<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now for hard part, is it possible to install an led to the knock sensor to tell you when knock is going on in the cylinders?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I haven't heard of someone making one of these yet, but J&S (Safeguard) makes a little aftermarket system for your knock sensor (ks), because the stock Honda programming retards your timing a lot when it detects knock (can hurt your power output) and a hesitation in power is felt. The J&S lets you adjust the sensitivity of the knock sensor. If you want more info on J&S, do a Google search.

Another option for you is to have your ecu reprogrammed with a disabled knock sensor, but I don't know if you're wanting to use your KS for a purpose or not. A lot of people usually have the KS disabled though, for performance enhancement reasons. It doesn't hurt your engine having a disabled KS either (up to right around 12.0 compression ratio and running on 91+ octane fuel).

 

right now I'm using a p28 which does not require a knock, sensor but everone is telling me thats not smart, the p28 was chipped raising the rev limit to 9100rpm even though I dont rev that high, I'm fullz building the bottom end and top end will have all stock parts, the p28 I used was from my d16z6, now b16a it work well, but I melted mz stock pistons on detonation, I dont want to do this on these expensive je pistons, but the question is will the modded p28 be ok? even though the chip sortha raise compression, but it should be able to be retartded at the distributor right?

 

bump!<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right now I'm using a p28 which does not require a knock, sensor but everone is telling me thats not smart, the p28 was chipped raising the rev limit to 9100rpm even though I dont rev that high, I'm fullz building the bottom end and top end will have all stock parts, the p28 I used was from my d16z6, now b16a it work well, but I melted mz stock pistons on detonation, I dont want to do this on these expensive je pistons, but the question is will the modded p28 be ok? even though the chip sortha raise compression, but it should be able to be retartded at the distributor right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right now I'm using a p28 which does not require a knock, sensor but everone is telling me thats not smart, the p28 was chipped raising the rev limit to 9100rpm even though I dont rev that high, I'm fullz building the bottom end and top end will have all stock parts, the p28 I used was from my d16z6, now b16a it work well, but I melted mz stock pistons on detonation, I dont want to do this on these expensive je pistons, but the question is will the modded p28 be ok? even though the chip sortha raise compression, but it should be able to be retartded at the distributor right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you did indeed "melt" your pistons, then it was not from detonation, it was from running lean. The only way you could "melt" a piston is with extreme heat. Detonation will crack things, not melt them. The stock knock sensor is not the savior that you think it is. People who say that its "not smart" to run without it obviously don't understand how it works. Running forged pistons would most likely aggrivate the knock sensor also because they typically "knock" more then stock pistons do. It should be disabled when running forged pistons, which you won't need to worry about using the P28. The reason your engine died before is not a result of the P28 itself. You ran a shitty tuned chip, period. Retarding at the distributor is not the correct way to resolve your issue. You need to get the ECU tuned correctly, otherwise its going to either die again, or never make the power that it could.

Also, if the valvetrain is indeed all stock as you say, then I would NOT take it beyond 8,200rpms by any means. Unless of course you like rebuilding your engine for the hell of it.

 

thanks! this the best answer I got from all the forum I ask this questions, I was using the vafc hack with the blown up setup, and I want to continue using it, but everyone say it wont handle past 12 psi, I cant afford a another engine management ecu, so what can I do to take advantage of these low compression forged pistons?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks! this the best answer I got from all the forum I ask this questions, I was using the vafc hack with the blown up setup, and I want to continue using it, but everyone say it wont handle past 12 psi, I cant afford a another engine management ecu, so what can I do to take advantage of these low compression forged pistons?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The stock MAP sensor can read up to around 11psi if you chip the ecu to support it. I would toss the VAFC and go this route. If you want to run past 12psi, get a GM 3 bar map sensor and then again the ECU can be chipped to support this as well. You don't need to spend the money on Hondata and stuff to get it to work either. PM me for more info.