H22a CX hatch swap wiring problems
09-20-2003, 12:53 PM
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H22a CX hatch swap wiring problems
Ok heres the rundown
92 CX hatch with H22a swapped in
The car runs and drives but Its got constant CEL and you i cant pull any codes from the ECU. Runs a bit rough, no vtec, and it will stall if you are driving and push in the clutch to coast to a stop.
Im using a p13 ecu, and when i plug in my harness there is an empty plug on ECU. here is a pic
do i need to get some type of harness adapter to convert my three plug harness into a 4 plug?
It really puzzles me that i cant pull ECU codes, is the two pin connecter the one i am supposed to jump with a paperclip?
And one more thing, what color is the signal wire for the O2 sensor? Im trying to hook up a A/F gauge. The car still has the stock CX fuel pump and im wondering if that is seriously underpowered.The car has an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor and gauge, its running 39psi at idle and i thought i could turn it up or down if it seemed really rich or lean.
92 CX hatch with H22a swapped in
The car runs and drives but Its got constant CEL and you i cant pull any codes from the ECU. Runs a bit rough, no vtec, and it will stall if you are driving and push in the clutch to coast to a stop.
Im using a p13 ecu, and when i plug in my harness there is an empty plug on ECU. here is a pic
do i need to get some type of harness adapter to convert my three plug harness into a 4 plug?
It really puzzles me that i cant pull ECU codes, is the two pin connecter the one i am supposed to jump with a paperclip?
And one more thing, what color is the signal wire for the O2 sensor? Im trying to hook up a A/F gauge. The car still has the stock CX fuel pump and im wondering if that is seriously underpowered.The car has an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor and gauge, its running 39psi at idle and i thought i could turn it up or down if it seemed really rich or lean.
09-20-2003, 01:17 PM
#2
Re: H22a CX hatch swap wiring problems (cheezoto)
i know on the first pic, u are ok with that one plug empty. as for the rest.... hmmm... pm poison,(h22 eg god) hehehe....
09-20-2003, 02:50 PM
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Re: H22a CX hatch swap wiring problems (dohcVTEChatch)
Hmm thats wierd, My p13 ecu that came with the swap does not have the extra plug space. Its the same as the stock cx ecu except for the lable(p13,4ws,etc)
09-20-2003, 05:49 PM
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Re: H22a CX hatch swap wiring problems (CvexH22)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CvexH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm thats wierd, My p13 ecu that came with the swap does not have the extra plug space. Its the same as the stock cx ecu except for the lable(p13,4ws,etc)</TD></TR></TABLE>
mine has a 3J0 verticaly on either side of the sticker and then it reads 37820-P13-J00 555 J-MT
Could it possibly be an Obd2 ecu? and would that cause it to not run properly?
And that still dosent explain why i cant check ECU codes
mine has a 3J0 verticaly on either side of the sticker and then it reads 37820-P13-J00 555 J-MT
Could it possibly be an Obd2 ecu? and would that cause it to not run properly?
And that still dosent explain why i cant check ECU codes
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09-20-2003, 07:47 PM
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Re: H22a CX hatch swap wiring problems (HotWheelz)
You do NOT have an OBD-2 ECU, as those are OBD-1 dash plugs plugging into the ECU. You have (like the picture above) the 4WS ECU and it'll work just like a 5-spd ECU and you do not use that plug. Also, since you said your ECU stamp reads 37820-P13-J00 555 J-MT then you have a 5-spd ECU... it says MT on it and the J00 (0 = 5-spd, 5 = auto) also proves it.
For the plugs... the one with 2 wires on it is your CEL jumper and you use a paperclip to close the circuit when you have a check engine light. The other plug is apart of the dash harness and is not used.... I forget what exactly it's for but it has nothing to do with your swap so you can tuck that away up in the dash.
