I just completed converting from OBD0 to OBD1 in my 4g B16 Hatch (SI). I'm using a 95 GSR (OBD1) distributor, soldered in grey plug OBD1 distributor connector, used Boomslangs OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness connected to a P30 Del Sol ECU, connected 4 wire 02 sensor, and ran the other connections for VTEC solenoid, oil pressure, and knock sensor. I also am using OBD0 injectors.

The engine is hard to start...it takes quite a bit of turns of the key til it starts. It does start, but is real rough. When a little gas is applied, the engine dies out. I grounded D4 on the conversion harness to check for codes, but all I get is a solid check engine light (no flashes).

Anyone have any ideas of what could be going on?

 

Is it hard to start only when tje engine is cold, or is it not temperature dependent?

 

i guess you can say its hard to start when cold. it takes a few tries til i can actually get it started. after say 5 minutes at idle and after either shutting off or dying from pressing on the gas, then it still has a problem getting started again. so i guess temp dont matter.

 

It runs perfectly fine after it is started?

 

Have you checked your fireing order? Seen many cars with the same problem because the plug wires were installed wrong. Only reason asking is becuase you changed distributors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SI_Ro &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just completed converting from OBD0 to OBD1 in my 4g B16 Hatch (SI). I'm using a 95 GSR (OBD1) distributor, soldered in grey plug OBD1 distributor connector, used Boomslangs OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness connected to a P30 Del Sol ECU, connected 4 wire 02 sensor, and ran the other connections for VTEC solenoid, oil pressure, and knock sensor. I also am using OBD0 injectors.

The engine is hard to start...it takes quite a bit of turns of the key til it starts. It does start, but is real rough. When a little gas is applied, the engine dies out. I grounded D4 on the conversion harness to check for codes, but all I get is a solid check engine light (no flashes).

Anyone have any ideas of what could be going on? </TD></TR></TABLE>

So your using an obd1 distributor, obd1 ecu and obd0 injectors? One of these things is not like the other.

edit: did you remove the injector resistor box when you converted??


Modified by 1st-hybrid at 9:08 AM 5/18/2004

 

The engine still does not run perfectly fine....still rough. Engine does not accelerate, it bogs instead, then dies.

I'm pretty sure the firing order is correct, otherwise it wouldn't start right?

Yes, I'm using OBD1 ECU & Distributor and OBD0 injectors. I've read that you can run OBD0 injectors...and injector box was not removed.

 

[QUOTE=SI_Ro]The engine still does not run perfectly fine....still rough. Engine does not accelerate, it bogs instead, then dies.

I'm pretty sure the firing order is correct, otherwise it wouldn't start right?

Yes, I'm using OBD1 ECU & Distributor and OBD0 injectors. I've read that you can run OBD0 injectors...and injector box was not removed.[/QUOTE

Ive see a car start a couple of times with the fireing order wrong mine included. When i did it to my car it ran the same way yours is running right now.

 

ok...i'll take a look at the firing order.

anymore ideas out there?

 

I have an OBD0-OBD! converted JDM B16, with a JDM **** conversion harness and a P61 93 GSR ECU

The way I check the codes is there is a white plug beside the drivers side motor mount, get a short piece of wire and put it in both sides, just like on an OBD1 car and the CEL will flash. My car did something similar, and it ended up being a wire on my conversion harness was loose. Just check all you connections that you have and make sure all the wires are in their correct place

Robbie

 

Yeah if you left the resistor box it should be ok