OK I really need some help with this one, I have swapped an LS-V into my 86 accord hatchback and I am having trouble getting it going. I had a test harness and a test sub-harness made by Rywire/jkob (they did a great job and gave me a very good price). I cannot seem to get the motor to start. The main relay clicks and the fuel pump fills up the fuel rail, the plugs have the Oder of fuel on them. I have spark and I have fuel, but the car just cranks and never starts. If I spray carb cleaner in the TB it will fire up for as long as the carb cleaner last (a couple of sec). I have checked all the grounds and I checked the ECU, Injectors, and Starter. The O2 sensor is not hooked up and the manifold temp sensor is not hooked up either. Also so you know, the Starter and Dizzy are brand new.

1991 B18a bottom end (Freshly rebuilt)
Stock pistons bored .20 over
ARP head and rod bolts
Fully balanced/shot-peen-ed and all parts were coated
New GSR/R Fuel pump and water pump
Lightened flywheel
GSR head Milled just a little
Cosmetic thin head gasket
STR Cam gears
AEBS intake manifold with stock GSR TB
Ebay Megan racing header modified with a 2.5 Collector
Full exhaust all the way back to a gt v6 Eclipse Muffler.
Chipped p72 ECU

I am getting a code 1 for the o2 and a code 20. Would either of those cause the car not to start on a freshly built motor?

 

Well if you have fuel, and you have spark, the 3rd thing needed for the engine to fire is compression. Have you done a compression check? Also, is it possible that the plug wires are on the distributor wrong (incorrect firing order)? Last, if some of the distributor wires are mixed up, its possible for this symptom to happen. Are you getting the normal check engine light on start up (cycles on for 2-3 seconds while the fuel pump rimes)?

 

I have not done a compression check yet and With the distributor I went with this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1290377 and yes I get the initial check engine light on start-up.

 

I would start with a compression check. If you don't have any compression, the fuel can't ignite. If you don't have easy access to a compression tester, another thing you could do is dump a "little" bit of oil into each cylinder through the spark plug holes (maybe 1 ounce tops) and turn the motor over slowly by hand before putting the plugs back in. Unless there's a mechanical reason for no compression, this should get you some PSI (enough for the motor to fire).

 

Well it fired up when we shot the throttle cleaner in there. So that should mean that there is enough compression to at least fire up? It's almost like the fuel and spark are not hitting at the same time.

 

Throttle cleaner is alot easier to ignite than an air/fuel mixture. You do need compression to ignite the normal mixture. I'm not saying you don't have compression. You should check. If you think you're not getting the spark at the right time, take off your distributor cap, and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire when the motor is at #1 cylinder TDC.

You should also check your distributor wiring to be absolutely sure that all the wires are going to the exact correct places on the ECU. Was your car previously fuel injected or did you convert from carburated? I often see distributor wiring errors made when converting from OBD0 to OBD1 that produce the exact symptoms that you are describing (I've done it myself).

 

are your injectors getting power and being switched by the ecu?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Throttle cleaner is alot easier to ignite than an air/fuel mixture. You do need compression to ignite the normal mixture. I'm not saying you don't have compression. You should check. If you think you're not getting the spark at the right time, take off your distributor cap, and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire when the motor is at #1 cylinder TDC.

You should also check your distributor wiring to be absolutely sure that all the wires are going to the exact correct places on the ECU. Was your car previously fuel injected or did you convert from carburated? I often see distributor wiring errors made when converting from OBD0 to OBD1 that produce the exact symptoms that you are describing (I've done it myself).
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The car was previosly injected, but it had a factory external coil system. I will check the distributor to make sure that it is right. I think you are right that the wireing being wrong. I have a digram of the ecu pinout, but I dont have the slightest idea of witch wires go to the ECU.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Thr86si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

are your injectors getting power and being switched by the ecu?
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I am getting power from where the Resistor box was removed and soldered together, and I know I have a good connection from the ECU to the injector, but I don't know if the ecu is even sending a signal or not. I am going to get a noid light to test ans see if they are getting signal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 86si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are your injectors getting power and being switched by the ecu?

SFWD 86 Civic Si
D16A1
11.31@130
2420lbs

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How in the hell did you get an 86 Si to weigh 2420 lbs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Legend_master &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I think you are right that the wireing being wrong. I have a digram of the ecu pinout, but I dont have the slightest idea of witch wires go to the ECU.
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You'll need a voltmeter (digital one would be best). They're pretty cheap these days. Should be able to get one for about $20. Next, you'll need to take apart the distributor again, and check for continuity on the Ohm scale of the voltmeter for each one of the wires iside the distributor, to make sure they go to the right pin at the ECU.

Basically, find the CYP-P (cylinder position sensor, orange wire) wire inside the distributor (probably should have a shop manual for this), and make sure there is continuity to pin B11 on the connector that plugs into the ECU. The B connector is the middle one (smallest one with 16 pins) and B11 would be on the top row (where the clip is to lock it into the ECU), and would be the wire in the middle, 1st wire of a group of 3 wires side by side. Next, make sure that the TDC-P (top dead center sensor, orange wire with blue stripe) goes to pin B13 (next to B11), and then last, the CKP-P (crank position sensor, blue wire with green stripe) goes to B15. The other 3 wires are all grounds for these sensors, and as long as they all go to B12, B14, or B16, it doesn't matter which is which, because they all connect to the exact same place inside the ECU on the circuit board.

The other wires that could be mixed up are the CYP-M (ground for cylinder position sensor, white wire) which should go to B12 and the white wire that goes to the ignitor inside the distributor from pin A21 (large connector with 26 pins).

I know this sounds like some serious stuff, but if you can follow through all this, and it checks out, you'll know for sure thats not the problem.

 

Actually you explained that quit well. I already have a volt meter and I am knowledgable with most electronics. I just dident know what was involved in the distributor. I am going to go check all of these right now. Thanks I will let you know what happens.

 

Jaker you are ******* awsome, I found that the b15 and b11 wire were mixed up on the harness. I will get my injectors back in there and see if it fires up.

 

Does it run now?

 

Wahoo, it alive. I got the injectors in there and it started right up. I couldent run it very long, because it has open pipes and it's to late around here. It sounded great and was ideling very smoothly. Thanks for all your help.

One more thing, do you know of a way to bypass the code 20 on the ECU. The part that is needed to make it work is built into the fuse box on the civics and integras.

 

2 ways:

Use a freeware software program to turn off the ELD (code 20) in your program. Something like Uberdata, or Crome.

Use a Canadian or JDM ECU (no ELD).

 

ok thanks I will look into that.

 

So I am getting an Antifreeze leak from the corner of my IM, I have a brand new AEBS manifold and a Brand new hondata gasket. it only leaks when the car is running. Any ideas?

 

Coolant is only pumping when the engine is running. Did you make sure the surfaces were clean? Just gets some silicone sealant.