The bolt on the lowet ball joint has some crossed threads. The castle nut will only go on part way and then just turns the ball joint . Do I have to replace the lower ball joint? How do I get it out of the knuckle? At least my other side went on smooth. Thanks guys.

 

If you cant get the nut off and clean up the threads then yes, you are going to have to replace the ball joint. They arn't that expensive the big cost is the labor involved. You can get new ball joints at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...catdisplay.jsp

The part category to look at is "Kunckle"

Good luck, Ball joints are a pain we must all endure.

Mike

 

Yes, the best thing is to just replace it. A hydraulic press is needed to remove them from the knuckle.

 

On a related note, does anyone sell just the uppper ball joint without the arm assembly?

 

nope

 

I heard an impact wrench might do the trick. Can I rent one from autozone? I got the puller from them and got my money back when I returned it. Also is there any way to rethread the ball joint? I have no experience with this so any info is appreciated.

 

I had one that was crossed up bad right where the nut first goes on. I cleaned up the threads with a super small file and it eventually went right on. When I started, it looked like someone had ground the threads flat. They were bad.

First just try having someone push the knuckle down in to the LCA hard at the same time you try to get it started. Ususally that will help keep the BJ from turning.

If you have to remove the joint, a press isn't needed. I've removed a few of them without a press. It takes about 2 minutes. Just take the boot off, take the clip that holds the join in there off, and then set the entire knuckle in the yard, or somewhere where it won't slide. Put a ballpeen (sp) hammer on the flat part of the joint with the ball part in the center top of the BJ. Slip a deepwell socket over the bolt part of the joint so that it's up against the part that the ball rotates in. Have some one hit it with a big hammer, and it will usually pop out in a bout 2-4 hits. The hammer on top helps relive the pressue of on the joint when the joint his against it. It makes the joint get a little narrower. I can't explain what I'm talking about, but do it, and it will work like a charm.

I'll try to get a picture.


[Modified by therealciviczc, 10:50 PM 3/9/2002]

 

I picked up a thread tap die set from Snap-On tools for $45 that has Metric, SAE course, and SAE fine which had the right thread pitch/size for the ball joints. The outside of it was a hex shape which you will need to be able to use a ratchet as the rotor is too close to use a conventional die tapping set.

Mine worked like a charm and my problem sounded identical to yours. If you have any problems click my profile to find out my contact information and I would be willing to help.

Good luck.