09-20-2003, 08:44 PM
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Re: H22a CX hatch swap wiring problems (Newman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Newman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You do NOT have an OBD-2 ECU, as those are OBD-1 dash plugs plugging into the ECU. You have (like the picture above) the 4WS ECU and it'll work just like a 5-spd ECU and you do not use that plug. Also, since you said your ECU stamp reads 37820-P13-J00 555 J-MT then you have a 5-spd ECU... it says MT on it and the J00 (0 = 5-spd, 5 = auto) also proves it.
For the plugs... the one with 2 wires on it is your CEL jumper and you use a paperclip to close the circuit when you have a check engine light. The other plug is apart of the dash harness and is not used.... I forget what exactly it's for but it has nothing to do with your swap so you can tuck that away up in the dash.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok so i have the proper ECU for the swap. That clears up one of the many things that could be wrong. The previous owner hacked into the harness in several places like the O2 sensor and EGR wires and there are sections where speaker wire is spliced in and connected to other wires. Is there anywhere i can find a wiring scematic for my application? Im not sure if i should look up one for a prelude or a civic?
I guess i have a Prelude engine harness connected to a civic inner harness connected to a prelude ECU.
I have tried many times using a paper clip to jump the circut on that two pin plug but i still cant get the car to display any codes. The CEL is on while the car is running so i dont understand why it wont display them in diagnostic mode? Could the hacked up wiring harness have anything to do with it? if somthing was connected incorrectly? I know im doing the procedure correctly, car off insert paperclip turn car to on but dont start..... and nothing happens.
Oh and thanks for your help, im getting so frustrated with not being able to figure the problems out its just good to get other peoples opinions and hear from someone who knows what they are talking about
You do NOT have an OBD-2 ECU, as those are OBD-1 dash plugs plugging into the ECU. You have (like the picture above) the 4WS ECU and it'll work just like a 5-spd ECU and you do not use that plug. Also, since you said your ECU stamp reads 37820-P13-J00 555 J-MT then you have a 5-spd ECU... it says MT on it and the J00 (0 = 5-spd, 5 = auto) also proves it.
For the plugs... the one with 2 wires on it is your CEL jumper and you use a paperclip to close the circuit when you have a check engine light. The other plug is apart of the dash harness and is not used.... I forget what exactly it's for but it has nothing to do with your swap so you can tuck that away up in the dash.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok so i have the proper ECU for the swap. That clears up one of the many things that could be wrong. The previous owner hacked into the harness in several places like the O2 sensor and EGR wires and there are sections where speaker wire is spliced in and connected to other wires. Is there anywhere i can find a wiring scematic for my application? Im not sure if i should look up one for a prelude or a civic?
I guess i have a Prelude engine harness connected to a civic inner harness connected to a prelude ECU.
I have tried many times using a paper clip to jump the circut on that two pin plug but i still cant get the car to display any codes. The CEL is on while the car is running so i dont understand why it wont display them in diagnostic mode? Could the hacked up wiring harness have anything to do with it? if somthing was connected incorrectly? I know im doing the procedure correctly, car off insert paperclip turn car to on but dont start..... and nothing happens.
Oh and thanks for your help, im getting so frustrated with not being able to figure the problems out its just good to get other peoples opinions and hear from someone who knows what they are talking about
09-21-2003, 07:55 AM
#10
get a prelude diagram and a civic diagram.
most commonly it is a civic harness modified to fit the h22a engine....but it sounmds like whoever did that wiring wasnt exactly the most brilliant.
you may need to do alot of tim tracing wires and rewiring with better wire using solder and heat shrink tubing as well...
most commonly it is a civic harness modified to fit the h22a engine....but it sounmds like whoever did that wiring wasnt exactly the most brilliant.
you may need to do alot of tim tracing wires and rewiring with better wire using solder and heat shrink tubing as well...
09-21-2003, 12:46 PM
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Re: H22a CX hatch swap wiring problems (Newman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Newman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the J00 (0 = 5-spd, 5 = auto)</TD></TR></TABLE>
09-21-2003, 01:02 PM
#13
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Re: H22a CX hatch swap wiring problems (cheezoto)
Ya, the ECU should have nothing to do with that. I believe that extra plug had to do with the ECU signal and control of the 4WS, and will not effect the performance of the motor.
