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Starting on my H22A EG swap end of this month, need help and checkups.

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Old 03-07-2005, 08:16 AM
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Default Starting on my H22A EG swap end of this month, need help and checkups.

By the last 1 or 2 week of march i will start ordering parts for the H22A swap. The current budget would be around 1400-1600 dollars. with hoping to get more early April.

I already have these current parts.

complete 93 H22A1 USDM from neldogg including shift linkage, entire engine harness, ecu.

Current stuff i will need to complete the swap.

springs: Ground Control where can i get decent prices? or omni power?

2 front kyb agx shocks (already have 2 in rear) 99.95 ea (199.90 total minus shipping, dont know the costs from summitracing.com

hcp mounts (budget reasons) 270 shipped from jdmshit.com or are they not trustable sources? i have seen some good and bad some really bad reviews.

magna flow muffler plus pre bent 2.25 or 2.5 inch piping from kteller.com

mild steel 2.25 or 2.50 piping for 235.00, stainless steel for 265.00

For installed resonators, add 65.00
http://www.kteller.com/store/i...6_152

Oval mild steel muffler from magnaflow 75.00

375.00 plus 32 shipping with installed resonator and 2.25 mild steel piping and muffler.

DSS stage 1 axles 399.98, shipping???

prelude intermediate shaft, well i have one but it does not spin smoothly. so i dont know if it still is actually good. there is a guy selling another one, and he asked me to make a offer. what should i offer him?

misc gaskets like head, im, header, tb, vc, misc.. from hondaautomotiveparts.com approx 100-150 dollars.

some other misc from autozone like dremel bits, cutoff wheels, oil, coolant, etc should run another 100.

valve guide seal removal tool???


the base total comes out to about 1500-1600.


I'd rather go with mild steel piping and muffler and no resonator and straight pipe on a stock header for now. then later this summer i can add on a resonator.

Springs.. well i was thinking about getting custom ground controls specifically setup for EG with h22a. but that will run me around 300-500 dollars. i have not gotten the quote back yet. My other thought was going with omni power coils for now and replace with ground controls next year. or this summer.

I am very desperate for VTEC power and torque because i have been driving this pitty D15B7 for a little over 2 yrs. i neeeeed power so badddd. I am so sick of having to floor that little motor alot to get on the freeways. its still pretty quick, 16.0 in the quarter with 13 inch wheels.i have 15 inch wheels on now.


now there is a another concern based on the fuel system, and the cooling system.

Is the stock civic fuel pump good enough? i suspect its not. so a walboro 190lph runs for about 100. Is it really necessary. yes i will probably bring it up to redline at least a few times. maybe more... ummm heh.

cooling, is the orginal civic radiator good enough? at least for until this summer when i will buy a fluidyne and ultra thin fan. The radiator i have now is half, not full.

timing belt looks good, looks new, neldogg thinks it was replaced recent before he tore it out of the lude.

I will be doing the rebuild on the head. possiblity try and do valve seat resurfacing my self. i hve done it on small 4stroke engines before. I dont know if its any much difference. its just a suction tip and suck it on the bottom of the valve and then put compound on it and place it on the valve seat and spin it around with hands like burning a wood. Or no is it not recommened? I know how engine works, and have done a lot of work on several different engines. but never done a seating myself for automobile engine. I bought a L valve compressor from sears. but now i dont know if its the right one. I already have new valve guide seals. but i dont have the tool to remove it or install. where can i get one?

sorry this is a long post lol. any help is strongly appreciated!
Old 03-07-2005, 08:26 AM
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Default Re: Starting on my H22A EG swap end of this month, need help and checkups. (VTECR021)

not to be an *******, but there is a huge sticky at the top of this forum that probably contains everything you need or want to know.

with that being said, I'd go with a delsol VTEC radiator. It is shaped like a civic radiator but is double the thickness. If you upgrade the fuel pump, you will probably run rich, so you would want to get an FPR or something to take care of that.

this topic has been beaten to death. please read the sticky
Old 03-07-2005, 08:33 AM
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yeah i know i have read it, but i wanted some direct info to my decisions and stuff. so i could decide better and faster.

