Bense

There's more than one way to do this, but here's how I did it. This writeup is intended for those that don't need pictures for every step of the way.

Here is the trans test fitted up to the engine you can see how much needs to be ground away


Grinding away


Not too hard


This too


Then you'll have to read some of the stuff that applies to H2B here.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1998426

You'll need to remove the timing cover, you'll need a single channel crank pulley and you'll need that washer that I talk about in the H2B FAQ

You'll need to use a H23/F22 manual tensioner and shorten the bolt for the timing belt tensioner, make sure you use a M10-1.25 die to thread the bolt and then cut it short. I speak about this more and provide pics in the H2B FAQ.

You'll also need to notch the frame for the crank pulley


Another idea that i contemplated is using a thicker washer from mcmaster.com and flipping the crank pulley around backwards. This will require removing material from the oil pump. you'll see what i mean when you have everything apart.

I then spaced my engine down with washers and M12 spherical washers from mcmaster.com. This moved the timing belt away from the shock tower.

For the slave cylinder I used a piece of angle iron with some holes drilled in it and bolted into the trans mount with a M12-1.25 bolt.


For the engine mount I used a DC2 mount bolted onto a ghetto fab bracket. It's a piece of channel and it looks super redneck and trashy (just my style) but it works fine and I'm confident that I won't have any problems with this.




I used grade 8 half inch bolts cut to length to fit. I also used 2 more M12 spherical washers that I ordered from mcmaster to keep the head of the bolt seated level.



If you need to space your hood out you'll use M6-1.0 bolts with washers.

I think that's it for now most of the information is in the H2B FAQ with more pictures and stuff. Good luck




http://bisimoto.com has the plates


OH, slave cylinder bracket. Use a piece of angle iron and drill holes in it. Then use a M12-1.25 bolt that's about 25mm in length and thread it into the trans housing.


Special tools needed for this job
1. paint pen ($3)
2. angle grinder ($75)
3. drill (who doesn't have one of these?
4. 1/2" drill bit
5. 13/32 or 7/16 drill bit? (just buy a set of drill bits)
6. a level to get the head level (level headed )

The swap isn't that hard. The hardest part was the euro manifold and finding out what all has to be done. Since I've done this, you have nothing to worry about.

If you want you can get a piece of cardboard or a piece of wood and bolt it onto the block where the mount goes. Then mark that piece of tree when you get everything in the right place. Then take it off and use it as a reference. If you have the ability to measure and cut and think you shouldn't have any problem with this.

I highly suggest using aftermarket mounts or using some polyurethane fill to keep the engine from swaying into the frame rail.

If you're patient and use your head, you will end up spending no more than twenty dollars for your mount brackets. Yes this swap requires work. But for k-series power, with stock axles, 20 dollar mounts, stock shift linkage, no 1000 dollar k-pro price, stock radiator, etc etc etc. It still makes it worth the prep work.

Again, this took more time for me because I had to figure most of this out on my own.

Boost_V

long awaited. Nice job man.

94c1v1cex

nice writeup... will the h2d be any quicker than the h2b?

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94c1v1cex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice writeup... will the h2d be any quicker than the h2b?</TD></TR></TABLE>

depends no the gearing.

LS trans = EX trans

EX/ZC Hybrid = GSR trans with LS final drive


H2D is great for those with a hybrid trans

threesixoneentertainment

I think I need a new tranny... can i do this even though i cut half my tranny mount on my chassis for the h22 mount in my del sol? did you get a chance to ship that header by any chance?

KhanhCord

nice job..

DecentCivicZ6

***** *****..thats tight...but...lol... this better not raise the price of d series transmissions now...damm..before you know it there will be no more D trannys, have to rebuild the dam things. lol

ps. why would you want a D series on those bigger engines anyway? they are braced or anything like a B series...Ive cracked the housing on 2 D series trannys with a turbo D16z6...haha... jsut wondering.

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DecentCivicZ6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ps. why would you want a D series on those bigger engines anyway? they are braced or anything like a B series...Ive cracked the housing on 2 D series trannys with a turbo D16z6...haha... jsut wondering.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had already built a d-series transmission with a quaife lsd, mfactory gears, new synchros, new bearings, new seals. I THEN decided to go H2D. But I knew that this option was available before I built the trans.

Bense

added some more stuff

Bense

As I know people will be skeptical of this here's how it works. As you can see there are 4 special bolts that bolt the plate to the block. There are also dowel pins integrated into the plate to ensure proper placement. There is also a bolt that goes through the backside of the block and threads into the plate

Bense

fafafsa

2point2

just an FYI, if one decides to not weld this shut, your unibody could crack/tear. Butt welding new material in is not enough either.. it has to be layered in (just like oem).

I speak from experience..

95egBubble

ok... so im doing this swap next weekend...

one thing i did not get was the alternator relocator and the washer from mcmaster.
i talked to the guy from explicit speed and he said that i wouldnt need the alternator relocator so i took his word for it.

so heres the parts that i have:

-the bisi half moon
-bisi flywheel
-cnc cylinder thinga ma bob for the hydro tranny (d16z6)
-balance shaft plate/block off thinger
-act clutch and pressure plate
-oem honda h22 timing belt, water pump ect ect...
-obviously h22a and z6 tranny.

umm and thats all i can think of off the top of my head.
so if there is ANYTHING that you could give me in tips that would be EXTREMELY helpful.
haha like the caps on anything and extremely?? ehh ehh??