so. i have a B18a1 in my car. wanted to pull it out and swap a gsr into it, but a buddy of mine (who knows more than i do) told me it was better to just go ls vtec. He told me buy the heads, dizzy, ecu, and eagle kit and im good (like 600) now, someone said i had to do all kinds of other stuff. can someone with a little more experience help me out? tell me what i need and around what i should expect to pay?

 

NUMBER 1 THING like no lie this should be the first thing on your list before anything else. ARP ROD BOLTS. my boy spent all his money building an lsv he doesnt know that much either. going off what hes heards. he did everything beside the rod bolts. the rod shot out the block the first day. ls stock rod bolts cant handle the power or rpms.

 

also take time out your day read this. in the long run this thread will be the best thing you ever read about lsv/b20v
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

 

Would it be better to just get the b18c5? I'm gonna turbo it after anyways

 

imo type R are overrated. id stick with your ls or uprade to a gsr then boost or upgrade to a jdm b18c or jdm b18b that has low mileage most usdm have alot alot of miles of them

 

I hav similar problem in a way, Iv owned lots of hondas my whole life and hav done minor things but I cant post on the site yet cause its my first day but i need to kno asap about som things.... I bought a 93EJ1 with a LSV and am running a p28 chipped, when i drive it it like laggs bad b4 vtec like 3400rpms then speeds up fine and when i hit vtec i can hear it pop but its not rly feeling strong and then the CEL comes on... wtf so i did the paperclip trick it does a quick flash then long long then short short so its code 22 but the quick flash when i turn the ign is that code 1?? so will a sohc vtec solenoid work and the lagg part rly makes me mad... i changed the oil, seafoamd it and cause somtimes it idles fluctuates i did throttle cleaner which helpd a little. But is it my clutch?? cause its missing the metal plate that goes out side the bell housing, i guss it keeps the clutch cooler or somthing but idk theres lots of snow up here so could the clutch be damaged from being wet?? or should i do a tranny fluid change to c if that helps?? im lost on things so i appreciate the help cause i cant post forums yet.......

 

If I were going to boost, I would get a cheaper b-series so there's less finances at stake if the motor goes.

b18b or b16a can be found really cheaply and will handle boost very well. You won't cry when you blow one of those up nearly as bad as if you blew up a b18c5.

 

yea def ARP rod bolts and w gsr/ITR water pump and oil pumps as well..