plug to see if that would work. It didn't and now throws 3 codes. Something is up, but I know we did it right. The only thing I can think of is we used these piggyback splicers to the wires and I can't be sure if they worked or not, but we got a reading off the voltmeter. I guess I will have to just redo it from scratch, but if it still throws an o2 circuitry problem, then I don't know what we did wrong. We have redid this twice already.

EE_Chris

As I said previously, do NOT use connectors, solder instead. Do you honestly have a meter? You say "...I can't be sure if they worked or not, but we got a reading off the voltmeter"....well, what was the reading? What resistance did you measure the heater circuit to be? You now have new codes....what are they?

Undrgrndhaqer

ee_chris, please dont second my determination. If you would have read my post previously, I stated the extra codes and what they were. Also, me and my cousin (electrician) soldered the o2 wires and we used the actual plug to connect the wires from the o2 to the harness. He tested the wires because he understands what readings they should get so I never understood really what he was doing with the voltmeter as I have no experience in impedence and such.
Please reply if you can only help. No negative feedback please

AMG

well I had been having the same kind of problems:

Except I was throwing codes 8 and 10

I couldnt figure out why untill my local shop pulgged up a different ecu and vualla.....no codes!

You could have a bad ecu, atleast thats what happened to me........