4g4me

coNGRATS on an awesome thread. Finally, we can get some real information. I am soaking this all in. If we could just avoid the bullshit.

Jason kiDD

Again if anyone wants to know anything about the swap then just ask.. I guess one of these days I will put together a parts list and a faq sheet for those that would be interested. Also which would include different setups..

Might have some time to do that next year..

E. Honda

Good Post What kinda times can you expect from this swap?? EG or EK for example?

KENLUDE97

iTrader: (1)

Sweet Pic!!

b16b hatch

Poison.

What are you talking about the Prelude Type S has the ATTS and only caomes with ATTS thats why I asked. I know this because I have done a lot of research on the TypeS and I have the motor. I know the trannys are different and wanted to know if Jason kiDD used the Type S tranny or a Sir S spec tranny because I heard the Type S block deffers from any other h22 block due to the ATTS being in the way. Even the oil filter is in a different place then other H22s.

b16b hatch

Jason kiDD So do you have a Type S motor or a S Spec motor yes they are different motors they have different exhaust manifolds and different cams and different intake tubes. As the the Euro R motor if you have that motor the cams are different the intake mafifold is different and the exhaust manifold is different. If it is the Type S motor what tranny are you using the Type S or any other Prelude tranny with a LSD or what have you. Also can you take a pic of the oil filter on the back of the block to determine if it is a Type s or not if you are not sure what it is I know what to look for.

Jason kiDD

I believe it to be an SIR spec lude engine.. And the only major thing that differs engine wise is the tranny between the 3; Type S, S-spec, SIR. All of them put out the same output, have the same intake manifold, and exhaut header...

Now way back when when i bought it the seller referred to it as a Type R prelude engine. But I know that is just logistics because I got from the Netherlands..

EK22Tim

Well guys, I suppose I aughta chime in here too. Although, Jason, poison, H22EK, newman, etc. is where i got all my info, I've learned a LOT about swapping. I have a 96 hatch with a JDM H22, LSD equipped. I just got it running. It runs very nice, but I haven't driven it yet. I'm still getting that CEL from the stupid EGR too.
I guess it was not as hard as people said it was going to be.. I didn't find it difficult, but the wiring was tricky. I had to do a lot of assumptions and almost 'guesswork'.. It looks wonderful in there, and since the previous owner installed Si discs, suspension, and sways, I should be 'OK' for now, as far as handling.
Anyway, it bolts right in, except the shifter and wiring. I'm using the teg/accord combo axles and int shaft for now, and the HCP kit. I'll have it on the road as soon as I can afford tires and exhaust. I'll post more then. Oh, if you wnat my swap pics, check the thread in my sig. That's my baby!
There is this local guy who just moved here. He keeps tellin me I should have done a GSR, since the H is so heavy, blah blah blah, a GSR swap will smoke me due to the weight, blah blah.. We'll see bub.


[Modified by EK22Tim, 4:19 PM 12/20/2002]

b16b hatch

The Accord Euro R has a different intake manifold then the rest of the H22s they have single runners as all the other H22s have dual. Check the stats I told you I have done my homework on this motor. Also not to mention the Type S has a 11:1 compression ratio to the other H22s which have 10:1 or 10:6 for the SIR S Spec


[Modified by b16b hatch, 8:34 AM 12/20/2002]


[Modified by b16b hatch, 8:38 AM 12/20/2002]

Jason kiDD

Yeah I wasnt doubting you about the Euro R. But what is the engine code for it?? I could have sworn it was f20b.. Which makes it similar but different to the h22 counterparts..

b16b hatch

I think its a H22 may be F22 not really sure on it. take a look at the link it tells you the differences between the Type S and the other H22s http://www.honda.co.jp/factbook/auto.../pr96-011.html then go to http://www.tans.org/translater.shtml to translate it you gotta cut and past the web pages.

