DRI13

Ok so I've done some research to see what i could find, I am going to do an h-22 swap for my 99EKex. This IS my dd that i love but the D has got to go. I have plans of the CTR 5-lug conversion, and more than likely suspention upgrades.
See my thing is I need everything (p/s a/c ect.) to still work as well. Which route is better? For this I need a lil advise, So here is the plan.

I can get-

Euro-R h22 motor
T2W4 transmission
98 prelude wiring harness / civic harness
OBD2b to OBD2a converter
shifter
PCD ecu
HASport mounts
HASport axles
prelude intermediate shaft
95 prelude transmission bracket
(?) dual core radiator+ slim fan (5" total enuff?)
Explicit alternator kit


Or would the h2b work out better?

Something like this-

Euro-R h22 motor
s80 GSR transmission (lsd)
98 prelude wiring harness / civic harness
OBD2b to OBD2a converter
PCD ecu
QSD h2b
mounts
Explicit alternator kit
custom header from ?


I Think i needed a 98 A/C bracket which will use stock compressor and custom lines.
For P/S I need 97 prelude bracket , 97 accord pump and line. (will the euro work?)
And that is for both str8 h22 and h2b right?
It being Euro-R do I still need custom fuel line and how do I get around the resistor box or is it just better?

DRI13

I think that was it if I missed or forgot something please remind me.

marshun

shifter cable.

also you dont need to change upt he radiator. you can use a slim fan and be fine.

DRI13

Really the EX rad. is good and small enuff?
thats good to know.
thanks.

DRI13

also the euro-r shifter and cables WILL work right?

DRI13

Anyone know where i can find 92+ p/s pump and/or bracket?

Is the hcp a/c bracket a better choice than oem?

DRI13

Bump

Libertariat

You forgot the h2b kit.

Hands down the best thing. It might cost a little extra but in the end the car will be more reliable, less axle issues, and perform better thanks to better gearing, weight savings, you can use b-series mounts, and best of all you don't have to hack up your floorboard and put up with the terrible-ness that is cable shifting.

DRI13

how bad can cable be?

Libertariat

Bad. Do you like the idea of cutting up your floorboard? Not to mention having mediocre gearing in the h22 transmission. If you're aiming for a 1/4 mile car, the B-series transmission and an h2b kit is like bolting on about -.5 seconds off of your time. It's easily the most cost efficient way to go faster with an h22. You'd spend a lot more for cams/valvetrain for worse gains.

ef9_lover

iTrader: (1)

lol at this guy^^ have you ever cut it up to install h22 shift cables??? it literally took me 5min - 10min to do on my boy car. and his car is running perfect no shifting problem. all u need do is cut like 1 medium hole and second hole is optional sum people run the cable threw the chasis hidden other run it under. so if u go threw second hole comes to play...

also h2b is bad *** BUT he wants go with power steering and ac. i dont know how much clearance there is on ek. but on eg there none wat so ever.

AND if u get the expilcit speed perforance bracket that move the altenator half in over. ur gonna have to costom fab ac bracket to fit on the half in move crank pully and custom power steering

DRI13

yea not having room for p/s and a/c with the h2b was what i was afraid of. After all this is my daily, I really don't have any tracks to run on. I did want the torque the h22 pumps out, for alil more power.

My only thing aginst the h2b is my D-tranny would not be good so have to get a new. And the H has a tranny all ready .

So what your saying is, through with the two holes is the better way to go with the cable?
Don't get me wrong I think linkage would be better, but most people who have done it don't seem to put off by the cables, if done correctly.

But isn't the H-tranny stronger ( better for the low torque )?

Libertariat

You can habe a/c on h2b no problem. The h22 runs a serpentine belt for its compressor and alternator. Just do the same on your civic. Eg or ek.

Power steering you can keep too, just buy an electronic MR2 power steering pump and run it off of the fuse box.

The h tranny isn't "stronger" it has longer gears for some reason. Many people will put b-series gears in their H trannnies.

Team kryptonite

i know this might be on some ones post but i cant find it and have a hard time so take it easy on me.. i have a jdm h22a and recently blew a b20 turbo dc integra doors off.. the catch is my timing was off like 180 degrees off when i smashed the b20 turbo and now im piston rings are ****ed and pistons are cracked bad.. the only pistons i could get a hold of were h22a1 so where would i be at now with h22a1 pistons?? and what would my 1/4 time be in a 93 dx eg

Turpid Porpoise

However long it takes you to travel a 1/4 mile starting at 0 MPH.

Team kryptonite

lol i guess smart ****
but im still in the process of putting the pistons in and wanted to know what you guys think i would be running n i know im less compression now

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

I've had a H22 and H2B in an EG.

I daily drove the H22 EG and I liked it. I don't think you have to do H2B. I had gator racing axles and had zero axle issues with Hasport mounts. Also, I had a M2B4 and fuel economy was great. After a turbogixxer tune I did 26-28 mpg with 'normal' driving, 30 mpg with mostly highway, and a best of 32 mpg on a whole tank without hitting vtec.

I'll admit a shift linkage feels better than cables, but I wouldn't let it be my sole deciding factor.

Just my 2 cents, good luck with the build.

DRI13

Yea its not the main factor just one of the pros to cons.

I'm glad to hear you had no axle issues, that was a concern I had, and fuel economy is good especially now days.

And thanks for the two cents, all the change I can get is a help to the finnal product.

DRI13

how long will an d-series tranny work?