I'm almost 100% that I want to do this. The ONLY thing that is stopping me is I'm afraid my reliability will be shot. I drive my car almost everyday, and can't afford to have to pay for technicalities and not have a car.

Pleeeeease give me some feedback. Thanks...

 

as long as the proper parts are replaced and its installed right, there should be no problems as far as daily driveability/reliability.

Wil

 

depends on how you build it, how you drive it, and how you take care of it. You can use the best parts in the world but if you treat your motor like **** and stab the hell out of it all the time it will break down.

 

if you want for sure reliability, resleave it, strong rods and vtec pistons. make sure all the right amount of fuel and spark are coming along ok. take it to a known and trusted shop to put it together and put in new oil lines. oil squirters couldnt hurt either. if you want to rev it, titanium valve springs and retainers.

 

A correctly built setup will last you and this is an excellent project for the dyi person. Get the block girdle (z10 or modded gsr). Do you think the gsr guys would rev to 8k without one? If you don't have a helms, buy one. It'll pay for itself. Believe me.
If FI is ever in your future, get low comp forged slugs and ss valves (exhaust only if money is tight). Don't bother all motor, unless you want a mild increase and or like the challenge from trying to extract "big numbers", but don't buy into the all motor for reliability argument. FI or all motor-Either way you are gonna spend some money.

Last, please please please don't do this for the extra 30 horses. It's not worth it.

I'm boosting my ls/vtec this month and we'll see how long it lasts. I'm anticipating at least 3 years of dependable life.

 

what? its not worth it for the extra 30hp?

Plaese explain?

 

I think he was implying that the hassle of the ls/vtec isnt worth the extra 30 hp your going to gain from it. If your not looking for a hassle, and possible down time...You shouldnt swap...or get yourself a beater car. Granted, there are a ton of swaps that go well, and stay that way... but alot end up going astray. My swap took 5 weeks and went 700 over budget. I understand that dosent happen to everyone...but you have to take it into account. I had 3 wasted weekends, because I was sent the wrong parts, or not enough (flywheel bolts grrr
Just make sure your ready for anything...

-Jake

 

Thanks everyone for your input!!! It's so tight to know that whenever I/or anyone has a question there are many people who offer help.

I have talked to some people as well, and pretty much what I hear is that if the job is done right, reliability will be fine. But if you rev your motor like there's no tomorrow and run your car hard often, then of course your motor will suffer.

Also, a vtec head on a ls motor is a great addition, but only for maybe 20 HP. I talked to a Honda mechanic and he told me this, and also mentioned that if you really want output, you have to build the bottom end with pistons and rods. It can get expensive, but it's worth it in the long run if you want to go all-motor. Again it gets very expensive. The LS/VTEC is great because you get more displacement than a GS-R. But honestly you kinda have to not stop at just the vtec head, and go the extra mile. He said people will swap on a gsr head/etc. and drive out of the shop wondering if what they did was worth the 20 HP.

I mean it all depends on you though. It would be tight as **** to have a LS/VTEC all motor machine, but it will never get the power of Forced Induction.

There are so many options out there, and unfortunately not enough $$$

 

heh, daily driveablitiy & reliability with an LS or B20/vtec in the same sentence!? thats a good one...

If i were you, I'd stick to a 100% B-series vtec head & block setup.


[Modified by Katman, 11:21 AM 5/2/2002]

 

You have understood your situation very well. For the amount of work and money to get a properly built ls/vtec, you might as well build for FI which is what I did. Whatever you choose good luck.

 

thanks