Who did your Civic/Prelude engine harness?
Jumping the service connector is a little tricky. I saw that you are using a paperclip, sometimes that doesn't work, due to either the paperclip not being fully metal, or the material of it is not 'jumping' the wires that it needs to be.
What I`d recommend we do is to cut an extra wire about 3-4" long, then bend that into a U shape, put those and hold them at the service connector terminals, put the car into the ON position, and see what the CEL does.
Keep us posted.
Who did your Civic/Prelude engine harness?
Jumping the service connector is a little tricky. I saw that you are using a paperclip, sometimes that doesn't work, due to either the paperclip not being fully metal, or the material of it is not 'jumping' the wires that it needs to be.
What I`d recommend we do is to cut an extra wire about 3-4" long, then bend that into a U shape, put those and hold them at the service connector terminals, put the car into the ON position, and see what the CEL does.
Keep us posted.
09-21-2003, 03:30 PM
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Re: (laosb904)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laosb904 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my ecu looks like your too. but mine says (37820-p13-j00-555-100641 4W) is mine a auto or 5 speed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You have the 4ws ecu.
And to cheezoto I think you might want to change your fuel pump. Also you need your fuel pressure at 40 psi at wide open throttle. In order to do this pull the vaccum line off of your fuel pressure regulatoe and set you fuel pressure to 40. Then put the vaccum line back on and it should read about 32 to 33 psi at idle. also how old is your engine. I have the same problems with my engine dying on me too when I let out the clutch. My problem is bent valves so maybe that is your problem too. I hope you have a fpr cause what I just said would do you no good. Good luck
95 lude
You have the 4ws ecu.
And to cheezoto I think you might want to change your fuel pump. Also you need your fuel pressure at 40 psi at wide open throttle. In order to do this pull the vaccum line off of your fuel pressure regulatoe and set you fuel pressure to 40. Then put the vaccum line back on and it should read about 32 to 33 psi at idle. also how old is your engine. I have the same problems with my engine dying on me too when I let out the clutch. My problem is bent valves so maybe that is your problem too. I hope you have a fpr cause what I just said would do you no good. Good luck
95 lude
09-21-2003, 06:28 PM
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Re: (95 lude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You have the 4ws ecu.
And to cheezoto I think you might want to change your fuel pump. Also you need your fuel pressure at 40 psi at wide open throttle. In order to do this pull the vaccum line off of your fuel pressure regulatoe and set you fuel pressure to 40. Then put the vaccum line back on and it should read about 32 to 33 psi at idle. also how old is your engine. I have the same problems with my engine dying on me too when I let out the clutch. My problem is bent valves so maybe that is your problem too. I hope you have a fpr cause what I just said would do you no good. Good luck
95 lude
</TD></TR></TABLE>
WOW thanks, finally someone knows what the fuel pressure should be, its got an adjustable FPR and i searched forever on what it should be set at idle. it was set at 39psi at idle and i checked it when i pulled the vac hose and it jumps to like 43, so that could explain why its running really rich.
And for the bent valves i doubt that is the problem, i did a compression check and got 235 230 235 235. Also i have tried swapping in a hondata chipped p28 and i dont have the stall problem
You have the 4ws ecu.
And to cheezoto I think you might want to change your fuel pump. Also you need your fuel pressure at 40 psi at wide open throttle. In order to do this pull the vaccum line off of your fuel pressure regulatoe and set you fuel pressure to 40. Then put the vaccum line back on and it should read about 32 to 33 psi at idle. also how old is your engine. I have the same problems with my engine dying on me too when I let out the clutch. My problem is bent valves so maybe that is your problem too. I hope you have a fpr cause what I just said would do you no good. Good luck
95 lude
</TD></TR></TABLE>
WOW thanks, finally someone knows what the fuel pressure should be, its got an adjustable FPR and i searched forever on what it should be set at idle. it was set at 39psi at idle and i checked it when i pulled the vac hose and it jumps to like 43, so that could explain why its running really rich.
