Originally Posted by Stickjdm

Umm.. Why must you come off in such a way? I listed that had a p28 for a reference to people who may know what my problem is. The computer came chipped and with 2 step when I bought my car. A p28 is not magic.. A p28 is a computer with vtec.. Now I don't want to be be rude at all but i actually followed that reliable ls vtec guide very closely, along with friends of mine who knew what they were doing as well. It's been together for 2 days I haven't had a chance to get a tune on it. All I need is suggestions as to what to do in a situation like this.

Originally Posted by bambam

I put this guide together because I'm tired of seeing the SAME threads over and over of simple questions that can be answered in one simple post like this one. This thread is designed to be an end-all, tell-all type thread. Please keep in mind though, that this is still just a general guide. Lsvtec/b20vtec engines are not honda manufactured engines. With that said, there are hundreds of combinations you can build.
Also, please be aware that this guide is assembled on an intermediate level, and anyone reading this guide can perform all of the steps outlined.

Let's begin. Now, there are a few NECESSARY things to do/parts to buy when building a <u>"reliable"</u> lsvtec/b20vtec:

-LS/B20 (same) ARP rod bolts
-GSR/ITR (same) ARP head studs (NON-B17)
-New LS (90-01) B18a/b (for 81mm) or B20 (for 84mm) head gasket (MLS) or aftermarket for your non-OEM bore
-New ACL bearings - LS/B20 (same)
-New Hastings piston rings (or OEM)
-New OEM D/Bseries (same) valve seals
-New OEM Dohc Vtec Bseries (B16/GSR/ITR) 22T water pump
-New OEM P72 GSR/ITR timing belt (not B17)
-New OEM P72 oil pump (96+ GSR/LS/B20/ITR/B16 - all the same)
-Magnetic oil drain plug (important for break in)
-New NGK V-power BKR6E spark plugs (stock LS pistons) OR NGK V-power BKR7E spark plugs for 10.0-12.0:1 compression, or NGK V-power R5671A-8 plugs for 12.0:1+ compression
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator (necessary for stock ECU/injectors)
-In addition, you should replace all remaining gaskets and filters

Note- "same" means that the listed parts use the same part #'s from HONDA/ACURA.

<u>Additionally:</u>
-Shotpeen LS rods
-Hone big end of rods when using ARP rod bolts (if necessary)
-Hone cylinders (if necessary)
-Balance the entire rotating assembly

Do the above, and your motor will reward you with <u>reliability</u>.

ECU/Tuning. This will be different for everyone.
Now let's think, what ECU will be best for this setup? The answer is NONE. Most ecu's will run this motor, but run it pretty darn shitty. How could you even expect it to run right? This isn't a stock honda motor! You WILL need some way to tune if you want this thing to last threw the day, week, month, year.
If you're looking for an ECU, just get one that you can chip, and has vtec capability. That's it. FYI, generally, GSR ecu's run this setup like poop so steer away from them unless it's already chipped and ready to be tuned.
Also, don't just buy some "skunk2" or "Mugen" chip. First of all, it's highly doubtful it's an authentic program to begin with. Second of all, you're taking someone else's word for what program is on that chip to run your new motor. You MUST be retarded.
Every LSVTEC/B20vtec motor is different and must be tuned INDIVIDUALLY!
So, get an ecu. Have it chipped. Install a wideband O2 sensor. Hook everything up together. Run your software of choice, and tune. You will need to tune for 14.5-15.1 at idle, and then gradually increase that to 13:1 at WOT in vtec. This is just a general rule...but tends to be pretty close to a RULE in tuning.

Originally Posted by Stickjdm

Now I don't want to be be rude at all but i actually followed that reliable ls vtec guide very closely, along with friends of mine who knew what they were doing as well.

Originally Posted by jdmjunkieXL

then ask ur friends why your vtec dont work if they know what there doing

Originally Posted by grumblemarc

Then you didn't follow it and your friends don't know what they're doing either. YOu may not need anyone to think for you but you do obviously need someone to read for you. If you didn't have the means to do it right you should have waited until you could, or not done it at all.

And let's not use that "start somewhere"nonsense as an excuse.

Originally Posted by bambam

-LS/B20 (same) ARP rod bolts
-GSR/ITR (same) ARP head studs (NON-B17)
-New LS (90-01) B18a/b (for 81mm) or B20 (for 84mm) head gasket (MLS) or aftermarket for your non-OEM bore
-New ACL bearings - LS/B20 (same)
-New Hastings piston rings (or OEM)
-New OEM D/Bseries (same) valve seals
-New OEM P72 GSR/ITR timing belt (not B17)
-Magnetic oil drain plug (important for break in)
-New NGK V-power BKR6E spark plugs (stock LS pistons) OR NGK V-power BKR7E spark plugs for 10.0-12.0:1 compression, or NGK V-power R5671A-8 plugs for 12.0:1+ compression
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator (necessary for stock ECU/injectors)

Originally Posted by Stickjdm

Lol c'mon bro.. No need to get snippy. I followed the post word for word besides me
Not having. A spare 400 dollars for hondata.. Sorry for annoying you guys with one more ls vtec post. You have to start somewhere right? And I'm not an idiot obviously no computer including mine is made for my motor.. I don't a need anyone to think for me.