night

anyone ever measure the difference between the two?

I have a B20v right now and am wondering how much more room I would need to leave the trans where it is a and drop the H in place

hondamark35

the Evolution H2B adapter plate is about 1/2 inch. the block from trans mating surface to the end of the crank snout is 19 3/4 inches. i'll let you measure you're B20V seeing as i haven't got one handy.

night

ahh thank you. Safe bet the QSD is even thicker?

hondamark35

wouldn't hurt to assume it were thicker. if you end up with an extra 1/4 in clearance, all the better.

Krut

If you successfully get the engine in there and everything bolted down you will be a GOD. It just doesn't seem possible to me, maybe if you put the engine in through the bottom, if you go from the top your going to be fighting very tight frame rail clearances along with the transmission sitting there. Remove the axles and one bolt and the trans is out, it'll be a lot easier just dropping it all in at once imo...

SL0WEGG

I'm pretty sure the qsd plate is the same thickness. I put my motor in from the bottom and then lifted it up with an engine hoist. Was fairly easy considering i was doing it by myself.

Krut

Maybe I miss understood him, but it sounded like he wants to leave the trans in the car while putting the motor in? is that correct? hence my previous post

SL0WEGG

Thats pretty much impossible.

night

No, I meant leaving mounts attaching the trans alone. I don't want to cut and reweld new mounts to slide the trans farther over. It is a matter of how much room I have from the drivers rail to the trans whether it will fit without turning it into a nightmare.
This is a research thing, I am not actually doing it right now.

SL0WEGG

the trans mount doesn't go anywhere. You just need to bang it just a little bit on the driver side to get a 1/4"-1/2" on the side rail just to clear the pulley, but mostly the tensioner bolt. You also should remove the rear balance shaft pulley. with a kit from qsd or bisi or kaizenspeed.

night

hmm, as it is right now my engine is lined up with a DA crossbar, the pan is level, and the axles are parallel with the ground (and slightly forward with the rear cross bar notched). I could not even put the crank pulley on. Had to take off the p/s ribs. Though I am thinking the 2 belt H with p/s removed should make up for it. If your .25- .5" is really all I'd need then I can handle that. (not really able to measure mine very well atm).
With the tri-y I have ground and hood issues. Also kinda thinking I would prefer the H to lean back more like it is supposed to and it might actually fit better height wise.

SL0WEGG

My pulley has like a 1/4" of clearance from where it is and the framerail. If you have solid mounts, you shouldn't have anything to worry about it. I have good clearance with my tri-y. The reason why the motor sits the way it does is because thats the only way the transmission fits back in the oem location.

night

everything is custom on my car so.. I'm kinda just used to thinking that way. but it does get irritating after a while.
I will have the ESP traction setup in place of the DA bar and another heim at the stock torque rod location on top of filled mounts. My engines shouldn't move at all.
With that heim of the ESP I could actually rotate the trans some.

Thanks for the help. Now if/when I run across a deal on an H I will grab it for a later project.