And for the bent valves i doubt that is the problem, i did a compression check and got 235 230 235 235. Also i have tried swapping in a hondata chipped p28 and i dont have the stall problem
09-21-2003, 07:16 PM
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Re: (poison)
ok set the fuel pressure at 31-32 psi at idle and it reads about 40 with the vac hose pulled. My a/f gauge still reads full rich, the only time it even moves from full rich is when you accelerate and then quickly let off the gas, then it drops down to about the middle.
I think i should just concentrate on trying to get the ecu to display codes first
i Used a 3in long copper wire with a prong on each end to slip in and jump the ECU, still no codes.
If i could just get it to display some codes i would know where to start looking for wiring problems. The previous owner tried to wire up the EGR and rewired the O2 sensor so those wires in the harness have been hacked. He actually cut the wires from the harness and attached wires from the ecu straight to the O2 sensor.
Do you think that a problem with this wiring could cause the ecu to not display codes?
I think i should just concentrate on trying to get the ecu to display codes first
i Used a 3in long copper wire with a prong on each end to slip in and jump the ECU, still no codes.
If i could just get it to display some codes i would know where to start looking for wiring problems. The previous owner tried to wire up the EGR and rewired the O2 sensor so those wires in the harness have been hacked. He actually cut the wires from the harness and attached wires from the ecu straight to the O2 sensor.
Do you think that a problem with this wiring could cause the ecu to not display codes?
09-22-2003, 08:59 AM
#18
Re: (cheezoto)
ya.. i forgot.. my ecu is just like that too... 4 plugs. jdm p13 4ws. used only 3 of 4 plugs... and i use a little wire to jump it. just some extra wire i had.. stripped both ends.. paperclip didnt work for me either.
09-22-2003, 11:39 AM
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Re: (cheezoto)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cheezoto »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WOW thanks, finally someone knows what the fuel pressure should be, its got an adjustable FPR and i searched forever on what it should be set at idle. it was set at 39psi at idle and i checked it when i pulled the vac hose and it jumps to like 43, so that could explain why its running really rich.
And for the bent valves i doubt that is the problem, i did a compression check and got 235 230 235 235. Also i have tried swapping in a hondata chipped p28 and i dont have the stall problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes your fuel pressure is right now. The reason that your af ratio gauge is showing rich is because your o2 sensor doesnt work after about 80% throtle. After that your computer goes off of your preset map signals from the ecu itself. It just ignores the signal from the o2 sensor.... hence the o2 sensor reads rich because its not getting any feedback from the ecu. Basically the A/F gauge is completly usless unless you get a wide band o2 sensor set up. Then you would get an accurate reading. Wow that is good compression, you definatly dont have bent valves. You probebly have a really hard to find and easy to fix wiring prob. GOOD LUCK!!!!
WOW thanks, finally someone knows what the fuel pressure should be, its got an adjustable FPR and i searched forever on what it should be set at idle. it was set at 39psi at idle and i checked it when i pulled the vac hose and it jumps to like 43, so that could explain why its running really rich.
And for the bent valves i doubt that is the problem, i did a compression check and got 235 230 235 235. Also i have tried swapping in a hondata chipped p28 and i dont have the stall problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes your fuel pressure is right now. The reason that your af ratio gauge is showing rich is because your o2 sensor doesnt work after about 80% throtle. After that your computer goes off of your preset map signals from the ecu itself. It just ignores the signal from the o2 sensor.... hence the o2 sensor reads rich because its not getting any feedback from the ecu. Basically the A/F gauge is completly usless unless you get a wide band o2 sensor set up. Then you would get an accurate reading. Wow that is good compression, you definatly dont have bent valves. You probebly have a really hard to find and easy to fix wiring prob. GOOD LUCK!!!!
09-22-2003, 04:44 PM
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Re: (95 lude)
The the gauge reads rich at idle half throttle whatever it dosent matter only time it moves from full rich is when it hits a fuel cut at about 5k or if you let off the gas while driving and coast while in gear. No Vtec and i cant check codes. YES i am positive i am doing it correctly. I have used several different peices of wire, copper and alum. I even went and bought a specific ECU jumper wire.
