To see you u guys can help me out. On a ls-vtec i know you can use a ls headgasket but can i use a vtec headgasket. if not do you know why?

 

So. Is there anyone there can help me out on this.

 

Cometic gaskets make a ls-vtec headgasket. Don't know if that helps or not.

 

You Actually Need the Vtec head gasket. You cannot use a LS head gasket. I personlly built my LSvtec and found out the hard way. The Ls gasket has 2 brass rivots that get sandwiched between the head and block. You can drill these rivots out and use a LS gasket. However some website (dont remember whos) has the pics to prove this. and the vtec gasket and LS gasket some what restrict the oil drain back passages. I use a Vtec with no problems. Cosmetic does not have any drain back blocking and can be up to 84 mm I think. Hope this helps..

Nick

 

Thanks for the info

 

From my understanding, you need a non vtec gasket

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/lsvtec/parts.php

 

From my understanding of actually building one and driving it everyday.... With a B18B1 block and GSR head, the rivots get inbetween the head and block. They dont seal and you get alot of coolant in the oil and smoke out the tail pipe..... Trust me I have a Good B1 head gasket if anyone needs one lol.

Edit - The Cspeed site even says in the first line We use B17 vtec but any vtec will do.... Then says LS headgasket in the parts list....

Nick

 

OK, so the correct gasket is a non vtec b18a/b, right?

 

NO, you need a head gasket for whatever HEAD you are using. You need a Vtec gasket.

 

Taken from here https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

I put this guide together because I'm tired of seeing the SAME threads over and over of simple questions that can be answered in one simple post like this one. This thread is designed to be an end-all, tell-all type thread. Please keep in mind though, that this is still just a general guide. Lsvtec/b20vtec engines are not honda manufactured engines. With that said, there are hundreds of combinations you can build.
Also, please be aware that this guide is assembled on an intermediate level, and anyone reading this guide can perform all of the steps outlined.

Let's begin. Now, there are a few NECESSARY things to do/parts to buy when building a "reliable" lsvtec/b20vtec:

-LS/B20 (same) ARP rod bolts
-GSR/ITR (same) ARP head studs (NON-B17)
-New LS (90-01) B18a/b (for 81mm) or B20 (for 84mm) head gasket (MLS) or aftermarket for your non-OEM bore
-New ACL bearings - LS/B20 (same)
-New Hastings piston rings (or OEM)
-New OEM D/Bseries (same) valve seals
-New OEM Dohc Vtec Bseries (B16/GSR/ITR) 22T water pump
-New OEM P72 GSR/ITR timing belt (not B17)
-New OEM P72 oil pump (96+ GSR/LS/B20/ITR/B16 - all the same)
-Magnetic oil drain plug (important for break in)
-New NGK V-power BKR6E spark plugs (stock LS pistons) OR NGK V-power BKR7E spark plugs for 10.0-12.0:1 compression, or NGK V-power R5671A-8 plugs for 12.0:1+ compression
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator (necessary for stock ECU/injectors)
-In addition, you should replace all remaining gaskets and filters

Note- "same" means that the listed parts use the same part #'s from HONDA/ACURA.

Additionally:
-Shotpeen LS rods
-Hone big end of rods when using ARP rod bolts (if necessary)
-Hone cylinders (if necessary)
-Balance the entire rotating assembly

Do the above, and your motor will reward you with reliability.

Other things to consider for making power:
-A complete 2.5 inch exhaust (header, cat, exhaust piping, and muffler)
-Hondata/Passwordjdm intake manifold gasket
-Adjustable cam gears (even for stock cams, because lsvtec timing will ALWAYS be slightly off)
-OEM P30(SIR2 B16)/P73(ITR) pistons or forged 11.5:1+ pistons (forged aftermarket pistons can be run on stock rods)
-Higher lift/longer duration cams (read below for cams)
-Stiffer valve springs (read below for valve springs)
-Better intake manifold (ITR, AEBS, Skunk2, JG, Ported ITR, custom, etc.)
-Reputable Port/Polish work on the head
-Better header (SMSP, RMF, Hytech, DTR/SSR, Hytech, ANR, Rage, custom, etc.)
-310cc injectors (at a minimum)
-Sleeved to 84+mm
-extensive tuning

Also, I have included the important torque specs you should follow while assembling your hybrid motor:

Fuel filter bolt - 25 ft/lbs
Tensioner pulley bolt - 40 ft/lbs
Crank pulley bolt - 130 ft/lbs
Cam gear bolts - 41 ft/lbs
Exhaust manifold/Header to cylinder head nuts/bolts - 27 ft/lbs
Intake manifold to Cylinder head nuts/bolts - 18 ft/lbs
Throttle body to intake manifold nuts/bolts - 16 ft/lbs
Cylinder head bolts (OEM) - 22 ft/lbs (first), 63 ft/lbs (second) (please see below for ARP's)
Rocker arm locking nuts - 14 ft/lbs
Camshaft holder plate bolts (12mm) - 20 ft/lbs
Cam caps (10mm) - 7.2 ft/lbs