Also its parts specified on trying to help me find better places for better price so i can get more fitted in my budget.
Old 03-07-2005, 08:39 AM
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Default Re: (VTECR021)

well, there is debate as to whether or not it is necessary to upgrade the fuel pump. I did it, and now I have to take measures to avoid running rich. Some stick with the stock pump. I picked up a delsol VTEC rad for $99 bucks (not from Honda of course). I believe some people run the stock rad, but I wouldn't. As you can see, I like to be on the safe side.

You'll need a thin fan too. I got an FAL one, but I think there are cheaper alternatives (pep boys maybe?)
Old 03-07-2005, 09:30 AM
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Default Re: Starting on my H22A EG swap end of this month, need help and checkups. (VTECR021)

for mounts i used hcp and haven't had a problem. as for radiator its up to you if you are any good at fabricating you can do as i did and use an integra radiator with a civic flex-a-lite fan.
Old 03-07-2005, 09:45 AM
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Default Re: Starting on my H22A EG swap end of this month, need help and checkups. (hondafan13)

lol

bolt fan to rad, install rad, cut/install hoses <--not exacly what I would consider fabrication.
Old 03-07-2005, 10:59 AM
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Default Re: Starting on my H22A EG swap end of this month, need help and checkups. (VTECR021)

Originally Posted by VTECR021
By the last 1 or 2 week of march i will start ordering parts for the H22A swap. The current budget would be around 1400-1600 dollars. with hoping to get more early April.

I already have these current parts.

complete 93 H22A1 USDM from neldogg including shift linkage, entire engine harness, ecu.

Current stuff i will need to complete the swap.
You dont' need this:
springs: Ground Control where can i get decent prices? or omni power?
2 front kyb agx shocks (already have 2 in rear) 99.95 ea (199.90 total minus shipping, dont know the costs from summitracing.com

hcp mounts (budget reasons) 270 shipped from jdmshit.com or are they not trustable sources? i have seen some good and bad some really bad reviews.
I believe these are the only authorized HCP dealers and they are a great seller

magna flow muffler plus pre bent 2.25 or 2.5 inch piping from kteller.com
mild steel 2.25 or 2.50 piping for 235.00, stainless steel for 265.00
For installed resonators, add 65.00
http://www.kteller.com/store/i...6_152
Oval mild steel muffler from magnaflow 75.00
375.00 plus 32 shipping with installed resonator and 2.25 mild steel piping and muffler.
Get 2.5" mild steel

DSS stage 1 axles 399.98, shipping???

Again, not a requirement, but they are nice. I got mine for $420 shipped

misc gaskets like head, im, header, tb, vc, misc.. from hondaautomotiveparts.com approx 100-150 dollars.
some other misc from autozone like dremel bits, cutoff wheels, oil, coolant, etc should run another 100.
Sounds like a plan, but don't replace your headgasket.

valve guide seal removal tool???
Why?


the base total comes out to about 1500-1600.


I'd rather go with mild steel piping and muffler and no resonator and straight pipe on a stock header for now. then later this summer i can add on a resonator.
Save a little longer and get the resonator now, you'll save yourself $50 in reinstallation charges

Springs.. well i was thinking about getting custom ground controls specifically setup for EG with h22a. but that will run me around 300-500 dollars. i have not gotten the quote back yet. My other thought was going with omni power coils for now and replace with ground controls next year. or this summer.
I've been in an eg w/ omnipower coilovers. It rode like it was on rails, but it was a little bit rough
I am very desperate for VTEC power and torque because i have been driving this pitty D15B7 for a little over 2 yrs. i neeeeed power so badddd. I am so sick of having to floor that little motor alot to get on the freeways. its still pretty quick, 16.0 in the quarter with 13 inch wheels.i have 15 inch wheels on now.
Patience is a virtue that will give you a long lasting car

now there is a another concern based on the fuel system, and the cooling system.

