PerfectionIsKey

Hi, just want to start off with please don't Rage at me, Insult me about the build as i am not the SMARTEST person about builds but I DO know my way around the car and builds. I might of made some mistakes on this list or something that people will say "WTF, is this kid stupid?" i am sorry in advance. This build is going in a 96-00 ek coupe, i'm not really **** about what year i get because i will do a EM1 front regardless and EM1 tail lights just don't have the income to buy an em1 lool

Another thing, funds are not a worry with me. This build WILL NOT BE PUT IN THE CAR UNTIL 100% complete. I WILL NOT cut any corners idc how much money it will save me if i cut corners, NONE will be cut. This is my dream build AND NOTHING will stop me from acheiving it. I obviously do need some help with it so lets get started with my list of parts. Please go about your opinions in a kinda/informed way. I would really like to keep the insults and flaming out of this thread and just want to get help and be informed. I will be the first to say i am 100% APPRECIATED of all help as long as you explain why i should change, remove something.

Here is my list:

•B18C(Type-R) FULL SWAP+ LSD Tranny: $4,000.00 Hmotorsonline.com (96-97 spec)
•Hasport Engine Mounts: $450.00
•ARP Head Studs
•Earl’s Performance Billet Swivel-Seal Fuel lines + Fittings
•Exedy Stage-1 Clutch
•Exedy Racing Flywheel
•Hondata s300
•MSD Spark Plug Wires-Heli Core(Blue wires)
•NGK V-power Spark plugs
•Mishimoto Aluminum Radiator
•Skunk2 Black series Intake manifold
•Skunk2 Pro 1 Cam Shafts
•Spoon 4-2 Ek9 Manifold
•Spoon Tail Silencer[Street] Exhaust with Type-r CAT

IF I DO END UP GOING TURBO, this is my plans

•Turbonetics t3/t4 .48ar Turbo
•Not sure on Boost Controller
•Tial 50mm BOV
•Twin Tial 44mm Wastegate
•Not sure on size of piping will get help with that.

This list has been about a year or so of searching, researching being in cars with different builds, CONSTANTLY changing it, constantly fixing things and i really think i'm getting close to fine tuning it. I want to get my build settled and ready so i can do all the pricing and start putting money away for these parts. ALL OF THESE PARTS WILL BE BOUGHT AT Around the same time(I might get small things here and there so it makes the list smaller for me and gives me more motivation to save more) and NOT A SINGLE PART will go on until i have every part ready. I WILL have help from a shop with this build, so NO i will not do this all by myself(I won't risk messing something up). Like i said PLEASE PLEASE keep all HATE/FLAME/AND INSULTS out of this thread i just really want some help with this. I'm GRATEFUL of all ideas.

Bondito007

You seem to have a good grasp on what it is you want to do and have chosen quality parts. The fact that you made a list shows that you are organized. Good luck with your build.

PerfectionIsKey

Thanks, i won't buy a SINGLE PART until i have everything organized on every single part of the car. i literally won't even go get lug nuts before i know exactly what colors, brand, type and where i'm getting it from.

Yeah, for 17 everyone says i'm not like anyone from this town(Modesto). Everyone does fast and shitty jobs on there car and don't spend more then 2k on there car then dumb it for a new one. This might be my first car, but I AM NOT getting rid of it unless someone offers me WAY MORE than it's worth and i would be able to rebuild it. And even then i highly doubt i would get rid of it lol. thanks again

B20DelSol

Since you are buying all of the internals and building it up, you might want to try Attarco (In Richmond or Sacramento) for the engine. Since you are getting the tranny separate, you only need the engine. If they have one, I doubt it will be over $1000 shipped (you are in the modesto area right?)

I would personally can the MSD ignition stuff. I bet you plan on driving the crap of this thing, but MSD isn't the greatest out there, plus, I am willing to bet OEM components with NGK wires will give you comparable performance.

You might want to look into the Hondata COP setup (or similar) with CBR ignition coils. That will actually give you better performance gain that any of that MSD stuff as it gives you MUCH better control of the spark.

MSD is cool, but for 99% of applications, it doesn't make a big difference
Just my 2 cents.

PerfectionIsKey

I was planning on getting the LSD tranny from HMO. IMO it is the #1 most rep'd site and place that i know of. I trust the site and am willing to pay extra for something i KNOW will run and if it doesn't i will get another 40k one. I will drive the crap out of this thing when it's stock but i want to make this a weekend warrior. i will probably keep it a DD and leave my s13 hatch from weekend drifting(D1 and FD events). so i will take up your advice on the MSD. Personally i like the look of MSD also.

B20DelSol

That is true Hmotors gets rep'd a lot on here. I have used attarco and they are great. 6 month warranty on used motors, 12 month on rebuilt. plus they ship to your house and such. And their prices are really good.

PerfectionIsKey

I'll go and check them out once i get my car. I might be getting a full engine mount(Like to hold the engine in the air) for 150$ brand new in the box so if i get that i can start working on my build when i get it. i spent like LEGITLY 9-10 hours on cleaning the garage for my car. Killed like 50 spiders xDDD. i'll be moving really soon so i'll have a brand new 3-car garage SUPER CLEAN to work on. so that will be nice.

hwyix

iTrader: (1)

Looking forward to seeing this build.

Since your from CA like me I would not put a turbo on and deal with the smog legal hassle. From the looks of your list your car is going to be very nice and draw the attention of the police.

If you want to make crazy power with a turbo make get something 1975 or older.