Oil pan to block nuts/bolts - 8.7 ft/lbs
Oil drain plug - 33 ft/lbs
Oil pickup tube to block/oil pump - 8 ft/lbs
Windage tray bolts - 8 ft/lbs
Flywheel to block bolts - 76 ft/lbs
Pressure plate to flywheel bolts - 19 ft/lbs
Main bearing caps - 56 ft/lbs
Rod bearing caps - 23 ft/lbs (Refer to ARP's instructions for ARP rod bolts)
Oil pump to block (12mm) - 17 ft/lbs
Oil pump to block (10mm) - 8 ft/lbs
Water pump to block bolts - 8.7 ft/lbs
Thermostat to block bolts - 8.7 ft/lbs

 

Any fool can remove the "rivets" in 10 seconds with a pair of pliers. Need a VTEC headgasket because of them? ... *laughs*.

 

some vtec kits include the gasket

 

OK guys,
I have Actually built one. As in compeltely planned and assembled and installed by just me. It is my car as we speak with about 16,000 miles on it. With that said. I already noted you can drill them out if you want. But the oil galleies and coolant passages are also in slightly different locations. Yes You CAN MAKE a Ls gasket work. But you can just install (with no modification) a vtec gasket.
I also am aware that EVERY site says LS gasket. But again the head will NOT seal properly if you just install a LS gasket without moding it in some way. I will see if I can find the site with the PHOTO evidence of what I am talking about.

Nick

 

http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/includ...yGEMgasket.jpg

Here ya go. Pictures for everyone to see.


Nick

 

Stop saying the word drill. As I have already noted, you can do it with pliers in 10 seconds, but keep on exaggerating the difficulty...

 

WOW REALLY!!!!!!!! OMG EVERYONE USE PLIERS.... I will just get the CORRECT gaskets and not have to use a drill or pliers on a brand new gasket. Tool...

Nick

 

Do you think you're doing yourself any credibility favours calling people tools?

You think using pliers is a challenge for someone undertaking an engine build and swap?

Grow up.

 

You think a drill is a challenge? The OP wanted to know the correct gasket to use. Bottom line is LS is the wrong one. There is way too much mis information on here from people who have probably NEVER built ANY motor. I chimmed in cause I know what the OP needed. Does'nt help that people just pull a list off the internet and say "here ya go man" Mating the wrong gasket can reallt F up a motor depending on the build.
BTW I have never pulled rivots with pliers so maybe it is faster, Dont care. I think the RIGHT way is with a drill. There are many ways to do everything. I also dont care about what others think of my "credibility". You guys wanna build em wrong... go ahead. I still think you are a tool specifically for saying "use pliers" and "dont exaggerate the difficulty" and the "*laughs*" about using the correct gasket.

Nick

 

You use a grinder + wire-wheel to clean the cereal from your dishes, right?

Your entire argument is falsified by the mere existence of a single working LSVTEC/B20VTEC using the non-VTEC headgasket. How much do you want to bet me that there are none?

 

74,000 miles on LS/vtec here, and I beat it like I stole it. LS headgasket, rivets removed, no leaks to speak of. Oh and it gets sprayed with 100whp shot on track days.

 

Yea, yea what ever. You guys need to read what I write. You CAN use a LS gasket but, You HAVE TO MAKE MODS TO IT! You can install a vtec gasket with no mods. A ls gasket will not leak when the rivots are pulled, I know this. In the pics you can plainly see the coolant passages BLOCKED by the LS gasket.
You gonna argue that you have to pull rivots and that it blocks coolant passages? Go grease your muffler bearings dude.
Due to the fact you need NO MODS to have a vtec gasket work on a LSV setup, I consider that the "CORRECT" gasket to use. Anyone want to live in the stone age of LSV's can continue to use LS gaskets and mod them. Again I dont care.
I guess Golden Eagle is wrong too then.

BTW: I do keep steel wool under my sink....

Nick

 

LS gasket is the correct one.
Nick please stop talking, do more research.

 

Wow that's a lot of drama lol
If u answer the original question yes u can use a vtec gasket with no modification

 

the vtec gasket is better cause the dowel holes are the size of the vtec dowels...but both gaskets can be used...goldeneaglemfg.com shows you why....go to the tech section...also ive used the vtec gasket that comes with golden eagle kit and never had a problem..

 

Wow that bitch session was unecessary lol. Alright this is going to sound like an oddly noob question but I honestly never dealt with a stock bore lsvtec motor so I was confronted by an interesting question the other day. Ok I read golden eagles website about the vtec gasket being te better choice. My only question is will a stock vtec head gasket work fine with the golden eagle dowels? This motor is a stock bore lsvtec with a b16 head so can I go grab a stock b16 head gasket and it will fit fine over the dowels? If so then why does golden eagle even sell head gaskets for lsvtec kits? Their head gaskets are more than stock ones from Honda even for stock bore gaskets. I have always had to use golden eagle in the past but only because I needed a gasket for a bigger note anyway bit this stock bore motor I'm not entirely sure I need to get a golden eagle one. Any help?