MPower332TI

I love my swap so far. Gotta get some serious mods though soon. such as big cams, intake manifold, race header etc etc.
Things i like about it...
1.Just popping the hood and being able to say i did it myself.
2. Nice torque. Pulls in every gear. No shifting down for hills.
3. I actually like the shifter also. I have the place racing box so it sits hella low and i like it like that. Shifts very smooth.
4. Good gas mileage actually. I have a walbro 255 lph and get 26plus mpg.
5.Sound of the engine. Just sounds alot different than a b series.
6. Makes peak power at alot lower rpm than a b series and more torque.

Things i dont like.
1.Axles\ground clearance. I like to have my car really low so this becomes a problem. Gotta watch out for big dips and bumps in road so that the header doesnt get ripped off.Im running 90-93 teg axles and they knock if youre turning really hard.
2. Massive amounts of wiring. You have to pretty much make your own harness here after all the extending and rewireing. Had to rewire the dist. also. As far as cels go i have one for a o2 sensor. Im gonna try and rewire it soon, im just so busy. Get egr every once and a while but who care. I took the valve off and made a plate over it.
3.The mother freaking IABS. Mine are wired for just vacum right now and they dont so ****. I am gonna wire those up maybe tongiht if i get enough time. When i drive a prelude you can fell this really well, very apparent. Cant fell the kick in in my car. I fell like if they are wired right it would pull alot harder.
4.Now the handling. Only thing i dont like about it is that it pushes a tad bit in a really really sharp curve. Nothing major but i could see it playing a big role in auto x(which i hate anyways)
5.The gear ratio. I hate it. Its way to damn long (compared to a b16) they just suck for qucik accleration. I want b series gear ratios dammit.

So thats about it .All in all im very happy with my engine. Im sure ill be really happy after i get my cams and other parts and tune it on the dyno. Im gonna shoot for 220 plus WHP.
to the H22 yo. (pic of putting the new clutch in.ACT xtss.I likes)



[Modified by jDmDxTuRd, 10:51 AM 12/20/2002]

cruzersi99

I don't own an H22 swap but I have driven one for a few weeks. This was a JDM H22, in a GSR.

I will admit that the power was very nice, and for driving straight the car was impressive.

However, I do have the same complaints that others have posted, vibration, etc.

I took this car on several canyon runs, and was really unimpressed with the handling. Granted with the right suspension it may work, but it would take a lot of suspension tuning and tweaking.

I think if you are building a drag car the H22 makes more sense, but if this is your daily driver, or road coarse car you are better off compromising power for weight and efficiency by getting a b18 or b16.

I think even more so than the difficulty in executing the swap, people don't do this swap becasuse the negatives outweigh the positives in most situations. The H22 was not made for smaller chasises. Hatches and coupes can only support so much power and torque due to weight, length, and limited rubber.

If you have done this swap and like it more power to you (literally), but on a road coarse or canyon run I think the without heavy suspension tuning I don't think a H22 swap will be able to compete.

Cruzer

0KStuned

So back to the handling and daily driving combos: WHAT AXLE COMBOS ARE WORKING, and at what ride heights, how low are you guys able to get your cars without problems?

Also, I want to see more pics of peoples shifting assemblies, from inside the car and under! I have seen people do it a bunch of different ways, I plan to just cut the hole bigger where the stock shifter went then bolt in the prelude shifter, but then I am going to rivet in an aluminum plate to keep dirt, moisture, heat, etc, away from the shifter, and from getting inside the car. ARE YOU GUYS NOT DOING THIS?

Very interested, lets see some pics, and keep coming with the info from people who actually KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE!! And of course, PICS lots of PICS!

Oh, and uhh... Edwards is doing my machine work.

poison

b16b hatch, I just talked to a few buddies of mine who also ahve the Type S motor, and originally they had the factory LSD and not the ATTS.

sorry for the misinformation...


[Modified by poison, 10:03 AM 12/20/2002]

yaya

[QUOTE

Drinks gas like a fish, but I will be diagnosing that soon enough

[/QUOTE]
i know what you mean but still......aaaaaahahahhahahahaha
drinks gas like a fish eh?

b16b hatch

So then they do not have the Type S motor then. They only come with the ATTS.