Is the stock civic fuel pump good enough? i suspect its not. so a walboro 190lph runs for about 100. Is it really necessary. yes i will probably bring it up to redline at least a few times. maybe more... ummm heh.
Get this before the swap. It isn't a must, but why **** around for only $100?
cooling, is the orginal civic radiator good enough? at least for until this summer when i will buy a fluidyne and ultra thin fan. The radiator i have now is half, not full.
The stock civic radiator is more than enough. Don't blow $400 on a C&R like poison recommends. It is a waste of $400 for daily driving
timing belt looks good, looks new, neldogg thinks it was replaced recent before he tore it out of the lude.
Replace it again, just in case. While you are at it, do the manual tensioner conversion. I can't tell you how lucky I was that I didn't blow my motor when my automatic tensioner took a ****

I will be doing the rebuild on the head. possiblity try and do valve seat resurfacing my self. i hve done it on small 4stroke engines before. I dont know if its any much difference. its just a suction tip and suck it on the bottom of the valve and then put compound on it and place it on the valve seat and spin it around with hands like burning a wood. Or no is it not recommened? I know how engine works, and have done a lot of work on several different engines. but never done a seating myself for automobile engine. I bought a L valve compressor from sears. but now i dont know if its the right one. I already have new valve guide seals. but i dont have the tool to remove it or install. where can i get one?
Skip this whole thing.
sorry this is a long post lol. any help is strongly appreciated!
Old 03-07-2005, 12:21 PM
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Dark knight, the head was removed, because the previous owner was going to part it all out and sell parts. plus the motor has 147k miles on it. i am going to rebuild the head and hopefully the compression comes out fine and will last me until fall of 2005, then i will removed the motor and rebuild the whole motor. So that is why i am asking where i can get valve seal removal tool. Somebody told me that i needed it.

yeah im gonna go with manual tensioner, and stick with stock radiator for now since i will upgrade later this summer due to that im going to be doing some drag racing at the strip pretty often. so that is another reason i want to get the DSS stage 1 axles now so then i have some better "insurance" on the axles with slicks which i plan to get for the fall seasons.
Old 03-07-2005, 12:55 PM
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Default Re: (VTECR021)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECR021 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah im gonna go with manual tensioner, and stick with stock radiator for now since i will upgrade later this summer due to that im going to be doing some drag racing at the strip pretty often. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Manual Tensioner
New Radiator

I don't know if you've ever been to a track before, but it usually goes like this.

Sit in line.
Get called to go.
Start up car.
Car heats up to normal operating temps.
Make pass.
Park car.
Wait to be called again.

READ: You do not need an aftermarket radiator unless you are going FI, have a crazy all-motor setup, or will be doing some lengthy road racing. Save yourself the 400 bucks. With my stock, single core radiator and slim fan, my temps never reach above 205.
Old 03-07-2005, 01:08 PM
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Yes i've been drag racing since 1997 and loving it. With this setup i should have clutch, flywheel, slicks, and some other stuff by fall season. So i will be beating on it.

Approx middle of winter, or early spring, i should have my block resleeved, hi comp setup possiblity decked too (plans arent firm on the comp setup yet), along with itb that should be bought and installed for 2007. So the radiator will be bought this late summer, early fall for looks plus safety. I rather be safe than sorry with my all motor setup. I am expecting at least 11.99 sec all motor.

But thanks, yea i wont be running new radiator setup right now.
Old 03-08-2005, 06:27 PM
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is this correct..

DSS stage 1 bolts in with prelude intermediate shaft right?

but the left and right 90-93 integra axles wont work with prelude intermediate shaft right? i need 90-93 accord intermediate shaft or does it must be a 90 accord one?
Old 03-08-2005, 10:25 PM
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Default Re: (VTECR021)

are you running an LSD tranny?
I am running an LSD tranny with Prelude intermediate shaft
and 89 Integra Axles. i am not sure if the shop used a prelude inner joint on the passenger side. I am going to find out soon. Both my inner joints are gone. so i will be getting the replaced or rebuild next week.
Old 03-08-2005, 10:40 PM
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Default Re: (matto23)

its a usdm motor, so no i dont have lsd, i wish though lol
Old 03-09-2005, 04:08 AM
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Default Re: (VTECR021)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECR021 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is this correct..

DSS stage 1 bolts in with prelude intermediate shaft right?

but the left and right 90-93 integra axles wont work with prelude intermediate shaft right? i need 90-93 accord intermediate shaft or does it must be a 90 accord one?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are direct bolt ins, but you have to tell frank exactly what your setup is.
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