the crank position sensor is killing me

The orginal harness that came with the car was hacked up to begin with and was modified for a usdm obd1 b18a. I spliced the two distributor plugs to fit the one plug on the jdm distributor. The only 2 wires left out of the harness were the two for the ckp sensor. I have an obd1 ecu and a jkobd obd0->obd1 conversion harness. I traced the ecu B15 pin from the conversion harness out to the yellow O2 12v signal wire on the subharness.

Can someone please help me figure out what to do with this? I've tried splicing the yellow wire with the ckp signal wire and the 2 grounds with no success. Maybe I'm missing something here?

Any help is very appreciated.

 

http://effinmotorworks.com/Effin_MPFI_swap.htm

The ECU pinouts for both a DPFI and MPFI harness are there. Check and make sure your OBD0 Distributor wiring traces back to the correct wires at the distributor. (color match)
If you need someone to completely rebuild that harness for your engine Look no further
http://www.rywire.com
Could probably do it for $140, give me a call sometime. #'s on the website.

 

my biggest problem is that most of the wires on the jdm distributor are different colors then whats on a usdm distributor. The ckp wires on my distributor are blue(#2) and white(#6). The only wires that arent' hooked up to anything are the two for the CKP sensor. Today I checked the resistance on everything to make sure they were within spec and made jumpers from the #2 and #6 wires on the distributor harness straight to the B15 and B16 pins on the harness just off the ECU. Checked for shorts and again checked for resistance between teh two but still came up with a code 4.

I'm also getting 2 other codes. Code 10 and code 14 could these two be related to the code 4 at all?

My head is spinning.....

 

One of the first things I would do is connect the wires straight from the ECU plug to the distributor plug. Just use a needle and take the wires out of the ecu plug and connect them outside the plug and put some electrical tape. D15 is the BLUE/GREEN wire and D16 is the BLUE/YELLOW wire. With those 2 wires connected, I would check resistance at the ECU plug. It should be between 350-550 ohms. If its not under specs, then you probably need another distributor. If its under specs, then plug the ECU back on and take out the ECU fuse in the underhood fuse block for 10 seconds. Put the fuse back in and crank the car. This should eliminate the problem. By the way, when you run the 2 crank sensor wires from the ECU plug to the distributor plug, try and run them from the OBD-1 ECU plug. Let me know how it turns out.

 

I did trace all the wires out on the original harness today by checking for continuity with a fluke. The car is a 1990 civic dx with a dpfi-&gt;mpfi harness. The wires were matched using the diagram located here: http://effinmotorworks.com/Effin_MPFI_swap.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow external">http://[<a href="http://effinmotorwo...I_swap.htm</a>

except for one thing and I noticed this before I quit for the day. my c1 and c2 wire are not orange and white but grn/blk and ylw/red. Also, the b10 and b12 have been pinned with orange and white. These four are not connected in any way.

The way the car is wired up right now I should NOT be getting a code. All of the ckp/cyp/tdc wires were traced and re-traced out today. Continuity at the car's harness works out but continuity from the conversion harness doesn't.

I'm not blaming the conversion harness because like i said before the cars's harness was chopped up to begin with, but I'm just getting frustrated because this is the only sensor that's keeping me from going over 3000rpm not to mention I've been struggling with this for 3 weeks now, knowing its something stupid

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I even tried using an obd0 integra ecu into the existing harness and still got the same code


Modified by Redlineracer at 10:56 PM 7/16/2005

 

all the specs are right BTW. 398.8 ohms at the plug and distributor and no continuity between the sensor and ground.

 

how did you check for continuity?? Everything has to be plugged in. By everything, I mean the ECU, the connector for the distributor and the plug on the passenger side. I also had a code 4 problem but i got it fixed. If the computer is not plugged in and you have a continuity problem then your multimeter wont show continuity. Did you unplug the ECU and check it for continuity at the ECU plug??

What i did to check for continuity is take the wires out of the plug in the distributor plug. I took out the orange and the white wire and connected them. Then i check for continuity one at a time. First orange with one of the leads and the other lead to a good ground on the block or a metal piece in the distributor housing. If you dont get any numbers on the multimeter then there is no continuity and everything is good. Do the same with the white wire.

Let me know what you get after you do this. If you did it this way then we need to check something else.

 

that was already done with no success. I did however, switch the ckp and cyp wires at the dizzy plug and the code 4 went away but a code 9 came about. The motor seems to run A LOT better(not to mention I can actually go past 3000rpm now) but the code 9 still bothers me. I'm going to check the cam timing next weekend and if thats not it I'll replace the dizzy and see what happens.

Any other suggestions?

 

Do you have an adjustable cam gear???

My brother's car had an adjustable cam gear and it didnt seat all the way down so there was excessive play between the cam gear and the camshaft and that was the reason why he got code 4.

 

FIXED!!

Thanks for all the patience and suggestions.

It turned up to be a damn distributor bearing giving way. I popped in a new(used) distributor and it went right away.