solsurvivor

Well guys, winter has started and that means no mowing laws, trimming hedges etc etc. That means my *** is bored and aching for a new challenge. HONTEC has been building more and more odd projects lately and it's becoming more of a challenge to be creative. I think I've hit the sweetspot with this one, always was a fantasy to build a rwd honda with the engine longitudonally placed like the JGTC cars. Decided to go nuts and just do it..Bought a Porsche G50 5-speed transaxle which will be mounted with an adapter inverted to an NSX C30A 3,0L V6 DOHC Vtec. All this will be placed in the rear of an Integra Type R RHD Chassis. Next to the Civic EK we're building right now for full circuit use with a K20 with sadev 6-speed sequential transmission/drysump this will be my winter project.

The Porsche G50:



Furthermore I laid my hands on 8 ex BTCC Accord centerlock wheels 8x19 ET+55










Brakes will be AP discs 380x32 mm with Wilwood 6 Pot calipers on all 4 corners( Yes! I have a Brake Fetish!!):









The RWD base will start with 92-95 Civic AWD rear trailing arms which were built for the Japanese and Austrian markets:





Bored today: 16x7 ET+50 oem jdm Itr wielen:





8x19 ET+55 BTCC Accord:





Update 04-11-2008

Well read 243435336373 workshop manuals and walked around with my dial caliper for 23 days and found out there is not too much difference in the trailing arms for a 97-02 crv and 92-95 AWD civic. The AWD trailing arm has a one piece bearing retainer but unfortunately for a bearing diameter that does not suit my requirements (too small a diameter) However the crv bearing has the same bore as the front ITR bearings!! The only difference is that the awd setup has a bearing flange and the crv has a separate bearing...even better!!! lathed down the awd bearin house and mounted the crv bearing to the awd counterflange!!! eureka!! and the standard ITR hub fits like a glove with now the ability to fit a standard ITR front CV joint!! This is what I was looking for...compatibility,..The ITR hub needs some modification because the bearing for the crv is 4mm thicker than the ITR bearing, but that's easily fixed..

Pics:

oem 92 civic awd inner brace with bearing retainer:




CRV complete bearing and flange as one unit:





ITR 27mm drive spline and hub that will actually fit the crv bearing:





Total setup:

solsurvivor

Update 07-11-2008

Went on modifying the bearing house, before surgery:





After:





Brace and bearing fit neatly now:





With the trailing arm inbetween:









Now the decision to either use the ITR CV-joint or porsche Stub axles:

ITR:



Porsche Stub, needs to be milled down to 27mm with honda 26 spline drive..gives me the advantage of easy axle changes on the circuit withou removing trailing arm and extremely strong:



Porsche Lobro:



Idea of how it will look with centerlock hub:

solsurvivor

Update 22-11-2008



Tha bitch has arrived:

















Update 23-11-2008


Glass out, all rusted parts will be replaced with oem parts, except the roof which will be a custom molded autoclaved dry carbon unit:
















update 25-11-2008




Scrap:




Nose Job:

solsurvivor

update 29-11-2008


Looking good: temporary setup using a Legend C35A5 for dimension and axle line-up...
extremely low center of gravity....and no major issues with axle line-up...Me=Happy!!:

iwanttokillgod

this **** is gonna be awesome

Jaker

Do you feel it is absolutely necessary to use the brace for the back of the trailing arm with the legs going to the bolt holes? I am following this exact same route, but had considered ommitting the rear brace, and simply bolting through the trailing into the CRV bearing mount. Also, how do you feel about the fact that there appears to be no circlip to retain the bearing in the housing from the inside. I'm concerned that the bearing could walk towards the inside of the housing, causing the hub to make contact with the bearing housing on the outside.

88ED8

NICE!!!!!

teefunk01

intense

solsurvivor

I do strongly feel the brace is a must, otherwise you're bolting the main bearing to a piece of sheetmetal only. With the brace you're locking the sheetmetal inbetween, allthough the sheetmetal is quite thick and fully shaped, I prefer to have it installed.
The bearing is a solid piece with a flange in the middle on the inside, on both sides the ballbearings are laid in and on both sides the bearing races on top.When you insert the CV joint spline, it has nowhere to go...not worried at all about that..

My main issue was the stock 92-95 AWD rear bearing which is 8mm smaller in diameter then the crv bearing, also strange when you look at it is the crv bearing with an ITR front hub(you will need to mill it slightly) allows for a 27mm spline CV joint whereas the stock crv driveshaft is one that I believe looks like it will snap when you put more then 150hp on it.

The way I described it above is the way for me, I need to put around 350HP to my wheels which is doable with this setup (porsche stub axles with driveshafts with porsche lobro's on both ends)


Randall

Jaker

I agree with you 100% on the Civic driveshaft joint size and strength. I am also using the CRV bearing holder/housing. I will be using a normal Integra hub (non-ITR, 4 bolt). I also expect 300-350 WHP.

I have sent you a private message.

solsurvivor

Replied!

88ED8

updates?

solsurvivor

damn....I'm not that quick!!lol.... I also have to build other cars...

88ED8

hondaholland

pics arent working Randall, nice project!

solsurvivor

yeah, seem to have exceeded the bandwith.........strange guys at photobucket

ickyhonda

Right click>properties>copy url adress>paste in the web browser. Looks sick, I was not looking forward to my choices on my build and your ITR hub solution is getting me pumped, maybe even enough to get motivated to finish my car. Thanks!

solsurvivor

I hope so, I'm not going to give up, I have to make this work.....I've always wanted to make a honda mid engined rwd, and this will be the one........

finish your project, it will have ups and downs, it may take a little longer but i think in the end it will be worth it...

Randall

purplecivicturbo

This build is looking to be amazing! I love the amount of legwork youve done with the rear arms!! Are you using genuine civic 92-95 AWD rear trailing arms?

RallySol

Huzzah! Pics work again!

Very interesting. Where are you going to mount the caliper bracket to and are you going to do anything with the bushing in the middle of the trailing arm?

purplecivicturbo

This thought had occurred to me also, have you considered replacing the trailing arm main bush with a spherical bearing to reduce forward/rear deformation under torque from the rear wheels

Jaker

Here's the setup I'll be using. PCI trailing arm spherical bearings with solid captured bearings (no plunge) and I've eliminated the toe control links. I've also made a bit of room for my tires to clear the trailing arm. Thanks Justin for the fabulous welding/fab work.




Here's a couple pics of the OBX diff in the Wagovan rear diff housing.

88ED8

May I ask why?

Jaker

I'm looking to maintain a specific toe setting through the travel. Don't want it toe-ing in under compression.

4doorekITR

wow man..this is a creative build .I wish you the best of luck with this. I cant wait to see the finished outcome..Very very nice my friend!