PerfectionIsKey

oh nah nah nah, if i go turbo this bitch is getting trailer'd to a track and not going on the street lol

And thanks, when i say this i'm not trying to be cocky or seem like i'm better than people but i am literally a DIE HARD car enthusiast. I get so angry when people cut the SMALLEST OF CORNERS. something as small as 2 out of 300 bolt's are rusty and dirty and people say ehh **** it. This is something i've planned and done research on since i was like 12-13 and finally after talking to my parents i worked on there car so much they agreed they will let me work on it in the garage and won't bother or yell at me for messes and ****. i really can't wait to start this build (:

hwyix

iTrader: (1)

Damn, trailer race car

Why fwd then? Yeah, I know they can be fast. I read all magazines/internet but I know it is a lot harder/more parts brake (transmissions/axels) etc... to make a honda reach 9 seconds than it is for pre 1975 vega/240z/camaro/mustang/chevelle.

Either way, looking forward to what ever you build. Please let me help you spend your money

I only have just enough money repair/(fix up a little bit) my EG hatch.

jbpnoman

If you're **** enough to care about rusted bolts, do what I do. Before installing new bolts, either replace the nut as well, or if it's a welded nut, use a thread chaser to clean it. After installing the new bolt, either put a light coat of RTV over the head and nut (basically wherever water could get in), or spray a light coat of paint over it. You'll still be able to remove the bolt later, but the RTV or paint will prevent water from getting in and rusting the new one out.

PerfectionIsKey

If i did build an ek coupe JUST for track THE ONLY REASON I WOULD LOVE THE FACT IT IS A FWD, is the fact that it's the least common to be the best. AWD usually DOMINATES the tract. i would rather be a 10 second FWD ek coupe in a car i love than a 6 second AWD car that i hate. Not saying i hate all AWD's i LOVEEEEE GTR's every single part about them. But Honda's and 240's have always been my true passion.


And @JB thanks for the advice i will do. i have no problem getting ANY BOLT/washer/nut/ ect BRAND NEW. i can get HUGE AMOUNTS OF THEM in any size for stupid cheap or brand new.

PerfectionIsKey

I'm thinking about going with a brand new Spoon header? Will an EK9 spoon header fit on a GSR b18c1? 4-2
i also ******* LOVE the Spoon Exhaust Tail suspensor[street]. if i went ek9 4-2 header to catalytic converter to this exhaust would it be legal in cali? i wouldn't see why not, it's not straight pipe or anything.

doood

iTrader: (1)

i just saved you a couple grand. just buy a ******* type r motor.

kyden

i would skip the pro1 cams, not enough compression to use them. not to mention it might not work depending on what turbo you get.

twin wastegates? why?

skip the aem stuff. skip the msd stuff. skip the venom injectors. skip the type r crank. skip the type r rods.

PerfectionIsKey

I would love to go straight forward with a Type-r if Cali wasn't such a ******* **** about and you have to give an arm and a leg and all you time to even get the CHANCE of having the motor in my car. I know i can go gsr with type-r internals because my cousin did it and he passed smog, emissions, registration everything with flying colors no hassles.

PerfectionIsKey

Why not type-r internals? also what cams would you recommend?

doctorake

You could get a USDM type R motor and get it REF'd.

Skip the AEM, MSD, and Junk2 stuff. I am by no means a turbo expert but from what others said you should research more on that before you make decisions. lso the s300 should be used turbo or not.

I may have missed it but what is the goal of this car? Also I assume you will have alarm stuff since you generally talk highly about security.

Is that 350$ extra for an LSD or just 350$ for a separate LSD trans?

PerfectionIsKey

Getting the LSD with the engine on HMO.

Alright that's like 4 people that said to skip AEM, MSD, and junk2 so i will do so

The turbo build was from about 5-6 months ago and i HIGHLY DOUBT i will boost. I wanna stay N/A.

and yeah this is LITERALLY ONLY THE ENGINE BUILD, all interior, exterior, alarm ect is on completely different lists.

Goals of car is DD + track(Weekend drag strip possibly but Autox is kinda growing on me).


Also, if i get a 100% confirmation on a Type-r getting ref'd and bar'd ect smoothly i will DEFINITELY go that route.

Hybrid96EK

You can 100% for sure ref a type r engine. No point in buying a gsr swap just to rip it apart and build it to r spec.

Invest in a great alarm. Down where you are your car is likely to get jacked after all this work and money. No good.

doctorake

Searche a little but could not find it, there was a whole thread of a guy that built his b18c5 with the intention of getting it BAR'd and he did. Honestly just call the station and ask them, they are the ones who do it so why not ask them if you can and what it needs.

PerfectionIsKey

Like i said about the alarm. This is JUST THE ENGINE BUILD. I've bought alarm parts before i was even 16. **** i started buying alarm parts WHEN I WAS 14, there is nobody on this site that is more **** about alarms than me.

Like i said i am more then welcome to get a type-r, i've just heard it was **** to get it Ref'd and bar'd

PerfectionIsKey

What's the station "Name", i'll call today and talk to them about it.

Hybrid96EK

Calm down on the profanity a little.

Its not "****" to ref something. Its called following the law. If the engine is from a different chassis (IE: Civic into Integra) then its required that you have it certified at a California referee station. Search for it and I am sure you can find a station near you. Its not that difficult to pass... Get your type R swap, use the Civic OBD-2 harness on the R engine, get the R ECU (No JDM ECU's) and make sure it has an OBD-2 legal cat on it and you should be good to go. Everyone who makes a big deal out of passing ref are usually hacks with ghetto swaps and other crap. Keep it stock, keep it simple. Easy.

PerfectionIsKey

If you are really complaining about "****" and "****", you really need to wake up. Also, like i said it's obviously harder to get a R swap than lets say y8 swap bar'd and ref'd. Like everyone knows Cali is usually the most rough about it also. Obviously i'll still go through with it and "IF" WORSE COMES TO WORSE i'll sell the swap and go with a gsr R spec swap. Not really a big deal to me.