Has anyone had trouble with this before? Bad wiring or bad ecu? has anyone not been able to check codes? and what was the problem?
Once again YES i am doing it correctly
Has anyone had trouble with this before? Bad wiring or bad ecu? has anyone not been able to check codes? and what was the problem?
Once again YES i am doing it correctly
09-22-2003, 05:15 PM
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Re: (cheezoto)
you might have your signal wire hooked up to the wrong 02 sensor wire. See if you got a friend with another ecu and swap them out to see if there is any difference. Also if might even be something as simple as a bad o2 sensor. Do you have the sensor for the h22 or is it still for the civic? I canr remember if you have to change them. The whole thing about not being able to pull codes might be an ecu. You should be able to try to use any honda vtec ecu's... they will alll workbut anything otherthan the p13 is not good for the motor. It will work but you will probebly lean out fast so if it works dont go crazy and blow your motor.
09-22-2003, 06:08 PM
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Re: (cheezoto)
Hmm, well if you are not able to retreive codes (which I am sure now you are tryin to pull the codes correctly), that means that either the ECU or the Main Relay is not performing the sensor check (which it does when you put the car in the ON position) -- being the CEL comes on and goes off after two seconds.
If the CEL stays on after two seconds, you check the ACG (Ignition) fuse 15A which is next to the SRS fuse underneath the dash. Then the ECU and ECU back up fuse located in the underhood fuse panel (which you stated you checked).
If all fuses are good, then you can perform a main relay test by jumping certain pinouts (which are stated in the Helms manual), and if the main relay shows good then there is a wiring problem, or a bad ECU.
I will get the Helms diagram if you like, but I would definitely recommend trying another ECU.
If the CEL stays on after two seconds, you check the ACG (Ignition) fuse 15A which is next to the SRS fuse underneath the dash. Then the ECU and ECU back up fuse located in the underhood fuse panel (which you stated you checked).
If all fuses are good, then you can perform a main relay test by jumping certain pinouts (which are stated in the Helms manual), and if the main relay shows good then there is a wiring problem, or a bad ECU.
I will get the Helms diagram if you like, but I would definitely recommend trying another ECU.
09-22-2003, 08:08 PM
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Re: (poison)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm, well if you are not able to retreive codes (which I am sure now you are tryin to pull the codes correctly), that means that either the ECU or the Main Relay is not performing the sensor check (which it does when you put the car in the ON position) -- being the CEL comes on and goes off after two seconds.
If the CEL stays on after two seconds, you check the ACG (Ignition) fuse 15A which is next to the SRS fuse underneath the dash. Then the ECU and ECU back up fuse located in the underhood fuse panel (which you stated you checked).
If all fuses are good, then you can perform a main relay test by jumping certain pinouts (which are stated in the Helms manual), and if the main relay shows good then there is a wiring problem, or a bad ECU.
I will get the Helms diagram if you like, but I would definitely recommend trying another ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah could you let me know how to test if the relay is bad. I have a friend with a 94 EX coupe that i am going to swap ecus with tomarrow, I will also try and swap main relays too. Will his 94ex and my 92 cx have the same main relay?
Thanks for your help guys
If the CEL stays on after two seconds, you check the ACG (Ignition) fuse 15A which is next to the SRS fuse underneath the dash. Then the ECU and ECU back up fuse located in the underhood fuse panel (which you stated you checked).
If all fuses are good, then you can perform a main relay test by jumping certain pinouts (which are stated in the Helms manual), and if the main relay shows good then there is a wiring problem, or a bad ECU.
I will get the Helms diagram if you like, but I would definitely recommend trying another ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah could you let me know how to test if the relay is bad. I have a friend with a 94 EX coupe that i am going to swap ecus with tomarrow, I will also try and swap main relays too. Will his 94ex and my 92 cx have the same main relay?
Thanks for your help guys