0KStuned

Ok, here we go on the weight thing again. All of my info is based on THEORY, as I haven't put my h22 into my eg chassis yet, my motor has been away at the machine shop for 3 months, should get it back next week,.. THEN I can tell you guys from experience.

1: The h22 engine weighs only 85 more pounds than a B16,... the B16 weighs 100 pounds more than the stock d15, now when you upgrade to a B16, the handling is still good, right?, there is no catastrophic weight increase?? I just find it hard to believe that the handling goes out the door when you load up just another 85 pounds over a B16.

2: The h22 tilts back, the B16 tilts forward, just theory but that SHOULD (keyword here!) mean that the majority of the weight of the engine is farther back in the chassis, meaning that it might help out the distribution of the extra 85 pounds. The problem is that since it tilts back, the bottom portion of the motor tilts forward, which is why there is an axle problem with the swap. I don't have experience YET so I am not sure what I am going to do as far as axles, but hopefully someone else can let us in on what AXLE SETUPS ARE WORKING!

Solutions: Ok, the extra weight in the front, here is how my car is set up, RIGHT NOW, I am just waiting for the motor! Put a carbon fiber (or light weight fiberglass) hood on the car and lose 25 pounds. Relocate your battery to the back, and not only lose 25 more pounds in the front but get better weight distribution while you are doing it, something that will be needed in a light weight EG or EK chassis. I put ground control coilovers with custom spring rates that ground control recommends for an h22 swap, and tokico adjustable struts. Also put a rear sway bar on, I put an ITR, this should help stiffen up the rear in the corners, which will make the car less likely to understeer, and the stiff springs/adjustable struts should make the car less likely to nose dive when hard braking.

Right now this is how I am set up, and this is what I think will make the car handle fine, but I won't KNOW until about another month. I will post a good thread on TRUTHS when I do my swap, until then, keep the GOOD info coming!!!

poison

I have DSS Stage 1 axles with prelude mid-shaft, never clicked or had ANY problems with them. I can turn as much or as deep as I want w/o any problems at all.

As for how low I am, my car is SLAMMED. I have all corners of my coil overs slammed because I like my car slammed. As for the angle of the axle, it's still in perfect shape and I've never had any problems thus far.

I have the HASport Billet mount kit and LOVE it.

here's some pics of my swap, it's alot cleaner since the swap and the interior shell is no longer teal can't stand teal.

337 GTI 1.8t

Ive seen h22 swaps in a delsol with stock tires/wheels, mil, and stock delsol exhaust run 14.5@ 96, in an ek hatch with i/h/e, ecu, cams, tb and slicks run 13.0, and turboed in an eg hatch, street car, run 10.70's with 593 whp.

Rotas are made in the phillipines, therefore are not JDM, arent sw388's made in Russia?


[Modified by GTI 1.8t, 5:46 PM 12/20/2002]

Jason kiDD

Okay to make things more clear..

Type S h22a = 220ps ATTS
S-sepc h22a = 220ps LSD
SIR h22a = 200hp optional LSD
f20b SIR-T Accord = 200 optional LSD

JDMdxTurd: You should really fix your o2 sensor its robbing you of power. And if you are getting a CEL code then its definately putting your car in safe mode. Yes the engine will still run and may even pull hard but with the O2 present and working properly you will be able to see a real big difference in performance and response.. Trust me I had a bad o2 for a year. Would only get a code after pushing the engine really hard and I would also notice random sluggish response always under 4k RPMS because the ecu could not calibrate for fuel properly..

Trust me on this one, I thought my engine had power before, but now with a properly working O2 it has really impressed me all over again..

Jason kiDD

Check my links with the pics so you can see what I did inside the car.. As for the hole I just cut it open more and popped the shifter in there. There was no real need for a plate because the shifter covers the hole completely. And the linkage travels inside the car..

MPower332TI

heres my shiter. Place racing box which everyone hates on. I like it. Nice and concealed and you only have to trim the hole for it to fit.

poison

Jason, did you cover up the bottom part to the shifter so the cab is sealed there?

I'm still lookin for mine to be sealed up.

MPower332TI

During swap..





[Modified by jDmDxTuRd, 11:42 AM 12/20/2002]