NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

I have been searching for literally 5 hours on each of these problems individually and I still haven't found an answer to my problems. If you know another post that could help me out, please post it up, you can yell at me for "not searching" if you want but I just got tired of reading thread after thread w/ no results.

So on with the problems. Okay guys I finished my swap yesterday and the car is drivable, but it's not running right at all. Some background info, just in case anything is relevant...

Car- 1993 Civic Si
Motor- 1996 JDM ITR
Wiring harness- 2001 USDM GSR
ECU- USDM OBD1 P72 (w/ vtec pressure and IABs dissabled- this was just a quick fix until I am done making my conversion harness for the P73)

mods that may have an effect on the motor's problems...

Spoon 70mm TB (clean as a whistle)
Open Mugen header
Unadjusted FPR (it was tuned for a B16 w/ toda Cs)
AEM fuel rail

Okay so here's the rundown of the swap so far. Upon installation the TPS sensor was damaged so I removed one from my old motor. At the time of installation I didn't realize that it needed to be calibrated, but I now know that, and I have calibrated it properly. After intial fire-up the motor surges pretty bad, but only throws a code 14 (IACV). I check to find out that I had the wrong plug hooked up to the IACV. I plug in the correct plug and reset the ecu. fire it up, same bogging and still getting a code 14. Change over the IACV off the motor that was just in my car, ruling out the possibility of a bad IACV. So I decide that it can't be anything serious and drive the car home about 25 miles away and take the freeway the whole way back @ about 4000 rpm the whole way. To my suprise the engine never overheats despite the cooling system being only partially full. Shortly upon entering the freeway I notice that my VSS must not be working because I am not getting a speedo reading, but I am not getting a VSS code The car sputters pretty hard and the throttle is like a lightswitch, on or off. I decide to call it a night and just go in and go to sleep when I get home.

So this morning I decided to recalibrate the TPS (I set it to .46V it's supposed to be .45 +/- .05) hoping to eliviate the stuttering problem so I can get the car to idle and let the coolant bleed. I found out that the IACV code will be thrown if the cooling system has air in it, which I am sure mine does. So I fix the TPS and start up the car, it still sputters but not as bad as before. It still won't idle though so I can't fill the coolant. I messed w/ the idle adjustment screw a little, but it didn't seem to be making a bit of difference so I decided to take the car out for a spin to try to heat up the motor so the thermostat will open and the coolant will cycle. I take the motor up to 6500-7000 in first and second (vtec doesn't engauge, I'm assuming because of the VSS) and when I get back home I find out that the thermostat still never opened. The throttle felt a lot better than before but still sputters a little. I decide to check my codes again just to see if something new pops up. And of course something new did pop up, code 23 (knock sensor) so I'm thinking awe ****. I know that the knock sensor is good, there is no doubt in my mind that it is, I drove 25 miles the night before w/ no problems.

*So here I am, symptoms now remain at...

-Car won't idle, it dies unless you give it a little gas, you can hold the pedal just ever so slightly and it will idle @500 RPM w/ no sputtering, but you have to hold it, the second I remove my foot it dies.

-Code 14 IACV, which I am sure must be either electrical (which I doubt) or the coolant level is too low, which I am sure it is.

-Code 23, which I am hoping is just being caused by detonation from poor ignition.

-No speedo reading but no VSS code is being thrown???

*Here is my game plan for tomorrow, please add ANY insight/comments/ideas if you have any, I really need some help.

-Put a catalytic converter on the car, so I don't kill the neighborhood w/ noise.

-Replace spark plugs and wires (one of the wires that is on the motor now has a crack in the boot at the dizzy end, but I can't imagine that being a problem)

-Retorque the intake manifold

-HOPE TO GOD that the car will idle so I can add coolant and adjust ignition timing.

*WHAT ELSE SHOULD I TRY???

-Re-calibrate the TPS to a lower voltage than .45V?

-Check torque on the Knock sensor?

-Just retard/advance the timing slightly and see if it idles?


<FONT SIZE="20"> thanks in advance!!!</FONT>

other things to note...

O2 sensor is for sure good.

Thorttle bypass screw doesn't do jack for the problem.

There is no fast idle thermo valve.


Modified by BLAME_canada at 8:34 AM 9/14/2004


Modified by BLAME_canada at 7:57 PM 9/14/2004

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

continuing to search, I'll post up if I find out anything new.

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

haha, I was afraid of this... anybody have any ideas???

