HatchbackSqueegee

Well I thought i was wraping up my 94 SI with GSR swap today and went to fire it up. And it didn't turn over. All the lights on the dash kicked on 2 times when I cycled threw the ignition. On the third try all the dash went dark. All fans were still kicking on but no lights on the dash. Also the motor was not turning over and I did not hear the relay kick in at all at any point. I'm at a lost of what to do.

The back ground I can give you is. I did have one issue with the starter being HOT b/c some of the sheathing was removed and the hot cable to the starter was directly in contact with the housing of the starter. (before I tried starting car) It started an huge Arc from the postive cable to the battery, I saw this problem and was able to fix it. Not sure if that could have killed the starter? If it did why would the dash stop lighting up wouldn't it just affect the starter?

Everything is OBD1..... 94 eg SI and 95 GSR. I am using stock GSR ECU and OEM wire harnesses.

Any help much appreciated it. As I'm at a loss right now scratching my head.

HatchbackSqueegee

These are the only 2 wires I added to the ECU I'm guessing thats all I have to do for the KS and IAB? I did NOT switch any other pins or anything so I'm not sure if this is affecting anything? This is 94 SI and GSR swap.

HatchbackSqueegee

The starter cable was in direct contact with starter housing and this is what caused the ARC with the battery. I'm not sure if this affected anything. This was BEFORE I had tried to start it. Like I mentioned all lights would kick on, on the dash the first 2 times but 3rd and 4th no lights but all fans were running. I Had battery tested and it checked out Good! As you can see I bent the cable away from starter housing wrapped the exposed copper with electrical tape and spaced it out with a washer to make sure it wouldn't touch.

Also notice the little plug that has broken lose from the previous owners JB weld job. It still makes good contact with plug.

SiR831

Did you blow any fuses? Since the car doesn't crank you can jump the starter. Disconnect the wire going to the JB welded part, turn the ignition switch on (2nd position), and apply battery voltage to JB welded terminal where the black/white wire was. If the starter is okay and everything is hooked up correctly then the car should start and run. Make sure the car is in neutral and the E brake is applied.

HatchbackSqueegee

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiR831 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you blow any fuses? Since the car doesn't crank you can jump the starter. Disconnect the wire going to the JB welded part, turn the ignition switch on (2nd position), and apply battery voltage to JB welded terminal where the black/white wire was. If the starter is okay and everything is hooked up correctly then the car should start and run. Make sure the car is in neutral and the E brake is applied. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm checking all fuses tomorrow first thing (its late now). How should I apply battery voltage? By running a heavy gauge wire from the positive terminal of the battery directly to the Solenoid terminal (JB welded terminal) or just use the starter cable (I guess it would be same thing)?
Thanks

P.S. If it runs then I'm good to go? If not then...... next

HatchbackSqueegee

Found only fuse that blew. Any ideas on what would cause it?

SiR831

u got PM. Let us know if you get the car running.

HatchbackSqueegee

I got the car to turn over today, Fuel pump is pumping strong. Car would not start up tho. And none of the fuses blew, so I feel im getting closer. I'm going to go threw and check all the spark plugs to make sure each of them is giving out spark tomorrow when I have off (have to work now). Any thing else anyone can think of?

HatchbackSqueegee

Thanks to everyone for their advice, the car is up and running! Something was screwed up with the distributer. So I ordered a new one and it all worked out fine. Only thing I noticed now is it seems to idle a little high around 1100-1200rpm's and was thinking it should be around 900rpm's. Only thing not hooked up at moment is knock sensor (waiting on tool to remove old one)