Vp Special K

i just finished doing my h22 swap into my hatch using the p28 with a jdm **** chip. When i was driving my car to go get my exhuast done it felt really sluggish and then everytime i stopped or took my foot off the gas my car turns off but if i keep my foot on the gas pedal i could still drive it, the car also feels really slow anybody have any idea what the problem is? could it be my timing? my distributor is brand new so i dont think it could be that the only codes that im throwing are a 10 and a 14

poison

The problem is you are throwing code for the IACV and the IAT sensor. Throwing the IACV code let alone causes major idling problems, not to mention in junction with the idle screw on top of the TB.

Troubleshoot those sensors and that will fix your problem.

AudioFuct

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vp Special K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only codes that im throwing are a 10 and a 14 </TD></TR></TABLE>

LoL "the only codes" he says. You pretty much answered your own question by stating what codes you're throwing.

10 - IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
14 - IAC Valve (Atmospheric Pressure)

Either something isnt hooked up our your wiring job sucks (maybe crossed something when you lengthened your IACV wiring).

Vp Special K

these codes showed up when i first started the engine but it idled fine everytime i turned it on and let it sit for the past week but it just started stalling out today, ill check the sensors and see what happens

Newman

When you have a code 10 and 14, that means you have the plugs in the wrong spot. Just swap the two and you should be fine, unless the sensor itself is bad (I've seen IAT sensors bad, and sometimes you may have to clean out the IACV with some carb cleaner). The ECU program itself won't cause the car to idle like **** or die, as we're using it on our cars and others on HT are also using it with no problems, but rather in enjoyment.

2trix

he wasnt pointing the finger at you guys newman..but simpley stating his setup. h22s are a wierd animal...get the codes fixed and youll be fine. my h22 threw code 10 only when at high rpms but after i replaced the stock lude intake arm with a 3'' short ram that problem has went away!? this should not have happend...i dont get it...

Vp Special K

yea i really wasnt pointing any fingers just stating what i had, i fixed my timing and that sort of helped it doesent really stall out but my idle is still rough

im_poor

does the rpm fluctuate?

Vp Special K

not really , but its far from being a smooth normal idle

im_poor

get the sensors working and you'll be fine.

Vp Special K

i thought i had the problem fixed this morning, i started it up and it was idling fine then i took it for a test drive and it did it again, this time after i start it up it dies right away, how should i test to see if my sensors work?

im_poor

get a helms manual, or do a search about iacv.

2trix

what year is your car!?

Vp Special K

its a 92 civic with a 00 h22 ive rechecked all the plugs to make sure theyre in the right location, i redid my timing to 15 i even tried using my cousins ecu out of his civic but it still does the same

Maintenance

Did you get rid of cel codes? And also check if there any vacuum leak from the intake manifold.

Vp Special K

i got rid of code 10 but 14 is still there, could it be because of the secondary butterflys? mine isnt connected so im not sure if thats a problem

Vp Special K

nevermind i rechecked my cel codes and code 10 and 14 showed up again, how do i test these sensors to make sure theyre working? anybody out in socal wanna come by and help ill treat you to lunch or something?! or is there a shop or something i can take my car to, to have it fixed? im in need to get this problem fixed as soon as possible

im_poor

where in so.cal i can take a look if close by...

Vp Special K

alright so i jumped the ecu to see what codes im throwing. im not throwing 10 anymore but now im throwing a 7 and a 14

im located in fontana next to ontario mills

im_poor

too far for me, sorry. have you taken the tps off before? or mismatched with the map sensor connector?

Vp Special K

yea i double check all the wires and made sure theyre in the right spot, does anybdoy have a vacuum diagram for the intake manifold? theres three nipples on top of the intake manifold but im not positive on where the lines go

AudioFuct

Even with those vacuum lines not hooked up, that will not cause your codes 7 (TPS) and 14 (IACV) to be thrown. All that will do is cause you to have a really crappy idle. Its gonna be your wiring somewhere man. The thing is, i dont see how you went from 10 to 7 though. IAT is only a two wire connector and TPS is a three wire. So its not like you can just swap connectors on accident or summin. Weird stuff...........

im_poor

if its throwing a tps code, i'd see if the tps is calibrated.

AudioFuct

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by im_poor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its throwing a tps code, i'd see if the tps is calibrated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that is a good idea, but if it wasnt calibrated it would have been throwing that code from the start, not just all of a sudden. Of course, there is the possibility that it may have come loose (assuming its a jdm h and its torx screwed down) and it moved a lil bit. But if its a usdm h, then there is no way in hell that sucker moved.

Oh heres that vacuum diagram you were asking for. Its not going to fix your problem but it will tell you where your hoses go.

who-got-rice

yo i'm in agreement with (im poor), there are two plugs that are the same plug special k, he is saying to switch those two plugs around, the map sensor and the sensor that is ysaully attached to your fire wall.