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

changed out the plugs and wires... didn't seem to make a difference, although one of the plug wires looked like it was popped off at the dizzy and also the number 4 spark plug journal is full of some white chalky powder???

Turbogixxer

First things, first. check for vaccums leaks.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLAME_canada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-Car won't idle, it dies unless you give it a little gas, you can hold the pedal just ever so slightly and it will idle @500 RPM w/ no sputtering, but you have to hold it, the second I remove my foot it dies.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What does the car idle at with your foot off it? does it idle at all?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLAME_canada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I-Code 14 IACV, which I am sure must be either electrical (which I doubt) or the coolant level is too low, which I am sure it is. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Clean the vavles out with carb clean (the two holes)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLAME_canada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-Code 23, which I am hoping is just being caused by detonation from poor ignition.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, you wire it to D3 from the chassis harness?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLAME_canada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-No speedo reading but no VSS code is being thrown??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Pull the VSS out and check the gear(s)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLAME_canada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-Re-calibrate the TPS to a lower voltage than .45V?

-Check torque on the Knock sensor?

-Just retard/advance the timing slightly and see if it idles?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The TPS is fine at that voltage.

you do not need to torque the Konck sensor

What is the timing at now?

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First things, first. check for vaccums leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Checked for vaccum leaks... none to be found

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What does the car idle at with your foot off it? does it idle at all? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no it won't idle.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Clean the vavles out with carb clean (the two holes)</TD></TR></TABLE>

no need to, I removed the IAC off a car that was running fine.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]No, you wire it to D3 from the chassis harness?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't mess w/ anyharnesses, should be plug and play. Again, it didn't throw this code origionally, so I don't think there is anything wrong w/ the knock sensor... I guess re-torquing it isn't a bad idea, I think I said before that I am going to do that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pull the VSS out and check the gear(s)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will do that, but I highly doubt there is anything wrong, it's a brand new VSS.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The TPS is fine at that voltage.</TD></TR></TABLE>

okay, but I am still concerned w/ it not holding an idle...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you do not need to torque the Konck sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>

well I have heard the contrary numerous times, people say the knock sensor is very picky about the torque and if it is just a little off you will get a code 23

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the timing at now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know, the car won't idle

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLAME_canada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I didn't mess w/ anyharnesses, should be plug and play. Again, it didn't throw this code origionally, so I don't think there is anything wrong w/ the knock sensor... I guess re-torquing it isn't a bad idea, I think I said before that I am going to do that</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are still running your Old civic chassis harness, YOU have wire teh knock sensor from teh shock tower connectors to teh ECU. No way around it if yo urun the civic chassis harness.

You switch your MAP and TPS plugs up?

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you are still running your Old civic chassis harness, YOU have wire teh knock sensor from teh shock tower connectors to teh ECU. No way around it if yo urun the civic chassis harness.

You switch your MAP and TPS plugs up?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ohh I didn't know that... I'll search for info on that thanks.

No the MAP and TPS are doing great

I checked the VSS and 1 wire backed out of the plug, so I put it back in and I now get a speed reading and vtec engauges (yay!).

The car still won't idle though, I think I am going to adjust the tps untill the car will idle.

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

okay I'm going to take my vtec pressure wire and re-locate it at the chassis connection and move it to the D3 slot for the ecu, since it will not be used. Makes for much faster/better looking wiring rather than directly wiring the knock.

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

Okay I traced the IAC wire from the ecu to it's location on the strut tower connection. I found the wire that it corresponded w/ on the integra wiring harness. I then located to plug for the IAC... my buddy plugged it into the IAT So now I think I have fixed everything that was wrong w/ the swap, but I will have to wait until tomorrow to know for sure because I can't be firing it up right now w/ an open header .

Turbogixxer

Sweet, man. Why you moving it to D3, that is knock on OBD1

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet, man. Why you moving it to D3, that is knock on OBD1</TD></TR></TABLE>

because I'm running a jdm motor, which doesn't have a vtec pressure wire, so I am relocating vtec pressure wire to be used as the knock, so it still looks oem.

NIKE SB'd

iTrader: (1)

still getting a IACV code 14... just went out and quadruple checked the wiring and it's all good. Anybody have any idea if a TB gasket leak or an improperly adjusted TPS can cause this code?

Mr.OB*GYN_Rhett

iTrader: (2)

just scrap that motor, its obviously crap and a half. hope i could help out